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Take the two lines out of the valve and hook them together. They are two different size fittings, but same size line. You may be able to find the correct fittings to couple them together, or if not, then cut the end off the line with the larger fitting, buy a short (8") piece of 3/16" brake line with the same size fittings as the smaller one on the valve, cut the short piece you bought to get the fitting you need then put it on the line on the truck and flare the line. Make sure you do a double flare. Then get a brake line coupling for those size fittings, and couple them together.
I am thinking about this myself. I am tired of my brakes. They also pull, even after new lines,calipers, pads, shoes, flushed entire system, etc. I am sure there is another issue, but deleting anything unnecessary is great in my book They are tight, but still pull to the left
When I push on the pedal I get a swoofing sound,could this mean that the booster is going out, if so if I get one at the dealer it will be about 250.00 new,or get one at parts store for 73.00 rebuilt.What do ya,ll think.
Up date,we'll I have replaced the brake master cyl,abs valve,vacuum booster and still didn't have any brakes,went to another mechanic,he thought the booster was bad so I took it back and got another one still brakes wasn't right,then we started bleeding the brakes again,seems like there was air in the system,must have bleed them for about 45 minutes,I told him how ya,ll said to check the abs valve it checked ok.long story brakes are better but a long ways from being right. Both mechanic didn't know what else to do,so I will go with what I have,just wanted to give an update.
Thanks guys
Jim
When bleeding brakes does it make any difference if the brake master cap is on or off,just seems like it took a lot of bleeding to get the air out.
I leave it off and cracked the lines and let it dribble for 15 or so then I tighten the lines and do a standard pump the pedal bleed. I always stand there topping up the resivoir and reading the forum.