Mirror Rebuild?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Mirror Rebuild?
Has anyone ever rebuilt/disassembled their mirrors?
Specifically, I'd like some info (if any) on these type of mirrors:
Reproduction Stainless Door Mirror | 1973-79 F100 - F150 - F250 1978-79 Bronco | LMC Truck
I've got 3 pairs of mirrors... 1 has good glass, another has good arms, and the third has good mirror housings...
Wondering if I can combine all 3 pairs to make 1 excellent pair.
Specifically, I'd like some info (if any) on these type of mirrors:
Reproduction Stainless Door Mirror | 1973-79 F100 - F150 - F250 1978-79 Bronco | LMC Truck
I've got 3 pairs of mirrors... 1 has good glass, another has good arms, and the third has good mirror housings...
Wondering if I can combine all 3 pairs to make 1 excellent pair.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 784
From: Simi Valley, CA
Has anyone ever rebuilt/disassembled their mirrors?
Specifically, I'd like some info (if any) on these type of mirrors:
Reproduction Stainless Door Mirror | 1973-79 F100 - F150 - F250 1978-79 Bronco | LMC Truck
I've got 3 pairs of mirrors... 1 has good glass, another has good arms, and the third has good mirror housings...
Wondering if I can combine all 3 pairs to make 1 excellent pair.
Maybe yes, maybe no, it depends...
Specifically, I'd like some info (if any) on these type of mirrors:
Reproduction Stainless Door Mirror | 1973-79 F100 - F150 - F250 1978-79 Bronco | LMC Truck
I've got 3 pairs of mirrors... 1 has good glass, another has good arms, and the third has good mirror housings...
Wondering if I can combine all 3 pairs to make 1 excellent pair.
Maybe yes, maybe no, it depends...
From LMC's description, this is D4TZ-17696-A (with flat upper/lower brackets). But what LMC does not say is: The span between the upper and lower brackets: 7 19/32."
There's a similar mirror (D6TZ-17696-A), but it has curved upper and lower brackets. The span between the upper and lower brackets: 6 11/16."
The mirror head for these two mirrors: D4TZ-17723-A .. measure 5 1/4" x 8 1/4."
Ford introduced two new 'Low Mount Swing Lock' mirrors in 1978, the backside of the mirror head is a different style than the D4TZ-17723-A mirror head.
The 1978/79 mirror head measure 6" x 9." However there are two types, one does not use a gasket between the mirror glass and the body, the other type does.
Parts catalog does not say what the span for these 1978/79 mirrors is.
The thing is, dealers would install whatever mirrors they had in stock, so which of these four types were installed on your 1978?
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,150
Likes: 5,784
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Be aware that when you have it apart (glass out) that is the only time to replace the small metal tab that is held in place with 2 phillips screws (underside of mirror body) that keeps pressure on the stud ball (that is held in place by the one big phillips screw) and holds the mirror in place as adjusted.
That at least is the part that will rust, fall apart and let your mirror come off the mount stud.. I'd hate to see you go to all that work and then that part fail you.
I am about to go thru that same overhaul process on my mirrors, because I just had that happen. I am changing the with gasket 5 1/4 x 8 1/4 heads to the 6x9 without gasket.
If I get to it sooner than later, I will post it all here.
That at least is the part that will rust, fall apart and let your mirror come off the mount stud.. I'd hate to see you go to all that work and then that part fail you.
I am about to go thru that same overhaul process on my mirrors, because I just had that happen. I am changing the with gasket 5 1/4 x 8 1/4 heads to the 6x9 without gasket.
If I get to it sooner than later, I will post it all here.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Both GREAT sets of info. Thanks for the clarification ND.
Interesting how 2 years of time can change something so much (between 74 and 76).
Oooooo, good point. Nobody wants a floppy mirror haha.
77&79F250, have you ever posted up any pictures of this type of mirror in an exploded view on the tech/info thread you're always posting to?
I'm wondering how this sucker comes apart (mirror head).
Fantastic idea. I'm tempted to suggest a stand-alone build thread for mirrors so everyone can follow along within the first post (guess I just suggested it lol).
Interesting how 2 years of time can change something so much (between 74 and 76).
Be aware that when you have it apart (glass out) that is the only time to replace the small metal tab that is held in place with 2 phillips screws (underside of mirror body) that keeps pressure on the stud ball (that is held in place by the one big phillips screw) and holds the mirror in place as adjusted.
That at least is the part that will rust, fall apart and let your mirror come off the mount stud.. I'd hate to see you go to all that work and then that part fail you.
I am about to go thru that same overhaul process on my mirrors, because I just had that happen. I am changing the with gasket 5 1/4 x 8 1/4 heads to the 6x9 without gasket.
That at least is the part that will rust, fall apart and let your mirror come off the mount stud.. I'd hate to see you go to all that work and then that part fail you.
I am about to go thru that same overhaul process on my mirrors, because I just had that happen. I am changing the with gasket 5 1/4 x 8 1/4 heads to the 6x9 without gasket.
77&79F250, have you ever posted up any pictures of this type of mirror in an exploded view on the tech/info thread you're always posting to?
I'm wondering how this sucker comes apart (mirror head).
Fantastic idea. I'm tempted to suggest a stand-alone build thread for mirrors so everyone can follow along within the first post (guess I just suggested it lol).
