Easy-Out
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Easy-Out
68 289/302; Edelbrook Performer:
Found the source of a water leak, not sure how, but the most forward intake manifold bolt snapped leaving approx. 1/2" in the block. Rather than disassemble and remove the intake manifold to gain access to the remainder of the bolt, the 'back yard' mechanic side of me is having a serious discussion whether to drill for an easy-out with the intake in place. Looking at the original cast iron intake it appears to be a straight perpendicular shot, no angle, not sure, probly only have 1 try and do not want to create a more serious problem?
I also, have access to 2 types of easy-outs; square cornered, or the spiral, any opinion which would be the better choice??
Comments/suggestions greatly appreciated!
Found the source of a water leak, not sure how, but the most forward intake manifold bolt snapped leaving approx. 1/2" in the block. Rather than disassemble and remove the intake manifold to gain access to the remainder of the bolt, the 'back yard' mechanic side of me is having a serious discussion whether to drill for an easy-out with the intake in place. Looking at the original cast iron intake it appears to be a straight perpendicular shot, no angle, not sure, probly only have 1 try and do not want to create a more serious problem?
I also, have access to 2 types of easy-outs; square cornered, or the spiral, any opinion which would be the better choice??
Comments/suggestions greatly appreciated!
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,071
Likes: 36
From: British Columbia
Ah, the world's most ironically named tool, the "Easy-Out".
It is extremely important when drilling out broken screws that the hole be really close to dead center. It will be very difficult to ensure this when drilling through the extra thickness of the intake manifold.
I would therefore vote to remove the intake. There is even a chance that with the manifold removed, there will be enough of the broken bolt protruding from the head that you can get Vise-grips on it.
I prefer the square sided Easy-0uts.
It is extremely important when drilling out broken screws that the hole be really close to dead center. It will be very difficult to ensure this when drilling through the extra thickness of the intake manifold.
I would therefore vote to remove the intake. There is even a chance that with the manifold removed, there will be enough of the broken bolt protruding from the head that you can get Vise-grips on it.
I prefer the square sided Easy-0uts.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Ah, the world's most ironically named tool, the "Easy-Out".
It is extremely important when drilling out broken screws that the hole be really close to dead center. It will be very difficult to ensure this when drilling through the extra thickness of the intake manifold.
I would therefore vote to remove the intake. There is even a chance that with the manifold removed, there will be enough of the broken bolt protruding from the head that you can get Vise-grips on it.
I prefer the square sided Easy-0uts.
It is extremely important when drilling out broken screws that the hole be really close to dead center. It will be very difficult to ensure this when drilling through the extra thickness of the intake manifold.
I would therefore vote to remove the intake. There is even a chance that with the manifold removed, there will be enough of the broken bolt protruding from the head that you can get Vise-grips on it.
I prefer the square sided Easy-0uts.
It took me a nano-second to realize the intake had to come off before trying to make the repair; only required removing a couple hoses and throttle linkage. Found the intake bolt is made of extremely hard carbon steel, keeping the drill some where in the center was difficult. I went thru a couple 'cobalt' drill bits, then finished by re-taping the opening. Could not get either type 'easy-out' to work; believe I can count the number of times I have on 1 finger, ended up drilling the obstruction out. Expect to test the repair sometime today or tomorrow when the gasket and intake bolt set arrives?
Again, I thank you for the input!!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Have not had a change to test the repair, seems Fed X driver and I have issues, the package has been accumulating travel miles for the past week.
Anyhow, it's going to be close, the die seems to have cleaned the threads but have not tested under torque; hopefully 22 ft #'s will not damage the thread; meantime, have to read up on what tools and experience is required to insert heli-coil? Should know within the next couple days whether the repair holds.
I do appreciate the suggestions!
Anyhow, it's going to be close, the die seems to have cleaned the threads but have not tested under torque; hopefully 22 ft #'s will not damage the thread; meantime, have to read up on what tools and experience is required to insert heli-coil? Should know within the next couple days whether the repair holds.
I do appreciate the suggestions!
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Have not had a change to test the repair, seems Fed X driver and I have issues, the package has been accumulating travel miles for the past week.
