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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 01:10 PM
  #1  
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How much cranking

I just got done with my injector cup job i rolled the motor with a breaker bar 360 degrees twice very little oil came out. This trucks been drained of fluids for about a month. I have everything plugged back in bolted up and all. I've been cranking for about 10 minutes off and on giving the starter a break. Also my batteries were about dead so im cranking off a 50 amp jump starter. Is this typical for having to work out all the air?
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by c mobley
I just got done with my injector cup job i rolled the motor with a breaker bar 360 degrees twice very little oil came out. This trucks been drained of fluids for about a month. I have everything plugged back in bolted up and all. I've been cranking for about 10 minutes off and on giving the starter a break. Also my batteries were about dead so im cranking off a 50 amp jump starter. Is this typical for having to work out all the air?
-Is the hpop reservoir empty
- does oil pressure gauge come up while cranking?
-Do you have 10+ volts on batts
-is ipr plugged in?

Dead batts and 50 amp charger probably cannot keep up with glow plugs on and starter running. Glow plugs are up to 10 amps a piece or more, starter can use 4.36+ kW
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 02:01 PM
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Proper battery voltage (10.5 VDC minimum) is a must as mentioned. Just because the engine turns over is no guarentee that it is enough. If abmient temperature is over ~70* - I think - the glow plugs are not in the picture at all anyway. If it is cold enough they will kill a low battery in no time at all. Also it can take quite a bit of cranking to purge the air out of the system after this kind of work. Just be patient and don't over do it and fry the starter.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 02:15 PM
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Just for reference I just had a motor that sitting with no oil at all and got new injectors running. It took 3 tries of cranking at about 20 seconds each and it started. The first 20 seconds and I did have oil pressure showing on dash.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 02:48 PM
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I just put 2 new batteries in it wow didnt realize how dead it was lol. So its really cranking over now hasnt fired off yet letting it have a break and i am showing oil pressure on dash when cranking. Ive only tried once with new batteries but im sure it'll get going soon now.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 03:47 PM
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Well she finally fired off hardly any smoke took it for a test drive and pretty much got scared cause it felt like it was about to sling something. If you punch it it revs up to 2500 rpms but your only doin 30 is this normal. I swear that things was shakin and rockin i couldnt get it back home fast enough
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 03:54 PM
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Its also throwing the p1316 code for the uvch. Will it do that until airs worked out or is there something actually wrong with the harness or injectors. It was idling smooth but started getting a rock to it since i drove it.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 04:03 PM
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P1316 means the IDM has stored codes. Run a KOEO or injector buzz test to see what codes the IDM has stored. Do this, then clear them and see what comes back.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by c mobley
Its also throwing the p1316 code for the uvch. Will it do that until airs worked out or is there something actually wrong with the harness or injectors. It was idling smooth but started getting a rock to it since i drove it.
Sounds like it has the air bucks, some air depending upon what was removed and installed may still be trapped inside so it will need to be worked out, IIRC can take up to a good hour or better with injectors and cups and that is actual drive time with varied Rpms
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 04:44 PM
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Think i mighta found my problem somehow ive skinned up the wires on the connector that plugs to the uvch. Now i gotta let the truck cool off and see what i do to salvage whats there or what i gotta do to put in a new one.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by c mobley
Think i mighta found my problem somehow ive skinned up the wires on the connector that plugs to the uvch. Now i gotta let the truck cool off and see what i do to salvage whats there or what i gotta do to put in a new one.
I would buy a special uninsulated terminal crimper and repair kit if you don't need to graft additional wire. This would reduce the number of connectors and potential for issues. The connector shell, silicone seals, and terminals will be included in addition to terminal release tool.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 07:10 PM
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Luckily a electrician by trade out of local union 505 i have everything i need for this repair job lol. And the pig tails are only 15 bucks each on amazon. I thought i had broke it but its actually just cooked to the point of the insulation breaking off.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by c mobley
Luckily a electrician by trade out of local union 505 i have everything i need for this repair job lol. And the pig tails are only 15 bucks each on amazon. I thought i had broke it but its actually just cooked to the point of the insulation breaking off.
Good to meet a fellow brother! Local 177 here!
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 09:30 PM
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Hey nice to meet you brother! I worked with a pile of Jacksonville guys at the TK steel mill here in Mobile several years back.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 09:48 PM
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Yes we get around, especially when the crash happened in 2008, we have a running joke that the symbol for our local should be a suitcase lol!
 
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