suspension lift
suspension lift
ive been considering a suspension lift to clear 33s(35's?) but i dont wanna have to go through extending my driveshaft(s). what s the bigggest lift i could use for that, and any recomendation on a lift?
Thx
Tim
Thx
Tim
suspension lift
I had a 4" on "greystreak" with no need to deal with driveshaft extending. 6" should present no problems either. Just make sure to follow the lift manufacturers instructions as far as rear axle shims are concerned. I just had to reused the stock shims with the new rear leaf springs to keep driveshaft geometry in line. According to most manufacturers, you will need 4" to clear 33's and 6" to clear 35's.
suspension lift
my lift came with a block lift in the rear( soon to be replaced)it is a six inch lift no problems on the driveshaft at either end.just used the rear shims that were there to begin with.the new blocks do have a taper to them to also help with DS angle
suspension lift
I have a 6" Skyjacker lift on my 84 Bronco, and did not need to extend/lengthen the driveshafts. I also got lifted rear spring packs, and used a 1" block to level the rear. Depending on the brand of kit you get, an extra 4- or 6- degree shim MAY be needed to line up the rear axle pinion yoke and driveshaft if you use the blocks. Extended radius arms for the front end are worth the extra cost, too.
suspension lift
thx guys. im wanting to go 33s but i dont wanna spend like $1000 on a lift. ill go for a lift for under $600.......any suggestins for that. did any of you do it your self and if you did was it hard or easy or time taking(kinda wanna set aside a week-end to do it)
Thx for the help
Tim
Thx for the help
Tim
suspension lift
I installed my 4" suspension lift and it took me and another friend a weekend to get it done. We spent most of the first morning drilling the rivets out of the radius arm brackets (the drill needed to be replaced). The rest was pretty smooth. Make sure you get the new hardware tight because the truck will shake like crazy if it loosens up after a 100 or so miles. I know from experience. Get under there and tighten the new hardware every 100 miles for the first 1000. Better safe than scared! I would recommend spring compressors to ease the installation of the new coil springs. You will also need a drop pitman arm and an alignment once installation is complete. I know a few guys who overlooked the alignment and went through their new tires much quicker than they should have. A floor jack and a farm jack work well together to raise the body/frame from the axles. Good luck.
KJ
KJ
suspension lift
hey 90EBBronco where did you get your rough country lift from and how well do you like? Also what all came with the kit when you ordered it? i was just looking at this brand earlier today at JCWhitney I believe, but cannot determine what all comes with the kit. Your help would be greatly appreciated.
thanx
thanx
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suspension lift
I got my lift from JCWhitney also. It came with drop radius arm brackets, drop brackets for the front IFS, coil springs, block spacers and u bolts, and new hardware for all of the listed parts. I had to get shocks and a drop pitman arm to complete the installation. The shocks ran me around $180 for all 6 (dual front shocks) and the pitman arm was under $50. I think the quality of the lift is excellent for the price. I don't necessarily like the blocks in the back and would much rather have add-a-leafs or new leaf springs and extended radius arms are much better than dropping the old ones. You get what you pay for. I got my entire lift for under $1000 and that is cheap compared to some lift kits out there. Once installed I removed the torsion/sway bars to allow for the added articulation that a lift provides. I installed it over a year ago and have put it to the test on many occasions and haven't had any problems at all. Just be sure to tighten, tighten and retighten the new hardware for the first 1000 miles. The new brackets will settle and the hardware does loosen up a bit. I hit a set of railroad tracks doing around 55mph the day after I finished the installation and I just about got shook off the road. You have to break it in just like anything else. If you have any other questions, feel free to post and I will receive an email that a new reply has been added. Good luck!
KJ
KJ
suspension lift
If your going with a 4incher then you shouldn't have to worry about this but the only problem that comes up with the 6 in lift is the fact that the front driveshaft ends up being very close to the front of the t-case skidplate and definitely scrape if the driver side wheel is at full droop. Not a big problem just find a good grinder.
suspension lift
well i took a look a jc whiteny.......the rough country 4" sounds like what im in for. 379.95 for a 4 in lift -shocks....not to shabby. any thoughts/comments on RC lift? BTW im planning on running Super Swamper 33x13.50 TSB's, you guys got any comments on those also?
Thx for the input
Tim
Thx for the input
Tim
suspension lift
The TSL Super Swampers won't last 20K miles if you drive on the road very much. They're good in mud though. The RC lift should be O.K. as long as you don't run the Baja 1000 or treat it too rough. Fine for weekend fun.
suspension lift
You might check out Tuff Country.
http://www.tuffcountry.com
They are in Utah, so they know what "tough" country is like. Several kits to choose from in various prices. JC whitney sells them as well. The "economy" 2.5 lift is drop brackets and coild spring spacers rather than new coils. Not a ton of parts, but enough to do the job.
http://www.tuffcountry.com
They are in Utah, so they know what "tough" country is like. Several kits to choose from in various prices. JC whitney sells them as well. The "economy" 2.5 lift is drop brackets and coild spring spacers rather than new coils. Not a ton of parts, but enough to do the job.
suspension lift
There was a 4" Tuff Country lift on my truck when I bought it. After several failed attempts to get the alignment fixed, I finally ended up replacing the axle drop brackets with ones from Superlift. The alignment problem was gone. I also had to have the front crossmember welded back together because it was cracked right above the driver's side bracket. I had them weld in a brace between the two axle brackets so they won't ever move around again.
My point is, you tend to get what you pay for. Buy strictly on price, and you'll more than likely have problems.
My point is, you tend to get what you pay for. Buy strictly on price, and you'll more than likely have problems.
suspension lift
i also didn't like the hardware.i replaced every bolt i could with 1/2 inch grade eight bolts and lock nuts.i did mine on a lift, but not everybody has access to one.i had a problem with mine that no one at trail****** would or could answer right away. so i e-mailed rough country, answered me the next day, with a corret answer.
suspension lift
i was looking at some photos on i think it was 90eb bronco deal he has 35's on a 4 inch lift is there a body lift involved or cutting to make that happen....I am having a 4" lift done on tommorow and i would like to put 35's but it seems to me that nothing but 33's am i getting sold on a 6" lift?





