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Been driving all week long, watched my operating voltage drop until it hung out below 12 volts and the battery light was on. Was in a remote area and finally came to a napa, where I got a rebuilt alternator. Was fine for several hundred miles yesterday, then it too started acting different. All day today it would vary between around 12.2v with the battery light on and about 13.6v. It stays on one of those two for like 5-10 minutes at a time then switches.
Where do I go from here? I don't see anything wrong with wiring, and turning stuff on or off doesn't seem to make much difference at all.
I'm staying in a town with several parts stores tonight, but heading out remote area tomorrow, do I need to grab a different alternator before I leave?
I read too many of these threads when mine was going bad so I went with the 185 from Ficm repair. It amazed me with the number of members on here that switched out there alternators 2,3, or 4 times after getting bad ones from Napa, oreillys, etc. Good luck with the fix.
Turn on ignition for one minute to let GPs drain batteries a lil and turn off.
pull ground one battery and measure Volts on both batteries, if one is lower then they are fighting and causing alt to over work.
I have personally seen many people buy (and then warranty many times) aftermarket alternators on these trucks. I do not know what it is but the aftermarket alternators do not work as well on these trucks. I would suggest getting a Ford/Motorcraft alternator for your truck. As long as you have the single alternator set up you probably need Ford part number F81Z10V346EBRM (Motorcraft number GLV8666RM).
Check your wiring and grounds to make sure that's not the source of the electrical issues. I've had a "lifetime" alternator from Autozoo stop working properly before I could get out of my driveway. Ended up killing the batteries.
I took the truck down to napa where they tested it both in and out of the truck and it failed both times. I paid an extra $30 to get a brand new alternator while I was there, he even tested it for me and it passed, and has worked properly all day long!
I have not turned in the original oem for the $90 core charge yet in case I decide to have it rebuilt. I've got an extra alternator back home from a v10 so I'll probably just turn that one in.
we are seeing the result of commonly used parts for rebuilding and building new alternators being sourced from a certain Asian country where price instead of quality is important. The bearings and electronic components of the alternator are what usually fail. The auto manufacturers are more diligent about writing contracts for new parts and confirming that they meet oem specs. The manufacturers that are selling to the replacement market and the repair market are cutting expenses to meet those price points.