I checked them out last night. I am HOPING to order one from them today or tomorrow....

 

I'm in Kansas City and would be more than happy to help if you were closer. My Grandparents were raised in Triplett and Linneaus and I get back up there a coulpe times a year. My Great aunt still lives in Wheeling, just west of Meadville. Had family there and Brookfield as well. I love it up there but the rest of my family would be bored to death!

 

Why don't you go to your local pick-n-pull junkyard and pop a low-mileage one out of a rolled or rear-ended pickup? Or order one on ebay? I did a quick search and I'm seeing many ~100,000 mile motors for ~$1,200.

 

A lot of the time the engine is still good if it drove all the way to the wreck.

 

The main problem I see with a used engine from a junk yard is the "90 day" (or less) warranty..... You just never know what kind of "inherited" problems you're gonna get...Went that route on another vehicle a few years ago, and got burned. Not gonna try it again.

 

+1 for www.powertrainproducts.com .
I ordered mine back in March I think. I have $4,400 ($3,299 + $150 shipping) in the engine, installed with new water pump and belts. I think earlier 2valve ones are cheaper. I have about 2,600 miles on the engine now, so it is almost "officially" broken in. It started out with low power and low mpg, but the power is good now and the mileage is up to 13.7 calculated, so I'm pretty happy with it so far.

 

you folks need to get the build sheet of what a re-man includes......

stuff like check lifters, cams, cranks and replace if necessary is bull if you do not know what the tolerance is that they are using.

don't buy a used piece of junk that's no better than your engine and pay big money for power washing, repainting, rings, new gasket set.

if the engine is not blue printed, dye penetrate tested, and all wear items replaced, cyl honed and reamed, new lifters, oil and water pump, etc, you might as well buy a junk yard dog.

 

^^^what this guy said
People complain about dealer parts prices. There is a reason their parts cost more. Most of your aftermarket part have shortcuts to save cost. Retail auto parts stores have a 200% mark up just like dealers. That's why, when it's on clearance for 1/2 off they are still making money. Manufactures are gambling that the lifetime warranty part they are selling will hold up until you get rid of that vehicle, and if it doesn't, they made enough the first go around to replace it.

My point is this, those crate motors they are selling, the internal parts they decide they need to replace, are being replaced with aftermarket parts. They are hoping it makes it that 3 year/36,000 miles. It's not as bad when you have a shop install it, but if you install one yourself, you better keep up with your proof of purchase for things like a new water pumps, thermostat, etc., or your warranty is out the window, and it's still a drawn out process getting reimbursed if you did keep up with it.

I understand you don't have the money for a ford crate motor. But you asked about these cheaper options, and you've gotten some good advise. I hate you had a bad experience with a salvaged motor, but almost everyone on here will agree, it's your best option. I will take a 100k salvage motor over a new parts store crate motor any day.

 

Well....I've had 3 crate motors in my life (this is number 4) - and had ZERO problems with any of them! I HAVE had problems with a "junk yard" motor. If we are talking a junkyard motor for my 1986 - fine, but for this new of truck I won't go there - it's called a "junk" yard for a reason. Besides, the local one is pretty worthless.


Anyway, it's a mute point.....

 

Got my truck back today! Got a reman from PowerTrain, with a 5 year/unlimited miles warranty.
Drove better than expected....quieter, smoother, and better all the way around.

 

Old thread, but I've put about 6,000 miles on mine (from Powertrain Products) - no problems. Runs great and gets decent mileage (13.5mpg combined)

 

Thanks for updating the thread! My Ford-reman 390 (15 years ago) was a total disaster in every way, so I like to keep tabs on whose engines are any good.

 

Bought a 6.0 Long Block from Asheville Engines about a year ago. Have over 10,000 miles on it and am very pleased with it. Service was great and answered all of my questions every time I called. It was hassle free both ways. Getting my engine and sending core back.

 

I was in the market for an engine and spoke with one of the vendors mentioned in this thread. Simple question of “are the lifters new” was responded with “we put too much new stuff in these engines to list everything”.

 

I have 1 2006 f250 with the 3 valve destructo design. i bought an ATK crate engine with the 3 year warranty that seized up one month before it expired. problem is warranty doesnt cover all the install costs. Found out it had dorman cam phasers which always fail ( see youtube fordtechmakuloco) . Also the oil pumps on these are crap even oem. pressures around 20 to 25psi, and ford revised thier figures down to 15 because they suck so bad. the failure was lack of oil pressure due to a plugged oil pickup tube that looked like it had paint gunked up. so anyway, the replacement came, i spent 400 bucks extra on oem phasers and 150 on a high volume oil pump and 500 bucks for labor costs. Thats over 1k over the initial costs of the engine and install the first time. So now i have 40-60 psi and oem phasers hoping this investment will stand the test. I may need to remove the oil pan and replace it though, i think these nuckleheads are painting the inside and outside of them because a friend of mine ran into another 5.4 ATK that just did the same thing 40 days outside of warranty...