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That is one hack job/stupid way to do an oil pan...
Not a good indication that shop does quality work!!!!
I'm not sure why they didnt lift the cab but hey if something does go wrong with the turbo, trans or engine due to this that's on them. I don't abuse the truck so if something like that where to happen it would probably be from that. The shop seems to be pretty decent but time will tell. I'll have to look around next time they were one of the only diesel shops I was aware of in my area.
I'm not sure why they didnt lift the cab but hey if something does go wrong with the turbo, trans or engine due to this that's on them. I don't abuse the truck so if something like that where to happen it would probably be from that. The shop seems to be pretty decent but time will tell. I'll have to look around next time they were one of the only diesel shops I was aware of in my area.
It is nearly impossible to find a competent reliable repair shop. I find that I can buy the necessary tools and do a job twice for the price I pay to get ripped off out there. And that would include taking off work.
I'm not sure why they didnt lift the cab but hey if something does go wrong with the turbo, trans or engine due to this that's on them. I don't abuse the truck so if something like that where to happen it would probably be from that. The shop seems to be pretty decent but time will tell. I'll have to look around next time they were one of the only diesel shops I was aware of in my area.
You have to flip the engine upside down and use special RTV to reliably seal a 7.3 oil pan.
I can pull an engine in 2hrs if I try hard. It just kills me to see people go to all the trouble and aggravation trying to do this job in the vehicle when the failure rate (leaking pan to engine seal) is so high.
When I have an engine out, I clean it and the engine bay and paint them.
You have to flip the engine upside down and use special RTV to reliably seal a 7.3 oil pan.
I can pull an engine in 2hrs if I try hard. It just kills me to see people go to all the trouble and aggravation trying to do this job in the vehicle when the failure rate (leaking pan to engine seal) is so high.
When I have an engine out, I clean it and the engine bay and paint them.
I wish I could have had you do this to mine. That engine looks great in red. Well maybe sometime in the future when I could afford to do do build I'll do this.
I'm thinking of ditching my stock air filter box for the Donaldson 6637 filter with pre filter from Riff Raff. I noticed that once it's installed there isn't any place to reattach the filter under and the air temp sensor. I'd like to keep them so I can monitor the filter. How would I go about hooking them back up? I've also heard that this filter has some clearance issues is this true I don't want to damage the filter. Thanks guys.
I have the regular white version of this filter, and I have noticed it has got a flat spot in the metal mesh where the hood hits it a little, but no real damage per se. The air temp sensor I just tie wrapped up and out of the way, it still functions properly as far as I know. Some people have relocated the filter minder to either the end of the filter itself (drilled a small hole in the plastic cap) or mounted it in the snorkel itself. For me, I just change it every year and so far have had no problems.
One further thing I will say is I would order two filters. You will need one eventually and the shipping isn't really affected much by adding the second one, it will save you some money in the long run.
I have the regular white version of this filter, and I have noticed it has got a flat spot in the metal mesh where the hood hits it a little, but no real damage per se. The air temp sensor I just tie wrapped up and out of the way, it still functions properly as far as I know. Some people have relocated the filter minder to either the end of the filter itself (drilled a small hole in the plastic cap) or mounted it in the snorkel itself. For me, I just change it every year and so far have had no problems.
One further thing I will say is I would order two filters. You will need one eventually and the shipping isn't really affected much by adding the second one, it will save you some money in the long run.
What he said!!! ^^^
I remove the stock air box and cut away everything that isn't battery tray. I've got to do this today, maybe I can remember to take pics...
I get up to 50k miles out of a 6637. No filter minder required.
You have to flip the engine upside down and use special RTV to reliably seal a 7.3 oil pan.
I can pull an engine in 2hrs if I try hard. It just kills me to see people go to all the trouble and aggravation trying to do this job in the vehicle when the failure rate (leaking pan to engine seal) is so high.
When I have an engine out, I clean it and the engine bay and paint them.
Hey I just replaced my fuel filter and did a bowl drain and I noticed that the fuel separator just drains out on the engine have any you guys hooked up a drain line to it so it can emptied into a container. If so where is the line dumping out to?
Or just don't drain the bowl. You can change the filter without ever touching the bowl drain and without dumping diesel fuel into the valley.
I drained the fuel water separator bowl because I've had the light come on twice so I figured I'd drain out what water there might be. Unless that wasn't the fuel water separator and it just drains fuel. Would there be another place the separator could be? I'm relatively new to the diesel ownership but I have a grasp on how they run and what I need to do for maintenance. Thanks.
Always drain your fuel bowl. ESPECIALLY when changing the filter!!!
It's good practice to drain and inspect contents of filter bowl at oil changes. During fuel filter changes, it is critical (IMHO) to clean the gunk out of the bottom of the filter housing. I do this using brake cleaner and compressed air.
Here, you can see the line and short hose that connect to the drain valve - preventing fuel from going in the valley.
This is where that line discharges near the passenger side of the water pump. I always add a piece of hose to this that is long enough to reach a bottle on the ground. Then, I don't make a mess and I can easily collect the contents for inspection. If you see bits of filter media for example - you probably wanna open it up for a look.
Thanks for the pictures on the hose for the filter housing. The fuel in the bowl when I changed looked good I didn't see any gunk in there either. I drained for approximately a couple seconds which should be plenty of time to drain, then I turned power on to refill the bowl.
Also does anyone know of the site to replace my emblems ( F350 lariat and the power stroke V8 diesel) I'm missing on of power stroke emblems on the passenger side.
