My daughter bought this truck new.She drove it 180,000 miles with only minor problems.She sold it to her son, my grandson for a work truck.
He put 900 mile on it and it started to misfire.Replaced one coil,I think.Drove it 2 more day and it quit.He had to have it towed to his house.
He and his father Inlaw worked on it,neither is a mechanic.But they are very good at tinkering.They got some advise from a couple of Ford mechanics.They decided it was the phasers or timing chain's.They replaced the phasers,chains,oil pump and related items.After installing these the engine would lock up at 1/2 revolution.They worked on it about a month at night.Could not figure it out.Now I get involved,I give him his money back and haul it 300 mile to my house.I started tearing it back down yesterday to check it out.It is locked up tight.Will not turn either way.
I was not sure about posting this,but decided to share.I am a 76 year old retired truck and diesel mechanic. I wish I was born a few years later so I could be a Technision.

 

Me too. For that and about a hundred other reasons. LOL

 

Ok,my grandson put the valve covers and front cover back on the engine.I have spent the day tearing it back down.Has anyone removed the right valve cover without removing the accumulator?

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ting-info.html

 

Thanks Steve for that link.I think I will just remove the chains and start over on the timing.I am trying to decide on replacing the lifters.At 180,0000 mile are some sure to be worn?
Is it better to remove the intake to get better access?
Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

@oldtrn


You may want to remove the chains for other reasons - but you can 'verify' that chains are timed correct without removing them and completely retiming the thing if that would help.


One confusing thing about the 3v modular engines is the odd number of chain links as compared to gear teeth. (61 chain links and gear teeth of 21/42). Thus, once the engine is turned over, all the chain timing marks will not align with the gear marks again for 122 full revolutions of the crankshaft. HOWEVER, you can check timing without regard to colored chain links.
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Set the crank Keyway at 11:00 o'clock (gear timing mark will be at 6:00 o'clock). For this purpose it does not matter whether Cyl 1 is on compression stroke or exhaust stroke. (Phaser "R" / "L" marks may be on opposite sides - but that won't matter).


WITHOUT REGARD to colored chain links: Count outer chain links, beginning with the FIRST link ADJACENT TO (BUT NOT INCLUDING) the link that is 'stradling' the crankshaft gear timing mark. Count THIRTY (30) chain links - EITHER DIRECTION - ON EITHER BANK. The thirtieth (30th) link should be the LAST LINK just _before_ (NOT COVERING or PAST) the "R" or "L" Phaser timing mark, no matter which bank you are counting.
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If that test is affirmative, the cams are timed correctly.


I am probably biased about changing lash adjusters and certainly think YES (because I changed them all along with roller followers. I am very glad I did).


I do not think improvement in access would be worth the added effort of removing the IM.


Good Luck

 

Yes the right chain is 30 links.I can't get a good count on the left.Now I have it on #1 TDC.The opposing cylinder[#6 is} on intake so it seems to be in time.
My grandson said it would lock up.I have turned it backwards one complete turn, and seems ok.
I was trying to find the problem before removing the chains,I am waiting my grandson to call me back now.I will start from scratch on the timing.
ON removing the cam,can I leave the gears on and loosen the caps a little at a time without removing the rocker arms first.
Thanks for the help,Doyle,Snyder Texas

 

Wow. If I was that close - I'd be for using mirrors or inspection camera or a itty biddy helper to climb under there and get a count on the inside or outside of that left bank. Wouldn't matter which side. If you got exactly 30 links between timing marks on one side of the chain, you're good.


If you must, (or choose to) completely retime it, please refer to the excellent drawings @EBC-150 included in the thread @steve(ill) linked above.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16439937


I am not comfortable commenting authoritatively about cam positioning otherwise.


??? Yes, but - why do you need to do that. I believe that most of your roller followers will be falling off all the time if you are doing it to rotate one or the other cams 180º. You can move the cams (by fighting valve spring tension) either direction enough to align the phaser timing mark a few teeth - as long as Bank1 & Bank2 phasers are on opposite phases ("R" up on one side and "L" up on the opposite side). You can correctly time it with Cyl #1 on TDC of either compression or exhaust stroke. Please read over the above link. Another post that might provide some helpful info is here: timing the 5.4 triton with cam phasers - Page 2 - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans Just to insure proper chain timing - the important thing is phasers have the "R" on top on one side, the "L" on top on the other, the Crank gear timing mark at bottom, and colored links aligned properly (OR 30 links between timing marks on both sides of the chains on both sides of the engine).


As always - Good Luck

 

I was thinking you had to remove the cam's to replace lifters and rollers.I just talked to my grandson .I think he has everything right.When he turned it over I think he was up against compression and thought it was locked.It is tight with good compression.
I sure would like to do this just one time.

 

I HEARD THAT!


Perhaps I misunderstood. That is exactly how I changed my lifters and followers. I removed the cams, removed rollers and lash adjusters. Cleaned lash adjuster wells and cam journal passageways with B-12 Chemtool carb cleaner / "Q"-tips and compressed air. Installed lifters / rollers (pre-soaked in oil) into place very gently, and then set cams / journals in place and tightened their bolts about 1/2 turn each untill they were seated. I knocked rollers off / out of place two or three times. But was able to do it. (I don't think doing this would REQUIRE removing the Phaser from the cam in your case). Just observe putting the cam back on with the Phaser in the same identical orientation.


Note: /// There are very-very small "groves" in the head and journal cap of the FRONT journal that oils the "thrust" ring in the front journal. I had to use a sharp knife blade to get the 'gum' cleaned out of that small grove. I think this is very important. Also - there is a very fine "screen" (just like that inside the VCT solenoids) inside the VCT Solenoid valve body. I believe you should check those and INSURE they are clean and all passageways of the solenoid valve body are clean ///


Hang in there. Sounds like you are doing good.

 

Thanks for the extra tips and reminding me to use the camera.I had forgotten about it.
With the 100 plus temp and leaning over the radiator,this old body is sore this morning.I am going to take a day off and think about it.Not in a hurry.Thankful for that.

 

Being a member of the 70-odd yr old crew myself, I understand the sore thing all too well. That's why it took me a week at about 4 - 5 hours a day to do mine. A lot of which was spent struggling to get back up on my feet after crawling under the damn thing to retrieve sockets or wrenches I had dropped.


BTW, I removed my radiator (at the added $21 expense for a 27mm open end for the trans cooler lines), and the Hood Latch, just to get the extra room and keep that damn hood latch from poking me in the fat gut. But you may be past that point already.

 

Believe me, I'm in my 40's....same thing. You really need a topside creeper to work on these things.

 

Hey EBC-150, does that thing come with hydraulic assist to get my *** up there on it? And does it have some attachment to help retrieve those dropped sockets that ALWAYS roll right smack under the transmission tail shaft? LOL.

 

I have something rigged up that does the same thing.
I have decided to rethink this engine.My grandson in Austin Tx was coming from work and the engine died,same thing happened about 3 days prior and he replaced a coil or something with fuel.
It would start and run just a few seconds.He towed to a garage and they checked it out and said it was the phasers.He towed it to his house.
I took a good look at the phasers today.They look good to me.I would like to know what the problem was before I put it back together.
Can anyone think of what else I could check?