Hello, I have a 95 F-250 5.8L extracab 4x2 auto transmission. It was running fine (all gauges normal) then died all of a sudden while driving. Got it towed home and cranks but doesn't start. All the accessories (radio, blower) still work. I checked the battery after all the cranking and it was still at 12.5v

I checked the fuel cutoff switch behind pass kick panel, it's not tripped. I will check for fuel pressure and spark when I get a second set of hands to help me but in the mean time I thought I'd post the codes here and see what ya'll think.

KOEO:

56 MAF or VAF sensor voltage too high.

55 Open connection in keypower circuit or electrical charging voltage too low.

65 Elec. charging system problem occurred- voltage too high.

Continuous memory codes:

54 Air charge temp sensor signal voltage too high

25 knock sensor not detected during test

42 Exhaust gas oxygen sensor voltage always rich (high value)
does not switch

The only recent maintenance I've done was change the air filter. I have the 2 tube intake and so I don't think I have a MAF sensor. The truck has a mfr date of 08/94.

I have searched the forum (and will continue to) and watched the video by eric the car guy and will be checking for spark and fuel but thought someone may have already been down this road already. I checked all the fuses, they are good. I swapped the #1 and #2 relays into the #3 horn position and horn still works, is this a legit test of a relay?

Thanks in advance.

Dead in San Antonio.

 

Been reading the "weird no start problem" thread, I am new to fords so all these terms like pip, tfi, etc are new to me and trying to wrap my head around it all.

 

Your truck makes 3 digit codes, not 2 digit (unless you have a C6 3 speed non-overdrive).

I suspect your codes are actually 565 and 542. But to be sure, you should recheck the codes. Code 542 is fuel pump circuit open, FWIW.

 

The 565 will not keep it from running but the CM 542 will as noted above.

DTC 565 indicates a failure in the CANP solenoid circuit.
CHECK VPWR TO CANP
Possible causes:
-- Open harness (VPWR or CANP).
-- Damaged CANP solenoid.
-- Shorted (power to ground) harness.
-- Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

Canister Purge (CANP): Controls purging of the EVAP canister.
Evaporative Emission (EVAP): A system to prevent fuel vapor from escaping into the atmosphere. Typically includes a charcoal canister to store fuel vapors.
Vehicle Power (VPWR): A switched circuit that provides power to the EEC system. Compare "Battery Positive Voltage (B+)."
Electronic Engine Control (EEC): The system that provides electronic control of engine operation.

 

Lead Head, you are correct, (you probably knew that, lol) The scan tool is giving 565. I was wondering why the codes did not repeat themselves like it said in the book, and now it makes a whole lot more sense. 565, 565 instead of 56, 55, 65. Seems so obvious now!

This morning I tried to start the truck with starting fluid and nothing. I then hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the rail and am getting around 38 psi, regardless of which tank is selected. Also, I can hear the fuel pump energize for about a second immediately after I turn the key to on position, again with either tank selected.

So it would appear that fuel is not my issue. I was thinking maybe the computer was not firing the injectors for some reason, but it won't start even with starting fluid sprayed into the throttle body, so that's probably not the case. Must be a spark issue.

I still have not been able to check for spark due to not having a second set of hands.

I had the battery on a trickle charge overnight and now the continuous memory codes are blank, but it's still saying 565. After long pause, beep, long pause I get 111 twice, so saying system passed but of course it had no power to remember the old 542 code. Note: I'm in an apartment complex, so I had to remove the battery to bring it to the porch for charging. I couldn't exactly run extension cord across parking lot. It wasn't dead, but I figured with all the cranking yesterday, it could do with an overnight trickle.

So now I'm confused. If the fuel pumps are getting fuel to the rail at the proper pressure, where did the 542 code come from? And if 565 wouldn't keep it from running, what is?

Guess I really need to keep digging, researching, and get someone to help me check for spark.

I really appreciate the input so far, guys.

Thank you!

 

subford, I will investigate the CANP circuit as you suggested.

