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That is not right it should idle pretty smooth, are you absolutely sure you have the injector and plugs both wired correctly for the HO firing order?
Plugs - Yes; double checked after removing the dizzy and swapping out the TFI module
Injectors: Well, its certainly worth double checking. tomorrow I'll remove the connectors, and test location and continuity with my volt meter.
I'll ask a shop or friend to assist pulling KOER codes, there could be something there.
IN OTHER NEWS: went to top off just now, figured 93 would be best (given aftermarket pistons, milled head, thinner gasket) and WHAT DO YA KNOW???
No ping! I immediately gunned it up the nearest hill, full throttle, not a chirp!
Still a little weak feel, so now I'll verify injector wiring, still want to put an actual (not reman) AL9 and associated MAF housing and meter in there, clear possible codes then I think a tune would be in order. I'm not out of the woods yet, but better off than yesterday. I'll report back with my results!
So tonight as I was warming up on my way home, I noticed a wet spot under the exhaust, took a whiff of the pipe and it seems I'm running pretty damn rich.
Got home, removed the plugs as you see below. Now I don't have the experience that a lot of you do, but something doesn't look right. #2 is a lot darker than the rest, and I thought I saw some fuel along the base. #6 is bar far the cleanest with almost no sign of anything dark or gray. Also #2 had a crack in the ceramic, so I'll replace it tomorrow.
I removed the 6" tube I had in front of the MAF think it could be an issue: no change. I tried to jump the two wires on the self test connectors to do a KOER to no avail.
Thursday I'll check continuity to all the injectors, and hopefully pick up a stethoscope to try and hear what they're doing.
I'm about ready to hand it over to a mechanic...I'm almost all out of ideas #2 is blacker on both sides, does that mean its rich? Stuck injector? Notice the crack in the ceramic, its getting replaced.
#6 has almost no color at all, not sure what to make of it?
Last edited by Glaser67; Aug 16, 2016 at 11:21 PM.
Reason: need to add pictures
Are those platinum tip plugs? I ran some in my truck for less than 2000 miles they caused pinging. Went back to copper core Autolite and no pinging for 60,000 miles. They platinum plugs self clean by the tip staying hotter and burning off deposits. Hot spots = detonation/ pinging
What do you mean you jumoed the pins on the srlf test connector to no avail? Did it go into self test mode?
When I noticed the single STI was missing, I traced pin 48 to the outer "outer" plug on the larger connector, (previous owner) so to pull codes off the reader I jump the outer plug on the connector to where there single STI is supposed to go on the reader for KOEO codes, but nothing happens when I start the car for KOER, so I forewent the reader and jumped the single STI connector on the larger plug to signal return on the connector to read the CEL, did the goose test and nothing happens...
Back to the plugs...I'll switch over to copper core but do they look OK otherwise?
I'm guessing (I know, "guessing") that it stays in open loop, otherwise wouldnt the O2 lean out the mixture if it were functioning properly?
Bottom line is I need to pull the KOER codes, need to figure that out next, change the plugs, and go from there
If nothing happens (no blinking check engine light, no anything) when you connect the STI wire to signal return, then either there is a bad connection somewhere, or the PCM is faulty.
I would verify that signal return has continuity to the PCM connector and that the female pins themselves are still "tight" so they make good contact with the PCM pins.
If all that checks out, I'd suspect a bad computer.
If nothing happens (no blinking check engine light, no anything) when you connect the STI wire to signal return, then either there is a bad connection somewhere, or the PCM is faulty.
I would verify that signal return has continuity to the PCM connector and that the female pins themselves are still "tight" so they make good contact with the PCM pins.
If all that checks out, I'd suspect a bad computer.
Quick update:
I switched to cooler plugs from Autolite; I think it helped somewhat, still pings at low RPM under load, though less often and "softer".
Picked up a stethoscope to listen to injectors.
No matter which way I bump the timing, it still pings somewhat, but when I wind it up past 3K RPM, it pulls better than I could have imagined!
So...with the "generic" re-manufactured computer, I think id be better off with a genuine A9L, espicialy since there is a tune in order. Hell, I'm not even sure the one I have now is from a manual.
I'm looking into the code 67, which may or may not be keeping me in open loop (suspect open loop due to rich condition) and may also keep me from pulling KOER codes.
I switched to cooler plugs from Autolite; I think it helped somewhat, still pings at low RPM under load, though less often and "softer".
Picked up a stethoscope to listen to injectors.
No matter which way I bump the timing, it still pings somewhat, but when I wind it up past 3K RPM, it pulls better than I could have imagined!
So...with the "generic" re-manufactured computer, I think id be better off with a genuine A9L, espicialy since there is a tune in order. Hell, I'm not even sure the one I have now is from a manual.
I'm looking into the code 67, which may or may not be keeping me in open loop (suspect open loop due to rich condition) and may also keep me from pulling KOER codes.
So I wired up the 2nd O2 this weekend and no change to rich condition. Although I plan on replaceing the capacitors on my A9L ECM, I rant it anyways, no change, same codes.
I found out through another forum that code 67 (neutral safety switch) is due to not pushing in the clutch, and could cause me not pulling KOER codes. I'm going to try that tonight and see what new codes (if any) are shown.
I may have missed it in the thread, but did you verify that the balancer hasn't slipped causing your timing to be incorrect even though the marks on the outer ring are lined up.
I may have missed it in the thread, but did you verify that the balancer hasn't slipped causing your timing to be incorrect even though the marks on the outer ring are lined up.
I have not: It's a new balancer with maybe 2-300 miles on it, so I doubt it has slipped. I'll check anyways...how do I find TDC without pulling a head off?
I have a spark plug that I knocked the porcelain and electrode out of and cut off the ground strap. Then I put a two inch bolt through it and tacked it in place Then round the threaded end of the bolt to prevent skurfing the piston top.
The easiest way to do this is to pull all the plugs unless you are Popeye.
Pull all the plugs and thread the makeshift piston stop into cyl1. Then, BY HAND rotate the engine clockwise until the crank stops and mark the balancer where the timing tab shows TDC. Then rotate counterclockwise until it stops and again mark the balancer where TDC is shown.
Now, I use a cloth seamstress measuring tape because it will easily follow the balancer, but measure the distance between the two marks and the center is TRUE TDC for your specific engine.
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