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,150
Likes: 5,784
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Only a type 7 breakdown and then NO removal of the glass...all outer mount brackets, nuts, bolts ect...
I would/am going to try a thin flat blade like a wide scraper, and pry at the glass edge after heating up the adhesive with a blow dryer. I might try that when I get home this evening. I have a few spare (parts) mirrors on the shelf.
I want to replace that metal tab before I go thru all the trouble.
I would/am going to try a thin flat blade like a wide scraper, and pry at the glass edge after heating up the adhesive with a blow dryer. I might try that when I get home this evening. I have a few spare (parts) mirrors on the shelf.
I want to replace that metal tab before I go thru all the trouble.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Only a type 7 breakdown and then NO removal of the glass...all outer mount brackets, nuts, bolts ect...
I would/am going to try a thin flat blade like a wide scraper, and pry at the glass edge after heating up the adhesive with a blow dryer. I might try that when I get home this evening. I have a few spare (parts) mirrors on the shelf.
I want to replace that metal tab before I go thru all the trouble.
I would/am going to try a thin flat blade like a wide scraper, and pry at the glass edge after heating up the adhesive with a blow dryer. I might try that when I get home this evening. I have a few spare (parts) mirrors on the shelf.
I want to replace that metal tab before I go thru all the trouble.
I thought the Type 9's (like the one in the link I posted) would break down as well.
I thought I remember seeing a couple of holes in the bottom of the mirror where you could fit a phillips screwdriver inside the mirror housing... but maybe I'm just seeing/remembering things that aren't there.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,605
Likes: 52
I have those mirrors you posted the link to. I have done exactly what you want to do. I had extra mirrors (glass) and I did break one. Go slow and make sure as 77&79F250 says keep it warm. I think I used soap to help put it back in.
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Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,150
Likes: 5,784
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
I seem to remember that there are 2 phillips screws that are on the underside of the mirror, for that inside the mirror tab.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: O-O-O-Oreilly's
I made gaskets out of conveyer belt to go between the door and the mirror. Zero vibration issues and looks tidy.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Thanks for the posts guys. Some good info on here.
Here's a second question... Can you convert doors with a Type 8 mounting assembly to a Type 9 mounting assembly?
I see in ND's diagram that there are two threaded body nuts (PN# 55180) for the Type 9 mirrors. Are these nuts mounted from inside the door cavity? Welded in?
Curious to know how easy it is to swap mirror styles without wrecking the door or pulling the two halves apart.
Here's a second question... Can you convert doors with a Type 8 mounting assembly to a Type 9 mounting assembly?
I see in ND's diagram that there are two threaded body nuts (PN# 55180) for the Type 9 mirrors. Are these nuts mounted from inside the door cavity? Welded in?
Curious to know how easy it is to swap mirror styles without wrecking the door or pulling the two halves apart.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 784
From: Simi Valley, CA
Thanks for the posts guys. Some good info on here.
Here's a second question... Can you convert doors with a Type 8 mounting assembly to a Type 9 mounting assembly?
I see in ND's diagram that there are two threaded rivet nuts (basic part number: 55180) for the Type 9 mirrors.
Are these nuts mounted from inside the door cavity? Welded in?
No, these "rivet nuts" are placed in holes on the outside of the sheet metal, expand when the screw threads in.
Here's a second question... Can you convert doors with a Type 8 mounting assembly to a Type 9 mounting assembly?
I see in ND's diagram that there are two threaded rivet nuts (basic part number: 55180) for the Type 9 mirrors.
Are these nuts mounted from inside the door cavity? Welded in?
No, these "rivet nuts" are placed in holes on the outside of the sheet metal, expand when the screw threads in.
D0AZ-6455180-A .. Rivet Nut / Obsolete
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 148 = 800-476-9653.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 242 = 800-543-4959.
Lower pic: Notice the same rivet nuts were used with the TYPE 8 mirror:
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,150
Likes: 5,784
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
ND to the rescue, thanks as always.
Those rivet nuts (part #55180) are pressed in (with a type of knurling type teeth on the edge or some such thing) the outer door skin and can be carefully removed. To prevent future stripping out and loosening up of those inserts, I always remove them and go with a lock washer and nut from the inside of the door. Of course after carefully taking off the door panel, and since I am in there insp and lube the window regulator and track.
Going from type 8 mirrors where you have 3 holes for the upper mount bracket to a type 9 where you only have 2 upper mount holes is a toss up. You might get lucky and get 2 of the holes from the type 8 to line up with the type 9 bracket?
But you are going to have two holes left over below the "dent" from the type 8 lower arm mount holes.
Those rivet nuts (part #55180) are pressed in (with a type of knurling type teeth on the edge or some such thing) the outer door skin and can be carefully removed. To prevent future stripping out and loosening up of those inserts, I always remove them and go with a lock washer and nut from the inside of the door. Of course after carefully taking off the door panel, and since I am in there insp and lube the window regulator and track.
Going from type 8 mirrors where you have 3 holes for the upper mount bracket to a type 9 where you only have 2 upper mount holes is a toss up. You might get lucky and get 2 of the holes from the type 8 to line up with the type 9 bracket?
But you are going to have two holes left over below the "dent" from the type 8 lower arm mount holes.