 

Ok so I watched eric the car guy's troubleshoot video a couple more times and read up on http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/...module-tests-2

I determined that coil was getting power but no switching signal. Went to fender mount ignition control module to check top wire. At this point I was unsure because easy auto guy says connect LED test light to batt positive then pierce wire with tip to see if it's flashing. I tried this with Multitester and got full batt voltage with key on and down to about ten volts while cranking.

Ericthecarguy says check top wire by getting ground on black terminal and inserting red terminal of tester into top wire and you should get an average of 4 to 5 volts while cranking if PIP is putting out good signal (0-10v square wave). While cranking I got right at 5 volts and the truck fired up. Ran for ten minutes then quit. Crank but no start. AAAAAAHHHHH!

 

Sounds like you might have a bad plug at the ICM if that is were you were working when it started.
But I have ran into this same thing a few times with the plug on the Ignition coil not making good contact.

I would go with eric the car guy video rather than the easy auto guy.

 

Are you referring to the plug going from the ICM to the coil? I suppose the plug on either end could be bad. So if the problem is intermittent it's likely a bad plug connection somewhere rather than a component (pip, icm, or coil) failure? I'm assuming these components don't work intermittently, they either work or they don't? Is that what you're saying? I was hoping to find a bad component and replace it. Now I'm not sure what to think.

Thanks again.

 

The Black ICM very seldom goes bad so I dough that is your problem.
The so called PIP sensor works cold and then sometimes will quit working when it gets warm.
The Ignition coil can be intermittent and again depending on heat but do not see bad ones much any more.

But as I said above the plug that pushes onto the Ignition Coil can lose connection to the coil post and I have this on two of my own trucks plus seen it on here a few times.

 

So what's the solution? Is there a way to ensure a better connection by cleaning, adjusting, using dialectic grease, etc?

 

You can use a loading test light (non LED) and check the next to the bottom wire at the ICM plug (COIL NEGITIVE) with the key on. This wire should have power from the Ignition Coil with the key on. If it does not you are not getting power from the Ignition coil and if the Coil is a good one and you have power at the (+) side of the Coil then the plug at the Coil is bad.
Check when it does not start and you have not touched or have not moved the plug at the Coil.

You can buy replacement Coil plugs at most auto part stores.

 

Ok I guess I am confused, maybe you can help set me straight. I believe I have the third icm in your diagram. I was under the impression that the top wire to the icm (#6) is an input signal from the pip that is a ground on and off. Also that the #2 wire sends this ground signal to the passenger side input of the coil wiring plug. And that the driver's side is a constant 12v positive. Thus the coil fires when it gets ground. Is this the case, how would the #2 wire be getting power with the key on? I'm not trying to argue, just trying to understand.

Thanks,

Todd

 

This is kinda true. The PIP sensor supplies and off and on signal to the ICM with the power coming from the PIP sensor.
The power comes from the Ignition Coil and the ICM grounds it. But with the engine not running and the key on this wire should be hot.
At the Ignition coil both of the small wires should be hot with the key on and the engine not running.
Yes it is.
With the engine not running and the key on power comes from the Ignition switch to the (+) side of the coil and goes through the small windings (PW) of the coil and with the ICM not grounding this wire at this point you will have power on the (-) side of the coil all the way to pin #2 of the ICM.

Note the pull up resister in the PIP sensor not shown.

 

OK, after doing much troubleshooting, checking all connectors and wiring, and hurting my brain reading schematics (I'm far from an electrical engineer), I have concluded that there is a high probability that I have a bad pip sensor. I was able to get the old one out of the distributor, but the teeth look bad on the circular plate around the shaft and I didn't want to press it back in and worry it that was going to come loose again. Plus by the time I bought new cap and rotor it wasn't that much more to get the whole thing, So I went ahead and got a whole new distributor from Oreilly. It'll be here tomorrow morning. Course I went ahead and got new plugs and wires while I was at it. I'll keep you posted and thanks again for your time and effort responding to my posts.

Todd