Any advice or write ups on replacing the front flexible brake hoses?

 

hit them connections with PBLaster or ( ATF and acetone ) a few days prior and the bleeder screws too

 

I just did hoses all hoses on my SD. They are easy, just make sure to get new copper washers for banjo bolts. There are two per caliper. The hose junctions at the hard lines are flared so they do not need any washers.

Also be sure to have enough brake fluid as you will make a huge mess and make sure the bleeders can be moved before doing anything as you will need to bleed air out of system

 

Exactly.... I replaced both front calipers and pads as well as the hoses and rear shoes and cylinders in the spring. I also replaced the steel line to the splitter from the frame rail with Ni-Cop. That line is prone to failure from road blast and corrosion.

I have a good friend and hunting buddy who cut his teeth on Ford pickups at a private garage. He told me that the front lines after a number of years, the inner surface of the hose flakes off and when you apply the brakes the fluid exerts pressure on the pads and the brakes work fine but... When you release the pedal, the flakes in the brake hoses restrict the backward flow of fluid and the caliper pads hang on the rotors...

Exactly my scenario. Once I replaced the lines (with new loaded calipers), the hang problem vanished. he told me, the only thing that retracts the pucks (and pads) is the tension exerted by the puck seals. True or false, I have no idea, but replacing the lines cured the issues.

I soaked my fittings with P Blaster 3 days in advance and every day leading up to disassembly, I doused them again. Came right apart, no issue. I gravity bled the rears and vacuum bled the calipers (because it's easy to get air entrapment at the top of the caliper casting)... Get yourself a couple quarts of brake fluid and don't get any on the body paint.

Got my loaded calipers, shoes and back cylinders from Rock Auto. Ni-Cop came from NAPA and a flaring tool (had to add a coupling on the frame rail) from Amazon (got a good and expensive Rigid Flaring tool).

has real brakes again.

 

What about the clip?I tried pulling it off yesterday, but was unsuccessful. Any tips, tricks, ideas?

 

Soak it with PBlaster as well and take a small cold chisel and small hammer and tap it off. It's a PITA but doable. The necked part of the hose will be corroded so it takes some PBlaster to get it loose.

The whole operation is largely dependent on soaking everything with PBlaster, or Kroil or Liquid Wrench or acetone and ATF.

It's not a hurry up job and I myself did some cussing. One thing I did and I'm glad is, I lined the inner fender wells (between the frame rails and the plastic inner fenders) with rubber truck mudflaps cut to fit and secured with OEM type push in fasteners. That kept most of the toad gunk off the hose ends where they attach to the brake pipes.

I've seen more than a few cabs (in late model trucks pulled for engine work) and it's amazing how much the road spray (and road salt) eats up everything under the fenders behind the inner fender wells. It's ugly. Not an issue on my truck, it's all covered and has been since new in 1997.

One tip I might add, is, when you do get it apart, the brake pipe will want to retract in. You need to hang on to it will retract and become another issue...(needle nose pliers and a bit more cussing)...

 

Additionally, before you put on the new hoses, fit the clips to the recess first and make sure they go on ok. I had to enlarge mine just a tad to get them to fit properly. Because my truck is lifted 6 over stock I also bent the brackets that retain the hoses to the brake pipes a bit to add some wiggle room.

 

nobody using stainless lines these days?

 

Yes they are using braided stainless hose, I don't remember the information on them but someone should ring in soon with it. I recall seeing something on a kit that included all the necessary hoses.

 

OK thanks!

 

I used stainless lines from crown performance.LinkAlthough they don't list them on line, if you call them they have the rear axle to caliper lines as well.

 

One trick leaned from Old Timers is,always tighten brake flared fittings before loosening,that can make life easier on rusty/stubborn connections.

 

Here ya go:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...350-super-duty

I think they will work for F250's as well. You may want to call.

If you replace pads, you will like EBC yellows. You'll never buy anything else after the first go.

 

I replaced mine with rubber hoses from NAPA. Five years and no issues.

 

My 1997 350 finally needed hoses this spring... lets see, that is 17 years. Not a bad life span 7 buck each hoses.

Can't see stainless at 3 times the price.

I'm an EBC dealer (motorcycle brake parts) and I use Raybestos Pads.