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If you have 15" wheels and a decent gap between them, you can upgrade to 16" ones and run E rated LT tires which is what most do. Also pay attention to the fender skirts as well. Places like Tredit Tire have all kinds of wheels at very reasonable prices. In another thread on here, there is a few more wheel places mentioned.
Rob has the best ones of all. G114s on 17.5" wheels. He has all the load range he will ever need at the same diameter as some of use with G 16" wheels and tires.
This year I had 3 blow outs on the Michelin XPS on my 13,000 lbs GN horse trailer. Tires had plenty of tread left, But were all 5 years old. ( 2011 stamp) I pulled the 4th tire off and made it my spare. So I have all new tires on the ground right now. Two are Sailuns and two are Trail King. ( just because of where I had to buy them when I had blow outs)
The Michelins that blew out were in March and April before the summer heat and were about 50 miles in the various trips when they blew. The tires looked so good and held air just fine, so I had not thought about buying new tires while the existing ones had so much tread left. Lesson learned, Any tire 5 years old needs to go.
Get it weighed then adjust the pressure for the job. Or to be safe run them at full cold max PSI. Better to run it at Max then under as you'll have a melt down fast.
This year I had 3 blow outs on the Michelin XPS on my 13,000 lbs GN horse trailer. Tires had plenty of tread left, But were all 5 years old. ( 2011 stamp) I pulled the 4th tire off and made it my spare. So I have all new tires on the ground right now. Two are Sailuns and two are Trail King. ( just because of where I had to buy them when I had blow outs)
The Michelins that blew out were in March and April before the summer heat and were about 50 miles in the various trips when they blew. The tires looked so good and held air just fine, so I had not thought about buying new tires while the existing ones had so much tread left. Lesson learned, Any tire 5 years old needs to go.
As described by a tire manufacturer, you should replace the other tire on the side of the blowout. When the blowout occurs you severely overload and stress the remaining tire.
When I put the S637's on I inquired about the psi rating for my wheels. They look exactly like a wheel rated at 80psi and also the same as one rated at 110psi. I asked Jayco and two manfacturers of wheels that had the same design. Both said they were their wheels and one said 80 & the other told me 110, Jayco said 110. I could find no marking inside the wheel to confirm the 110 but already had the tires by then. So far so good. I try not to cut the trailer too tight on pavement to lessen the side loading on the wheel. I've been keeping an eye on them for cracks.
What is everybody running the S637's at for pressure? I run 100psi right now.
Mark I Eyeball says I have about a 1" gap between the existing 15" tires. That's not looking good for upgrading to 16".
Look on tirerack.com for tire sizes. I went from a st tire to LT tire. Had to figure out size that would fit as I had the same 1 inch gap. Went wider but same circumference .
I have a really hard time believing that a 16" Trailer wheel rated at 80PSI couldn't easily (without any safety concerns) handle a 110PSI tire (or greater) given the fact that cardboard boxes generally have a PSI rating STARTING at 125PSI..... a freakin Cardboard box. A Box Broker Inc. - Box FAQS
I have a really hard time believing that a 16" Trailer wheel rated at 80PSI couldn't easily (without any safety concerns) handle a 110PSI tire (or greater) given the fact that cardboard boxes generally have a PSI rating STARTING at 125PSI..... a freakin Cardboard box. A Box Broker Inc. - Box FAQS
I'm guessing but doesn't it have to do with the rim if it's rated to handle that amount of pressure?
https://www.etrailer.com/question-48956.html
"expert response" in above link.
If you check your current wheels you should be able to find the rating. On alloy wheels, it is usually stamped into the metal on the back of the wheel somewhere. It can be difficult to find though, especially on a dirty wheel.
When I bought a spare for my trailer last week I questioned the guy at Discount Tire if the wheel was strong enough to handle the GVWR of my trailer. He said it was a matter of the tire not the wheel. I remain sceptical on that. I suspect you could find some cheap wheel that isn't as strong as others.
It's my understanding, and I could be wrong. Any time you go over 80 psi, You go to a metal valve So rims rated at 110 psi will not have rubber valves.
But valves are easy to change and my 80 psi wheels have metal valves.
The metal valve studs are a must have. So many tire problems, especially losing tires while driving, are a result of rubber valve stems being dry rotted and leaking while you're driving.
I asked the tire shop when they mounted the S637's about full metal stems the same as what's on the truck. They told me the metal cored rubber stems will handle the 110psi. Don't know if this is true or not but so far no issues with 10,000km or so on them.
I prefer the bolt in metal stems so there is no in motion flex when using threaded on external TPMS sensors. As to the Goodyear vs. Sailun comparo, one good point that was made earlier is the trailer damage warranty that GY offers. Another thought is that while anecdotal, Dave (dbilson) works in the tire industry and has stated in the past he sees a lot more Sailun failures than GY 614.
I asked the tire shop when they mounted the S637's about full metal stems the same as what's on the truck. They told me the metal cored rubber stems will handle the 110psi. Don't know if this is true or not but so far no issues with 10,000km or so on them.
I'm sure they work fine, the issue I've had is how long they maintain their integrity. After a few years rubber can crack, harden, etc... And this is when I've had issues. The ones that are metal that actually have a nut inside the tire against the rim are the ones that last and like Rodney said, don't fatigue from the added weight and stress of tpms systems.
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