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#1
Join Date: Aug 2007
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Camber question
I have a '95 F350 CC DRW 2WD truck. 242K on the odometer. The truck is heavily used on highway miles, with little city or off road driving.
The truck has started to wear the outsides of the tires bad recently. It's never been aligned in the time I've owned it (120K at the time). Poking around the front end, I'm finding a bad right outer tie rod and left upper ball joint. Everything else is very tight. The I-beam and radius arm bushings feel tight when unloaded and pried on hard. They also appear to be in good shape. There is no driveability issue, it tracks straight and steers nice.
I'm figuring on replacing all four ball joints. I'm leaning towards doing all tie rods (that right inner is big $$$$, ouch!).
The part I don't get is I can visually see positive camber and why it's wearing on the outside. Why? The only thing that should cause positive camber would be lower ball joints. Bad bushings, bad upper ball joints and tired springs all should cause negative camber. What I'm worried about is that I'm missing something and the money spent on alignment will be wasted and I'm not going to fix the tire wear issue. Anything I should be replacing?
The truck has started to wear the outsides of the tires bad recently. It's never been aligned in the time I've owned it (120K at the time). Poking around the front end, I'm finding a bad right outer tie rod and left upper ball joint. Everything else is very tight. The I-beam and radius arm bushings feel tight when unloaded and pried on hard. They also appear to be in good shape. There is no driveability issue, it tracks straight and steers nice.
I'm figuring on replacing all four ball joints. I'm leaning towards doing all tie rods (that right inner is big $$$$, ouch!).
The part I don't get is I can visually see positive camber and why it's wearing on the outside. Why? The only thing that should cause positive camber would be lower ball joints. Bad bushings, bad upper ball joints and tired springs all should cause negative camber. What I'm worried about is that I'm missing something and the money spent on alignment will be wasted and I'm not going to fix the tire wear issue. Anything I should be replacing?
#2
Positive Camber
When the bottom of the tire is more inwards and the top is out, that is referred to as positive camber. Positive camber wears the outside of the tires at a rapid rate. Positive camber is generally the result of a bad alignment or wearing ball joint.
Hopefully a ball joint replace will fix it but my moms E250 needed the ibeam heated and bent to correct her camber.
When the bottom of the tire is more inwards and the top is out, that is referred to as positive camber. Positive camber wears the outside of the tires at a rapid rate. Positive camber is generally the result of a bad alignment or wearing ball joint.
Hopefully a ball joint replace will fix it but my moms E250 needed the ibeam heated and bent to correct her camber.
#4
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Tow some but not as much. Once in a while I'll borrow the inlaws tractor. That's nearly 14k including the trailer.
But will that persist with the empty truck? I can understand wear on the tires when towing with the front end light. But why the positive camber while empty? It's so bad I can see it.
#5
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Isn't that SOP on a kingpin? I thought the kingpin axles were camber adjusted by bending the axle beam. With a ball joint they have a whole bunch of range of motion. If it was that bad I'd suspect that there was major problems with the frame or something was really bad.
#7
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Gotcha... lots of time light on the front coils lets them "grow". Makes sense to me.
Rotation is a PITA on a DRW with aluminum wheels. The fronts are polished and tapered on one side, rear outers are polished and tapered on the other side, insides are steel. Rotation means dismount and re-mount.
What I do is throw two new tires on at a time on the back end and move the most worn rear set up front. That keeps the dual pairs matched from the start.
Rotation is a PITA on a DRW with aluminum wheels. The fronts are polished and tapered on one side, rear outers are polished and tapered on the other side, insides are steel. Rotation means dismount and re-mount.
What I do is throw two new tires on at a time on the back end and move the most worn rear set up front. That keeps the dual pairs matched from the start.
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