So as Murphy would have it, here I am. Truck ran before we took it down and now that we are putting it back together, it won't start. 97 f350 7.3.

We took the front end off to do some cleaning and part replacements. Nothing major just the rad support, manifold, stuff like that. Nothing electrical but we did replace the steering column with a rebuilt one from columns galore.

So we had the truck together enough to try and get it to start to make sure..... Well that it would.

The transmission line was touching the power connection on the starter...... When we turned it over, it didn't turn over and it smoked a bit. Found the dummy mistake and fixed it. Now when it turns over, relay 2 clicks like crazy. We can jump the solenoid and get the starter to engage but it won't start the engine even though it's turning over pretty healthy.

We tested the two red wire plugs on the PCM and have 12 volts. What we don't see is the "wait to start" light when we prime the key. It shows "engine temp" and "fuel filter. The truck is not full of of coolant yet and we did install a new fuel filter.

Also, fuse 22 is good and the diode allows a one way current.

Any help/ideas on this mess? I'm leaning towards a PCM but good lord are they pricey.

Thanks,
Bryan

 

Check maxifuse #9; that's "upstream" of fuse #22. Do you hear the GP relay close when you turn the key to RUN?

 

I checked every fuse in that truck, all look good. With the key in the run position the relay will constantly click

 

I can check the GP relay tmw. It has power to it and my dad said it was working right but I'll double check everything

 

OK guys, I need to bump this up. We installed a loaner PCM and we did not get the wait to start light.

Background:
- Truck ran before we took it down
- we did not replace anything electrical directly
- we did replace the passenger side exhaust manifold, EBPS tube, AC comdensor, Front rad support, Steering Column (full replacement from columns galore), new oil dipstick tube, turbo boot, fuel filter, transmission filter/gasket, thermostat and housing, coolant and the e brake mechanism.

Current state of the truck is that its about 6 quarts low on tranny fluid due to the filter change and the coolant hasn't cycled through the engine. Full air intake has not been reinstalled yet.

What we tried to do was get it back together to make sure it would start and if it did we would proceed with buttoning everything down.

What happened was that due to the tranny lines not being connected up front, they were pushed out of the way and the line was touching the starter pole. As soon as we hooked up the batteries, it started to smoke. Found the issue, corrected it and when we go to turn it over we get no WTS light - it shows the "Engine Temp" and "Fuel Filter" light on the dash cluster but nothing else. Turn it over and all we hear is this clicking coming from the relay.

Video Here:

Really looking for ideas here......all fuses look good in the cab as well as in the box under the hood. I feel like due to the power surge, something shorted and i don't knwo what.

 

OK guys, I need to bump this up. We installed a loaner PCM and we did not get the wait to start light.

Background:
- Truck ran before we took it down
- we did not replace anything electrical directly
- we did replace the passenger side exhaust manifold, EBPS tube, AC comdensor, Front rad support, Steering Column (full replacement from columns galore), new oil dipstick tube, turbo boot, fuel filter, transmission filter/gasket, thermostat and housing, coolant and the e brake mechanism.

Current state of the truck is that its about 6 quarts low on tranny fluid due to the filter change and the coolant hasn't cycled through the engine. Full air intake has not been reinstalled yet.

What we tried to do was get it back together to make sure it would start and if it did we would proceed with buttoning everything down.

What happened was that due to the tranny lines not being connected up front, they were pushed out of the way and the line was touching the starter pole. As soon as we hooked up the batteries, it started to smoke. Found the issue, corrected it and when we go to turn it over we get no WTS light - it shows the "Engine Temp" and "Fuel Filter" light on the dash cluster but nothing else. Turn it over and all we hear is this clicking coming from the relay.

Video Here:

Really looking for ideas here......all fuses look good in the cab as well as in the box under the hood. I feel like due to the power surge, something shorted and i don't knwo what.

 

Did you try replacing the cam sensor since the short

 

We have not but i have been talking about doing it. Would you think it would be the cause of a no WTS light?

 

Yes it can. You should always keep a spare in the glove box too. Motorcraft or international only

 

OK. The engine won't crank at all unless we jump the starter solenoid.

I think this is the International on eh?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A2ZJQUVN43M574

 

relay #2 is clicking and from the owners manual, that says its the IDM relay. If the IDM were fried, would that prevent start up?

 

Isolate your batteries and check volts. You may gave fried one or both during the short

 

OK so we have some progress. Plugged in a code reader, and jumped the started solenoid, truck runs. Pull out the code reader and the truck dies.

Not sure if this is a ground issue or not.....any thoughts as to why?

 

That video with the relay clicking, was that with the key in RUN or in START?

When you see the ENGINE TEMP and FUEL FILTER lights, is that with the key in RUN or in START?

Have you tested the ignition switch? Are you sure the key cylinder is putting the ignition switch into its proper positions based on the key positions?

 

The relay clicking was when it was in the run position, start as well. I'll have to double check the lights though. The ignition is new, part of the new, rebuilt column. Doesn't it only go in one way?

The truck will now start and run but the code reader needs to be plugged in for whatever reason. Pull it out and the truck dies.

Ideas?