and this should help stop leaks..
Mirror Rebuild?
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Very interesting stuff guys!
If the mounting hardware can be removed from the door for a Type 8, then I assume we can just weld in some very small patch metal to close off the 3 holes and redrill for a Type 9 and follow 77&79's instructions by using lock washers on the inside of the door.
The only issue I could see is water getting into the door through the two new redrilled holes for the Type 9 mirror... but judging by ND's posted pics, we can just reinstall factory parts (PN# 17C723 + PN# 17724) and this should help stop leaks. Could also apply some RTV on the inside of the door between the washers and the new holes to help seal it all up.
Thanks for the pics/info guys! Greatly appreciated and likely an important topic for all of us Dent-lovers. I've got a feeling I'm not the only one on here that wants to have Type 9 mirrors but currently has a different style
Post up any new links/info if you rebuild your mirrors 77&79F250.
If the mounting hardware can be removed from the door for a Type 8, then I assume we can just weld in some very small patch metal to close off the 3 holes and redrill for a Type 9 and follow 77&79's instructions by using lock washers on the inside of the door.
The only issue I could see is water getting into the door through the two new redrilled holes for the Type 9 mirror... but judging by ND's posted pics, we can just reinstall factory parts (PN# 17C723 + PN# 17724) and this should help stop leaks. Could also apply some RTV on the inside of the door between the washers and the new holes to help seal it all up.
Thanks for the pics/info guys! Greatly appreciated and likely an important topic for all of us Dent-lovers. I've got a feeling I'm not the only one on here that wants to have Type 9 mirrors but currently has a different style
Post up any new links/info if you rebuild your mirrors 77&79F250.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,158
Likes: 5,786
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
If you are in or going to be in the body work phase of things, then by all means remove the 8's and prep the door to mount up some 9's.
Those nut inserts can be a PITA to remove. They all seem to break loose when I need to change a mirror, so that is why I just go with a lock washer and nut on the backside. I do reuse the original bolts.
X2 on yes get the OEM gasket and use a bit of RTV (on both sides of the gasket) and you should be fine.
Those nut inserts can be a PITA to remove. They all seem to break loose when I need to change a mirror, so that is why I just go with a lock washer and nut on the backside. I do reuse the original bolts.
X2 on yes get the OEM gasket and use a bit of RTV (on both sides of the gasket) and you should be fine.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Lower pic: Contents of D4TZ-17696-A TYPE 9 mirror kit. There are no part numbers for these two gaskets, because...
Notice the prefix of these numbers end with B .. this means they are ID engineering numbers, not part numbers.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,158
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
One on the left is a 5 1/4" x 8 1/4", on the right is a 6x9. The one on the left has a gasket for the glass, that I do believe comes out with the glass. I had it on the shelf like it is, so I do not exactly know. Hint...see the 2 black globs of adhesive?
The R/H one has a gasket (black flat piece) that stays in and is glued to the mirror head. You can also see the tab that is held in with the 2 phillips head screws.
The is the part that rusts and will fall apart and let you mirror head come right off. You can also see a difference in the gaskets. One style wraps around the mount bar and one style does not.
Aaron I only have 1/2 a set of the wrap around ones, so you are getting a complete set of the other style, but will work as good.
The R/H one has a gasket (black flat piece) that stays in and is glued to the mirror head. You can also see the tab that is held in with the 2 phillips head screws.
The is the part that rusts and will fall apart and let you mirror head come right off. You can also see a difference in the gaskets. One style wraps around the mount bar and one style does not.
Aaron I only have 1/2 a set of the wrap around ones, so you are getting a complete set of the other style, but will work as good.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
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Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Awesome photos Rich!
Works just fine for me. Thanks Rich! Greatly appreciated.
I'm wondering where the heck we're all going to find those pivot-ball bolts if everyone starts rebuilding their mirrors...? I'm betting my pivot-bolt looks the exact same as the rusty one!
I'm wondering where the heck we're all going to find those pivot-ball bolts if everyone starts rebuilding their mirrors...? I'm betting my pivot-bolt looks the exact same as the rusty one!
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
However... each one of my sets, IIRC, has a badly rusted pivot-bolt. Seems to be the first thing to go on these old mirrors.
If you want to throw a couple of pivot bolts in with those gaskets, I'd certainly pay you for your time/effort. I should probably be paying you for the gaskets as well anyways.
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Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
I will hold of mailing the gaskets today, till I get a couple of pivot-bolts to go with them.
The hard part is getting the one prillips screw to loosen up and not strip out, along with out having to vice-grip the shaft.
The hard part is getting the one prillips screw to loosen up and not strip out, along with out having to vice-grip the shaft.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 858
Likes: 118
From: Buffalo NY
Yes, the pivot ball studs seem to be the weak link in otherwise good mirrors. Mine were rusted on the stud part but the ball was still in good shape. I soaked them in evapo-rust,wire wheeled them, dipped them in flux, and coated them with 50/50 solder,giving them a lead/tin coating that will not rust. (see pics) Replacement glass was available from Dorman part#51017, but is no longer on their website. There are some on E-Bay. Autozone lists it, shows it as not available,but lists the dimensions as 8 7/8 x 5 7/8 x10 1/8 diagonal.I have the 6x9 without gasket. The glass is glued directly to the mirror housing.(no plastic plate). They have what appears to be DP stamped on the bottom of the housing. The vertical span between mounting holes is 7".I believe these are OEM mirrors. The black truck pic is my 78 that I bought brand new ,(yes,I'm that old), and it had the same mirrors. As far as mounting them to the door, I used "well nuts",(see pic), .They are rubber plugs with threaded inserts. When tightened,they expand,sealing the hole from water.
Regular User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,798
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From: Bathurst, New Brunswick
The Dorman #51017 is available on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-51017-...ype=automotive
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-51017-...ype=automotive
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 34
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I've subscribed to this thread only because one day I plan to install type 3 West Coast mirrors on my truck. I believe that's what was originally on my truck anyways as I can see the hole pattern.
I also wanted to say how cool it is to read this thread. I love that there is so much conversation about 'side mirrors' on this forum. Man, do we love our trucks.
I also wanted to say how cool it is to read this thread. I love that there is so much conversation about 'side mirrors' on this forum. Man, do we love our trucks.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
I believe NumberDummy commented above saying that there were different types of arms for the Type 9 mirrors.