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So I am hoping to get some help here. I have a 1990 Ford f350 Crew-Cab dually 2wd automatic with a 7.3l IDI diesel. My truck has 47,000 original miles on it.
Here is the rub, the truck sat for a year with being run or anything. I went to start it up after changing the fuel filter and installing 2 brand new batteries. The truck will turn over but will not start. I bled the fuel filter using the schrader valve while cranking the more till I got nothing but fuel out of it. I then cracked the injectors and then turned over the engine till I had only fuel at the injectors. And that is it.
When I turn the engine over it will start. I read that the wire connection on the injector pump closest to the firewall should be hot with the key in the on position but it is not.
This is my first diesel so I am at a loss here. Any help would be appreciated.
First start of the day both wires to the injection pump should have 12v+.
However, only the one closest to the front really matters at this point, this is the fuel shutoff solenoid, it has to have 12v+ to run. I'll assume it did because you said you have fuel at the injectors.
Two brand new batteries doesn't mean two fully charged batteries ... These trucks take a lot of battery, minimum two 850CCA batteries fully charged.
How long does the Wait To Start (WTS) light stay on when you turn the key on?
Does it turn over pretty fast (Greater then about 200 RPM)?
Get any smoke out of the tail pipe and what color?
before trying to start on a cold engine, remove the fuel filter and see if it is full or not. my bet is it will be half empty due to air intrusion through old worn out o-rings under the return line caps.
so standing in front of the truck and looking at the engine there are 3 connectors on the injector pump.
the one furthest away has one wire the one closer has 2 wires and the one to the left of that has 2 wires.
I will check the fuel filter again tonight but I know it was full when I put it on new 2 days ago.
What is the best procedure for testing glow plugs? Should I start preparing myself for the $1000 trip to replace the injector pump? I mean it only has 47k miles on it.
As Festus said, there should be no two-wire connectors on the IP.
Actually, You'll see where I ate my own words ... The Ignition Power wire does in fact have 2 wires as well as the high idle, that is where part of the confusion comes from, maybe this will clear the confusion!
In the above picture, the only wire that MUST have 12v+ with key on is the Ignition Power connector.
The Cold Start Advance and High Idle are NOT REQUIRED at this time!
We can worry about that later ...
so I just went out and cleaned the connectors and the tabs they connect to on the injection pump and now I have power at those connectors on the pump. The truck still does not start.
I also tested the glow plugs using a test light and they all have power. One curious thing though, after holding the key on for more than 15 seconds or so the solenoid at the back of the motor starts clicking repeatedly.
Starting issues
