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I believe the same. As long as the race seems even and smooth with no visible signs of damage I say lube it up and run it. Replacement needle bearings are cheap if you do find an issue down the road.
That shaft is bad. There should not be a lip or bump there. The area where the bearing rides has been severly worn down. You can also see quite a bit of pitting and scoring as well. That should be a "flat" smooth machined surface. Replace the stub shaft and needle bearing,, and make sure you grease it good.
Yeah what carguy said I just re did my whole front end earlier this year and that shaft should be the same diameter all the way across. If it was me I would get a new shaft and those needle bearings are easy to get to I re grease mine atleast once a year of not twice. It could also cause some vibration driving down the road. Here is a suggestion though wich I ended up having to do after I did the ball joints check or replace the axle U joints. There is a good kit on EBay with spicer joints. http://m.ebay.com/itm/371553066998?NAV=HOME
There should be a slightly raised surface for the needle bearing to run on. That one is definitely worn. I also recommend another stub shaft. You will not be able to find the needle bearing alone. Any parts guy will tell you that they only come in the hub assembly and not separately. If think your hub is still okay (or it's not in your budget) you CAN get just the needle bearing (contrary to what your parts guy tells you). It is a B2110. You can get them from NAPA for about $13 or so. I think Rock Auto sells them too for about 1/2 that. If you go to NAPA it does not show it when they do the parts lookup but tell them you want a B2110 (needle) bearing. It's a PITA to get the old one out but it's a LOT cheaper than buying a whole hub assembly. You will also need the means to press in the new bearing. Beating on it would be a bad idea as I don't think it would take too much to damage the race and the needles won't roll so well.
Make sure you really...and I mean r-e-a-l-l-y grease the needles. Once you install it there's no way to grease it unless you pull everything apart again (unless you get this: http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/front-...k-off-fitting/)
Yeah what carguy said I just re did my whole front end earlier this year and that shaft should be the same diameter all the way across. If it was me I would get a new shaft and those needle bearings are easy to get to I re grease mine atleast once a year of not twice. It could also cause some vibration driving down the road. Here is a suggestion though wich I ended up having to do after I did the ball joints check or replace the axle U joints. There is a good kit on EBay with spicer joints. Outer Axle Shaft Seal Kit and U Joint Kit Ford F450 F550 Super Duty Dana 60 | eBay
That kit says for a F450 and F550? Will it fit a F250 and F350?
I learn new things on this sight all the time also. Not to hijack the thread but did you notice any mileage improvement with the Dynatrac kit? Contemplated on buying that kit a few times.
I learn new things on this sight all the time also. Not to hijack the thread but did you notice any mileage improvement with the Dynatrac kit? Contemplated on buying that kit a few times.
I mulled it over for a few years. While on my 3rd set of hubs I had symptoms/issues that I let go too long on the passenger side and the needle bearing disassembled itself causing a LOT of damage. Just the parts alone were going to put me over 1/2 way to a Dynatrac kit ($2K) so I got approval from my wife and pulled the trigger. What a difference! The steering is so much lighter (I'm sure some of that was my dead hubs). They are very beefy and roll a lot better than the OEM unitized hubs. I haven't noticed an MPG increase but the front feels more solid now.
It was a huge hit to the wallet but worth it IMO. I was already into the damage for about $1200 so I figure I got the kit for about 60% off since I already had a mess I had to clean up. It was a good enough point to help convince my wife...especially since I was replacing at least one hub every 2-3 years (I off-road a lot). Figuring in the cost of all the seals and O-rings each time and it adds up quick.
If you do it I recommend getting new lug nuts. That's the only thing I didn't do and it didn't go well putting them on...and even worse taking them off. Ended up having to get new studs, taking the hub apart to replace them, the re-assembling everything. If you're going to pony up for the kit, get new lug nuts for the studs. You won't regret it!
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