pulling engine and tranny F100
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pulling engine and tranny F100
i need to rebuild the 390 engine and tranny in my 1975 F100
i was wondering if i can pull them both out when the ac box is still in the engine bay, couse ther is very little room between that box and the engine.
better is to pull that box out first, but can i get it out while the engine still in the car?
what is the best way to go? i'm not gonna use the ac in the future, pump and lines are out already.
i was wondering if i can pull them both out when the ac box is still in the engine bay, couse ther is very little room between that box and the engine.
better is to pull that box out first, but can i get it out while the engine still in the car?
what is the best way to go? i'm not gonna use the ac in the future, pump and lines are out already.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Taxachusetts
I'd pull the A/C box out first...and then the radiator, bumper and front clip - I think it's only a dozen bolts holding it on. That way you can clean up the engine bay, inner fender wells and fenders in your down time.
If that's not feasible for you, consider the height the cherry picker is going to be at to clear the core support. She'll be a-swingin' in the breeze and you could do some serious damage to yourself if you're not very careful. If you have access/using an over head hoist you'll be fighting the trans hump while rolling the body out from under it.
If that's not feasible for you, consider the height the cherry picker is going to be at to clear the core support. She'll be a-swingin' in the breeze and you could do some serious damage to yourself if you're not very careful. If you have access/using an over head hoist you'll be fighting the trans hump while rolling the body out from under it.
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thanks!
of course the radiator has to go first.
i pulled those engines several times before, but i was wondering if the ac box can come outfirst , those fasteners are hidden under the ac box, and maybe from the passenger compartment?
and i do have a hoist.
of course the radiator has to go first.
i pulled those engines several times before, but i was wondering if the ac box can come outfirst , those fasteners are hidden under the ac box, and maybe from the passenger compartment?
and i do have a hoist.
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Radiator will definitely have to come out. I always pulled the engine itself. I did not like to pull the transmission attached to the engine as one unit. Using a cherry picker you have to raise it very high and could cause it to tip over. When pulling only the engine out, never took the AC box off of the firewall.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Central Florida
I like Filthy Beast's approach. If you're going to have a clean, painted and spiffed-up power train, you'll also want to clean and paint that engine bay. So, at a minimum remove the radiator core support. Yanking the whole font clip as a unit is even better.
If you can, remove the cast iron exhaust headers first.
I'd also suggest investing in a load leveler. I got mine from Harbor Freight with a coupon. After you have it a few inches up, consider removing the motor mounts (just two bolts) and even the motor mounts themselves. The latter can be very hard to do, especially on the driver side.
If you can, remove the cast iron exhaust headers first.
I'd also suggest investing in a load leveler. I got mine from Harbor Freight with a coupon. After you have it a few inches up, consider removing the motor mounts (just two bolts) and even the motor mounts themselves. The latter can be very hard to do, especially on the driver side.
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i have load leveler.
removing the headers first is impossible, the bolts are badly rusted, no spanner will fit.
maybe i pull the heads with the headers furst?
thanks for your advise.
removing the headers first is impossible, the bolts are badly rusted, no spanner will fit.
maybe i pull the heads with the headers furst?
thanks for your advise.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 324
From: Central Florida
I would not want to remove the intake and heads while still in the truck. These heavy suckers are actual hernia makers.
Re the exhaust, just make sure that there's no part of the pipe still attached to the cast iron headers. These point downward and will interfere with the frame-based engine brackets requiring a very big tilt in the engine/trans to clear them. So much so that you may even see ATF come pouring out of the transmission speedo gear hole. The load leveler will be a big help. Again, give some thought to removing one or both of those brackets that the engine mounts attach to. The passenger side is easiest.
Re the exhaust, just make sure that there's no part of the pipe still attached to the cast iron headers. These point downward and will interfere with the frame-based engine brackets requiring a very big tilt in the engine/trans to clear them. So much so that you may even see ATF come pouring out of the transmission speedo gear hole. The load leveler will be a big help. Again, give some thought to removing one or both of those brackets that the engine mounts attach to. The passenger side is easiest.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Ideeho
Remove the trans cross member so you can drop the rear of the trans. Jack the front of the truck up in the air. That should give you room to hang the engine/trans combo at a steep angle to get it out as an assembly. It will be tight but should come out.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Birmingham Al
I always pulled mine together. Pretty steep angle but still very doable. Some of the other guys are right though about pulling the front clip. Gives you a great opportunity to clean up the engine bay
Greg
Greg
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Central Florida
Removing the front clip refers to everything forward of the cowl in ONE piece. It's probably wise to have some mechanical and/or human help when you've gotten everything disconnected.
It's surprising how few bolts are involved. There are two big bolts that secure the radiator crossmember, two bolts securing the lower fender bracket to the frame in the front, two bolts securing the fender to the lower part of the cowl, two bolts that tie the inner fenders to a rubber bracket coming off the firewall and three bolts each side for the inner fender to firewall bracket. Be sure to label both side of every electrical connector that goes to the front clip that you disconnect. A simple matching scheme works well (A to A, B to B and so on). Optionally, remove the front bumper separately so it doesn't catch onto anything.
Then, pull the unit up and forward. Hood, fenders radiator core support, radiator, grille, everything comes off as a unit.
It's surprising how few bolts are involved. There are two big bolts that secure the radiator crossmember, two bolts securing the lower fender bracket to the frame in the front, two bolts securing the fender to the lower part of the cowl, two bolts that tie the inner fenders to a rubber bracket coming off the firewall and three bolts each side for the inner fender to firewall bracket. Be sure to label both side of every electrical connector that goes to the front clip that you disconnect. A simple matching scheme works well (A to A, B to B and so on). Optionally, remove the front bumper separately so it doesn't catch onto anything.
Then, pull the unit up and forward. Hood, fenders radiator core support, radiator, grille, everything comes off as a unit.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Taxachusetts
Yes, but as a unit....be careful on removing/disconnecting the wiring from the left side cowl area. Remove the plastic splash guard from the inner fenderwells and cab.....remove the 6 bolts (under the hood) where the inner fenderwells meets the cowl (3 on each side). Leave one in, but loose. Then, or first, remove the 2 bolts holding the fenders to the cab...one underneath, and one about 2/3 up - open the door and you'll find it..between the cab and fender.
Remove the 2 core support bolts/nuts after the bumper is gone. (I think I mentioned all the bolts/nuts and so on.........)
With another strapping young puppy on the other fenderwell, lift that sucker out and over, and, POOF! you're done!
flowney - you beat me to it! I guess all your finners work better than my two....hahaha!
Remove the 2 core support bolts/nuts after the bumper is gone. (I think I mentioned all the bolts/nuts and so on.........)
With another strapping young puppy on the other fenderwell, lift that sucker out and over, and, POOF! you're done!
flowney - you beat me to it! I guess all your finners work better than my two....hahaha!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Central Florida
Great catch Filthy Beast. Those two can be real buggars to remember and remove. Out of sight, out of mind. They will surely stop the show though.