Is there a visual way to tell if a 6.0 has been bullet proofed? Or am I better off going backwards to a 7.3?

 

You can see a few of the studs if it has been studded you can also see if it still has an egr cooler or not. Bulletproofed is really not a good term it makes people think that they can ignore it and it will never break then they are all butt hurt when something breaks. It's a term that needs to go away. Just because it has been studded just doesn't make it automatically reliable it's still very important for the truck to be maintained properly with the right filters and maintaining proper voltages. There is a list of info in the 6.0 forum for people looking to buy a used 6.0 to look for you might want to read though so that and have an idea of what your looking for.

 

You're always better off without a 6.0 unless it's a 6.4 in question.

 

This has been my thought process all along. Been looking for a F350, and the 98-02 is getting harder to find.

 

I know how you feel. Then if you find one with say 150k on it, lots of parts on the truck itself start to need attention. I have personally just seen too many 6.0 regrets. If you can be patient you will come across a 7.3 that will work for you, probably won't be everything you want but close.

 

Amen brother, preach on.

I'd buy a bone stock 6.0 in a heart beat. They tend to be significantly cheaper than the older years (7.3 mythology plus bad reputation), even AFTER setting aside a couple thousand to work on the issues that are undoubtedly going to happen on a 150k+ mile used truck.

The engine is only one part of the truck, starting with the 6.0 in 2003 and every year since the body, interior, driveline, and the truly more important part of the transmission has gotten better with ever successive model update. Why pay more than blue book for a much vaunted 7.3 just to need to put a new transmission in it, when you can find perfectly fine 6.0s that don't need the heads stripped off automatically, probably most need a wiring harness, a couple sensors, maybe a set of injectors if the last idiot insisted that "it's a diesel so I run 15k mile intervals". Under $2,000 will keep many a stock 6.0 on the road for years, especially ones that haven't had low rent morons stripping of the heads because they just have to be "Bullerproofed".

The way people talk you'd think Ford didn't sell a million+ of them, and every idiot dumb enough to buy one is here on FTE crying in their beer about their lemon.

 

But you are a diesel tech right?

Hell im quite mechanical and pretty good at researching stuff too. But I'd never want to step up to the plate and invest the time needed in being able to properly maintain one whether it needed all the fancy pants repairs or just all the maintenance/mods needed to avoid those repairs.

But that's me and I'm happy with the output of a gasser. So that makes it a no brainer.

One of my employees used to refer to it as the 6 litre burden. To risky for my blood. Everyone seems to know that guy with that 6.0 that ran flawlessly, but everyone also seems to know that guy with the 6.0 that calved and cost them a fortune if they were incapable of doing the work themselves.

 

That is a 100% valid concern, wherewithal to pay versus doing it yourself is a huge cost differential, and a large part of your personal cost-benefit analysis. I personally think the benefits outweigh the costs with the 6.0, but understand that that is not a universal thought process. It's important to consider each PORTION of the potential repairs on a used vehicle; ie is swapping an engine something I can do versus is an automatic transmission a magical box that runs on unicorn **** and happy thoughts? I'll do the heads on my 6.0 if it needs it without losing much sleep. But if the trans on my wife's Jeep dies I am undoubtedly buying a reman that only takes a dozen bolts and 8 quarts of fluid to make it work. There's no way in hell I'm cracking a transmission case because I swear they're Satan's own toyboxes, and R&R'ing one is not something I have any desire (nor the tools or ability) to do.

Yes it does. If you don't want to tow a 15k 5'ver at 80mph up the Grapevine all of Ford's gas options have significant strengths. But on the flip side I understand the desire for flat torque curves and the ability to set the cruise control and pull across Texas without really caring if there's a trailer behind you or not. Satisfaction is important, even as a 6.0 fan I'm pretty sure I'd be happy with a 3V V10 Better that than a Cummins wrapped in a dog turd.

 

Valid points for the diesel. There's no denying the torque, I've driven them and been in lots, they pull hard. I'll be getting a heavier trailer one day but for now at pushing 9-10g with a three horse bumper pull I'm happy with the gas option and mines even 3.73's with oversized tires.

 

Ok you hit right on my point of why I want a diesel Texastech. We are looking to do a lot of RVing in the future and I want to get my tow rig set arrow straight before I even hook up to a 5er. I'm definitely torn between the the 7.3 & 6.0 (if the 6.0 has been properly looked after)

 

Well research it up then. Because while I agree with what texastech diesel said. I don't think it applies to the 7.3. Unless you do up a 7.3 and its tranny imo my 6.2 6 speed will outpull/trailer one. The 7.3 in stock form is no powerhouse diesel by today's standards.

 

That's because they are all in the junkyard where they belong...