Anyhow, it's going to be close, the die seems to have cleaned the threads but have not tested under torque; hopefully 22 ft #'s will not damage the thread; meantime, have to read up on what tools and experience is required to insert heli-coil? Should know within the next couple days whether the repair holds.
I do appreciate the suggestions!
Anyhow, it's going to be close, the die seems to have cleaned the threads but have not tested under torque; hopefully 22 ft #'s will not damage the thread; meantime, have to read up on what tools and experience is required to insert heli-coil? Should know within the next couple days whether the repair holds.
I do appreciate the suggestions!
That's the tap you used to create the threads in the hole. A die is used to create external threads 
If they don't hold, just drill and tap to the next size larger and go from there, that's going to need to be done anyway to install a helicoil.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Thank you for bringing it to my attention. Reviewed couple 'how to' videos on heli coil install, hopefully will not have to go there. Seems it's not that complicated, imagine comes down to drilling, tapping, and install under the hood.
Again thank you!.
Again thank you!.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Reassembled, until the other shoe drops, the repair seems to be holding up fine. Timing light aint working so need to replace before I can adjust carb. and timing?
I greatly appreciated U'alls input, found it very helpful!!
I greatly appreciated U'alls input, found it very helpful!!
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Here's how to set the timing without a light: Align the timing mark you want it set at with the pointer. Turn the ignition "ON" but do not start it. Loosen the distributor, rotate it slowly back and forth with the #1 plug wire off and a Phillips screw driver in the terminal end with the shaft held next to a ground. When you see the spark, stop rotating the distributor and lock it down. I start with the base timing at about 10-12*BTC. If you do this right, the timing will be dead on the money when checked with a light.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
Here's how to set the timing without a light: Align the timing mark you want it set at with the pointer. Turn the ignition "ON" but do not start it. Loosen the distributor, rotate it slowly back and forth with the #1 plug wire off and a Phillips screw driver in the terminal end with the shaft held next to a ground. When you see the spark, stop rotating the distributor and lock it down. I start with the base timing at about 10-12*BTC. If you do this right, the timing will be dead on the money when checked with a light.
In that I am one step removed from idiot standing, in that it dawned on me that I should have changed the oil after making the repair and running the engine; Consequently water in the oil system. Just finished flushing, 4th oil change, 2 filters, now the oil appears crystal clear.
Just places an order for an inexpensive timing light, I find it helpful in fine tuning; found if I diddle with the timing then it follows I have to diddle with the idle mixture??
I thank you for the suggestions/comments!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,017
Likes: 209
From: SoCal
That is a good trick for setting timing without a light, but you need to make sure that you are doing it on the correct side of the breaker point opening, given that you have to have a certain amount of dwell time. Since the distributor rotor turns counter-clockwise, you want to see the spark as you turn the cap clockwise; toward advanced timing. You can do this trick with the #1 wire connected to a spark plug sitting on the engine block.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
No points, DuraSpark ll. I will deny admitting if asked, I tend to use the 'finger in the hole' method of establishing TDC, once determined, check timing mark location to rotor position, then either rotate the distributor as 'baddad' mentioned, or hook up a vac. gauge, this is just a quik fix, with my 40 year old timing light giving it up yesterday it has not been an issue, willing to bet not far off, if any? Should be interesting, timing light suppose to arrive tomorrow, needless to say first thing I intend to check.
My 65 with the 390 does not have a timing indicator, basically once TDC is established I follow steps mentioned, starts right up, One of the better upgrades I made with the 390 was swapping to Dura Spark ll, no longer a 'pain in the backside' starting the beast on a cold winter morning!.
Appreciate suggestions/comments; thank U's!!
My 65 with the 390 does not have a timing indicator, basically once TDC is established I follow steps mentioned, starts right up, One of the better upgrades I made with the 390 was swapping to Dura Spark ll, no longer a 'pain in the backside' starting the beast on a cold winter morning!.
Appreciate suggestions/comments; thank U's!!
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
That is a good trick for setting timing without a light, but you need to make sure that you are doing it on the correct side of the breaker point opening, given that you have to have a certain amount of dwell time. Since the distributor rotor turns counter-clockwise, you want to see the spark as you turn the cap clockwise; toward advanced timing. You can do this trick with the #1 wire connected to a spark plug sitting on the engine block.
