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Originally posted by luckild if the truck had an electric choke,some where in the harness close to the choke should be the connecter.
Yes but that is for Ford's electric assist choke. It operates at a lower voltage (half the charging voltage) that comes off the stator on the alt. Aftermarket electric chokes need a full +12 volts to work correctly. I know I'm gonna hear it form people that have hooked it up that way but it's not right.
No really.... I'm getting confused now.
I will take pictures of what I got. And tomorrow I wil post it somewhere and if you all can please continue tomorrow, that'll be great!
Ok I'll wait, the post count on this thread is already getting way too high for such a simple thing, like how many posts does it take to change a light bulb!
OK, here are the new pictures. It includes some close-up photos so you can see the wiring I got. Please let me know if you can help me with these. 71 f100; 300-6
OK, here are the new pictures. It includes some close-up photos so you can see the wiring I got. Please let me know if you can help me with these. 71 f100; 300-6
WHAT!
I don't know about that... it's that same carb that was on the truck when I got it. What's the difference of a Chevy & Ford carb? Don't they do the same thing?
I was just jerking your chain a little, don't be alarmed... the Carter will work fine, good reliable carb. Ford's typically carried Autocraft or Holley carbs, Chevy's typically had Carter's. All will meter the air to gas ratio correctly and the truck will run fine.
Hey thanks for taking all the pics. Damn, you got idiot lights, that makes it a little harder. What I need is a pic of the back of the ignition switch with the wires and everything to show you where to tap off of. We're looking for switched power that is on only in the run position. Or, what about converting the choke back to manual and using the choke control?
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