So I haven't become a member to any ford specific forum in search of advice/help/guidance for my recently purchased (4 months, 1500 miles) 2000 f-350 lariat, ex. cab, 6 speed, 4x4 DRW, simply because you folks already cover everything I needed help with.

Maintenance issues, procedures, products, etc.

Performance options, install procedures, etc.

Since the recent purchase I have wrenched quite a bit on her. Alot of performance/maintenance based things.

The truck is my side job hauler, around the farm hauler, toy hauler, concrete pick up, tractor hauling service vehicle...you get the point. She is expected to complement my 1990 chev. Cheyenne around the farm. The chev gets beat to hell, pulls stumps, goes to the dump, and the ford is my cleaner, cooler, work truck.

I purchased the truck for 7k cash, after the man wanted 11k. Long story short he wanted it gone and I wasn't going to buy something that clearly was driven, and not maintained.

Dont get me wrong, the body is straight, interior is clean, but maintenance was obv. lacking. Just by crawling under it and looking at the engine bay during my pre-purchase inspection I knew I wasn't going to be sold. But I saw an opportunity to capitalize...so I thought.

My friends were like, "what a steal, man I am so jealous", seeing as "NW Motorsports" sells similar diesels for 15k+ and some other 7.3s for even higher.......the owner of NW MS lives next/clsoe to me in Edgewood, you should see the house.....it has a grotto integrated into the pool....

But I knew better. I only bought the vehicle because I knew I was going to take the 4K I "saved" when I bought it, and sink it all back in the truck.

And even more.

As of right now....

Front and rear end links
Sway bar bushings
Drag link
Bilstein steering stabilizer
Front and rear diff fluid
Trans case fluid
Tranny fluid
Engine oil/filter
Fuel Filter
GPR
WP, upper lower rad hoses (dual alt type), thermostat, outlet pipe (3 bolt to upper rad hose)
CPS
ICP
Fuel bowl o rings
Passenger fuel line (sleeve elimination)
Serp. Belt
Idler Pulley
Alternator
Two new batteries
Denso Starter
Tranny Mount
ped. o-rings
Turbo to ped. o-rings


4in turbo back
International up-pipes
wicked wheel 2
EBP valve delete
HPX
AFE stage 2
Vulcan boot kit
SCT livewire TS
AIH delete
De-foil

I think that is up to date until last night.......

I come home from work. Wanted to start the truck to move it to adjust the steering box.

Brand new Denso starter, alt, and batteries.

Girl would just crank and crank and crank. Nothing. White smoke was apparent. So fuel is present.

Finally she started up. Ran fine for 5 min, literally perfect, so i shut it off. Tried to start again right after shut down, same thing, crank, crank, crank.

Changed out the CPS sensor on a whim as I didn't see the tach moving. No change.

Whats the deal? Oil level is fine. I tried to reload the performance tune onto the PCM and it was able to communicate and re-flash the tune. Still didnt start.

Ran the batt. dead from cranking so it is on a trickle while I am at work.


So here I am.

Solve my problems for me.

 

disconnect ICP and check for oil on connector


see if it starts easier with ICP disconnected too

 

Even though the ICP is brand new?

 

LOL! And welcome to the FTE potluck!

I'd skip the HPx. Often no noticeable benefit and 2 more places to leak.

ICP is genuine Ford or IH right? Fleabay specials often disappoint.

How many miles on the injectors? If a gazillion they may simply be tired, and then they resist starting when cold. The tricks to get them working are plugging in the block heater, and using synthetic oil. What oil did you use? Pretty sure the GPs are working?

You need more posts before you can post pics, but we all like seeing the proud papa's baby pictures.

 

Thank you for the response.

Let me clarify.

That list is all parts/activities I have already replaced/completed.

So the ICP is new, from Napa.

I already have the HPX installed.

Chevron 10-30 synthetic.

GPR is brand new and working. After going through 3 of them.

