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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Blower Motor

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Old Jul 23, 2016 | 08:12 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk

Thank you Jim!

I snagged the last one on that auction.
Should be here in a week.

Gary, you rock sir.

Jack.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2016 | 08:14 PM
  #17  
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Jim wins the gold for finding one. I just supply the details. But, you are welcome.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 06:28 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Good call, Jim. I didn't know what YH-361 meant.

So, in two week's time we could have had 3 of these bad? What are the odds?
That column is for the Motorcraft service part number.

There is a heat wave so they're all being used at once.

These parts are 35+ years old.
Maybe it's time?
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 07:42 AM
  #19  
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Learn something everyday.

As for the heat wave, there certainly is one. But it has been hot enough around here to be using the A/C for a few months. In Cashman's case he had been troubleshooting the problem for some time and had tried a workaround or two. But his SO suggested it was time to get some help.

I had never played with the switches on that control so was blown away with how small they are in comparison to the load they have to carry - especially for the blower motor. So, I'm not at all surprised we are seeing them fail. Yet another reason I'm going to use it to control a relay on Dad's truck.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 05:47 PM
  #20  
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Don't shoot me but I got to ask?
The blower motor does not work right?
He put 12v to the motor and it works so motor is good right?
He traced it back to the blower motor on/off switch by jumping wires removing the switch from the picture right?
So he needs a blower motor switch? This is the switch on the other side from the duel tank switch in this control panel right?


So he bought the vacuum part of the control with out switches from ebay if I saw the ebay picture right.


OR


am I way off here and if so it goes to show you if it anit one thing it's another, never mind!
Dave ----
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 07:07 PM
  #21  
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By jumping power to the motor you are still using the resistors and switch opposite the gas tank switch. So that all works. The problem seems to be the switch on the vacuum lever is not supplying power to the motor.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 07:18 PM
  #22  
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I should have looked at the other picture of the ebay switch and I would have seen the electrical part.


Man I hope mine works when the time comes that is one high dollar switch!
Dave ----
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 09:16 PM
  #23  
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Yup, and I gave one to a local FTE'er last week.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 12:26 PM
  #24  
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I am just thankful I could buy a NOS switch, instead of a pull from a junkyard. Not sure that switch is used on much newer trucks. Yes it is pricey. A project is to put the blower motor on a relay as Gary suggested, as I did with headlights.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jmcgee
I am just thankful I could buy a NOS switch, instead of a pull from a junkyard. Not sure that switch is used on much newer trucks. Yes it is pricey. A project is to put the blower motor on a relay as Gary suggested, as I did with headlights.
Great go and give me something else I should do to my project
Dave ----
 
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 01:52 PM
  #26  
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Just depends on whether you want to have problems with it later. And, that may be at a point when NOS parts are either not available or are more 'spensive than even now.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 06:56 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
That column is for the Motorcraft service part number.

...
Well, it showed up today, and I got ready to install it, and it is different. Maybe still works, but not a direct fit. It has 3 terminals instead of 4 as the original did. That said, on the original, there were two brown/white which were both +12V, and the orange/brown to blower and I can't remember other color. So maybe it works just sending both brown/white to one terminal. I will use ohmeter to figure out switch so see if that would work.

Some pics:
the box:



The old switch terminals:



New switch terminals:




Numbers I could find on new switch:



D5TA19B919AA
 
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 07:26 PM
  #28  
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If they misrepresented the item you should demand the charges are reversed.

Gary's piece clearly shows the correct ID number, and the page shows the Motorcraft cross.
The box shows the correct part number.

I can only think that somewhere over the years the wrong part got slipped into that box.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 08:28 PM
  #29  
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I agree with Jim - right box but wrong part. And, that's becoming the case more often as we get to the bottom of the bin on parts. Someone probably pulled that part and started to install it, only to find it didn't fit. So, back on the shelf it went. And again, and again. Always the bridesmaid and never the bride.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2016 | 12:29 PM
  #30  
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Just an update to the problem. Ebay seller refunded money, picked up another (more expensive yet) on Ebay, but it was correct part, NOS. Installed it and it ran for about 15 minutes and stopped. Got a chance to look into it this AM and 30 amp fuse was blown. I know I was switching fan speed about that time it quit. Anyway I replaced fuse and it is running again.

I left it on low speed and it ran for couple hours running around this AM.
I may get adventurous and switch fan speed later to see if it blows.

Thanks everyone.
 
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