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The really interesting part of this is where to put the level since there is nothing about these campers that is in line with anything else. The joke used to be where do you put the level to insure the refrigerator is level, the top of the counter top, on the galley floor, in the refrigerator? Fortunately the reality is as long as it is comfortable to walk in, you are probably close enough.
And for sure, if you want to see frame flex jack those stabilizers way up and try to level using them. I have seen some where if you did that, the door would catch!
For a while I used the big level on the now gone Titanium for side to side until I figured out how far off that gadget was. I ended up spending some time with a bullet level in the fridge and my 2 foot carpenters level for comparison plus some various thicknesses of wood. I then installed some small levels for side to side and fore and aft. This is especially important if you have a Norcold fridge as they have a reputation of 'eating' themselves. I did the same with the Montana since we opted to not go with the automatic system. So far those little levels have worked out well but a bigger version is on the wish list that can be more easily seen from the driver's seat
The fridges have an out-of-level tolerance, but the closer they are to level the better they work and all cooling coils are subject to leaking. Something to do with "how cheaply can we make them".
The worst thing you can do with any refrigerator is not use it as the anticorrosive is a salt like slurry that will settle out to the bottom of the coil over time.
The fridges have an out-of-level tolerance, but the closer they are to level the better they work and all cooling coils are subject to leaking. Something to do with "how cheaply can we make them".
The worst thing you can do with any refrigerator is not use it as the anticorrosive is a salt like slurry that will settle out to the bottom of the coil over time.
Steve
I believe it's 3 degrees any direction. I try to stay mostly in the bullseye level center ring.
Oh and they are cheap vs the 1974 version I had in an early 5er. I don't know how thick the boiler tubing is now, but it sure doesn't look substantial. Maybe that's why both Dometic and Norcold have recalls and 'fixes'. The Norcold has an over temp device that you can't reset (officially). I believe a magnet will work to pull the trip lever back though.
Over the years I have found that if you within 1/2 a bubble you are fine.... If I really need to check I have a small bubble level that has front to back AND side to side bubbles in it. I set it on the kitchen counter near the fridge. Works fine.
I also have 3 outside levels, all set by using the above level as a "master", then installed the outside ones, one near the landing gear switch for front to back, one in center of rear wall and one of those HUGE side-to-side thingies that mount on the fifth wheel hitch so I can "get close" parking the RV.
The tech trainers say as long as you can walk comfortably in your camper (mountain goats excluded ) you should be fine.
The industry modified to the boiler to largely eliminate crystallizing the anticorosive sometime in the late 80s or early 90s, I can't remember exact date. Now all I see are leaking cooling coils for the most part. I did have one blockage in a really old class C which we cleared by standing the fridge on its head overnight.