 

It seems to me that...

PCM isnt getting power, even though I have the WTS light?
IDM going bad?
IPR going bad?

If the HPOP was going bad then i wouldnt see grey smoke out of the tail pipe. Correct?

It doesn't seem to be a fuel issue. It must be electrical.

This is why I am here. I have exhausted my knowledge on the 7.3 and I read alot.

Thanks in advance everyone.

 

Easy/free is to swap the PCM and fan relays, and check the underside of the 42 pin harness where it crosses the DS valve cover. Rubs thru and shorts there.

Got a code reader that will work on a 7.3?

 

Do you have a way to check for codes and read sensors? Fuel bowl full?

 

Just checked and the NAPA ICP sensor appears to be a Dorman product. Not a great rep for quality and the conventional wisdom on sensors is OE only. That said, I'd assume the new ICP is working fine until proven otherwise.

Another thing to check is the tinnerman nut on the IPR, make sure it did not vibrate off and fall into the valley. Snug it up only, the nut is fragile.

 

As awlberninf350 pointed out: Glow plugs, especially if the injectors are a bit tired.
And knottyrope, unplug that Dorman ICP sensor and then try cranking it.
Also, you may want to ohm out the 42 pin connector on the DS valve cover.

 

I know you just changed the oil but recheck level and make sure it's full. Didn't see a new IPR on the list so it is suspect. As suggested check the a 42 pin connector harness and the nut on the back of the IPR. A way to read codes and sensor values would be a big help. And welcome to FTE

 

You're getting fuel which is a good sign. Does it sound like it is trying to fire at all? I would say plug it in and see if it will start after being warmed up. If it does, take a multimeter and ohm out your glow plugs (outer pins on the valve cover harness. They go GGIICIIGG where G = Glow plug, I = injector, and C = ground). IIRC they should be 0.1-2 ohms each. Either clip the lead to battery negative or get a helper to hold it there while you touch the connectors. It is a tad hard to see the terminals (especially when done at night like when I did it) buy is fairly easy.

I have also heard tell of measuring resistance between the GPR and battery to test all plugs at once, but I'm not sure if I trust that all too well.

EDIT: One other thing to try is to make sure the GPR is actually operating correctly. Take a test light and hook it to the large terminal (whichever doesn't light with key off) and have somebody turn the key to the 'on' position. If you have a light, you are good to go. If not, jump the lugs for about 10-13 seconds and start it. Then head into town to get that relay replaced.

 

First of all thank you for all the responses.

I came home from work today and started by doing a few things you all said.

Disconnecting the ICP and cranking was to no avail.

The GPs have been tested and are working prior to all this. The GPR was tested on both posts and is working. I turned the drain bowl valve and fuel is there and will fill in the key first position.

I know the batteries will need to be replaced because I am dumb but I pulled the PCM to see if there was any "apparent damage".








I got it out, and disassembled it. All looked to be in working order, but the most insane part was while I was down there something fell from under the dash and hit me in the head.

I gazed at it, and guess what. It was the grommet made to fit in the firewall for the PCM connector......




Someone has been down there.




I did see some moisture in both connector ends so I did my best to gently dry them out with compressed air.

Assembled everything again and went to try and start the truck.




Cranks but nothing.

I was able to pull these codes.


P0562

P01670

P0603

P0470


While cranking, I also looked at my Livewire SCT, whatever the hell and I saw zero movement from my ICP senor, or whatever metric it reads, puts out. Idk if that is conclusive of something?

I have not located or torn apart to find my IDM.




Thanks again for your help and input.

 

The fact that I was cranking last night and didnt get any white smoke as well as pulling up the P01670 code i am leaning towards the IDM.

IDM bad? code p1670 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

My truck is a 2000. So I would imagine the IDM is located in the drivers side wheel well correct?

 

Seems I may also change the EBP sensor and clean the tube.

I didnt realize this is so critical.