Here's the best actual representation I have seen:

 

Hopefully it's clear that I have thought about this. Additional force on drive shaft absolutely translates into additional force on the clutch pack due to the gear tapers up to the point when the tires break loose - then additional force on the drive shaft will just cause the wheels to slip faster.


More specifically, take a look at an image of the internal gears and you'll see what I'm talking about. The differential pinion gear (a.k.a. spider gear) mates with the differential side gears. The teeth on both gears are pyramids. The more force that the spider gears put on the differential side gear, the more they are forced outward. The limited slip clutches are between the differential side gears and the differential case (a.k.a. carrier).


More force on the drive shaft = more force on the pinion gear = more force on the ring gear = more force on the carrier = more force on the cross pin = more force on the spider gears = more force on the differential side gear = more fore on the clutch packs. Hopefully this helps explain how the LS rears work. If not, I think there are some youtube videos that will explain this even better.

 

If limited slip is truly a torque related operation then the entire theory is bogus. One wheel on ice will not require any torque for it to spin. Therefore there would be no pressure against the clutches and no limited slip operation. I will look further into this but my opinion is still the same regardless of the operation. Limited slip is a waste of money. I had it once before on an E150 and that vehicle could get stuck on a single blade of wet grass.

 

The white-gold is a metallic paint and changes in the sun.

Full bright sun = tan/champagne paint look (like the white gold name)
Shade/Low light = golden paint look

 

Having watched one of the youtube explanations it is clear that torque is required to activate the clutch pack further than the spring load (which I previously thought was primary). But it also indicated that the transfer of torque was related to the differential in rate of spin to fully create the force which was generated by the thrust developed by the helical gearing. Normal turning creates little excessive torque to activate the clutches. I do not do burnouts nor do I accelerate hard out of corners nor do I apply large amounts of torque in the lower gears. I realize there is also a cone type compression for the clutches which may be the one you were referring to but, given my driving habits of light on the fuel when slow and turning I would expect the unit to last much longer than it did and perform much better as per the advertising promoting their features.

Thanks for explaining the torque effect but I am still not sure normal driving should account for having to tear down a differential and replace clutch packs as a regular maintenance item.

 

Has anyone else driven the 2017 F450 that can provide a second opinion - it'd be great if the F450 really felt as nimble and smooth as an explorer.

I just gave up guessing and ordered a 5K pin scale. Once I know the my pin weight, I'll be able to make a more informed decision between F350 SRW and the F450.

 

The F450 has a tighter turning radius than the SRW. The 450 rode much smoother than I thought it would. The only thing that doesnt make it that nimble is the dually fenders.

 

I agree with 05yuk.....turns really tight. I would definitely call it "Nimble" compared to older 250 and 350 SRWs. I only drove it for about 6-7 minutes...but you forget real fast that the big fenders are back there. Rode pretty smooth...felt like driving a Platinum Expedition or a Navigator. Pretty plush. I only really felt two bumps...when I went down into a ditch with a flat bottom...seam going down and seam going up. Other than those two bumps...It felt just as smooth as my 2011 F250 KR....even a tad better.

 

Can't wait to get my F450 platinum. Never had a dually but like the look