NEED BRAKES HELP!!
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Freshman User
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NEED BRAKES HELP!!
Okay guys so on my 78 f150 camper special 4x4 I've done all new brakes. New calipers, pads, master cylinder, brake lines from the cab back, t connector on axle, new rear shoes, wheel cylinders etc. I have bled them over and over. NO AIR! NO LEAKS! but still when it's running the pedal goes to the floor and it barely stops the beast! Please help me it's got me bothered and I'm ready to drive my baby
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before you installed it? Did you check the caliper pistons for ease of movement when you had them out? Sometimes they need to be thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt.
A vacuum leak in the booster line and/or booster swivel connection would cause lousy braking.
Look further down on this page to "My New Brakes Suck." Good info there.
A vacuum leak in the booster line and/or booster swivel connection would cause lousy braking.
Look further down on this page to "My New Brakes Suck." Good info there.
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2015
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Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before you installed it? Did you check the caliper pistons for ease of movement when you had them out? Sometimes they need to be thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt.
A vacuum leak in the booster line and/or booster swivel connection would cause lousy braking.
Look further down on this page to "My New Brakes Suck." Good info there.
A vacuum leak in the booster line and/or booster swivel connection would cause lousy braking.
Look further down on this page to "My New Brakes Suck." Good info there.
I didn't bench bleed. Everything is brand new on there except brake booster. It seems to have a small leak into the steering shaft. That may cause it? It is all the way to the floor.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
You need to bleed the M/C before slapping it on. It's not a "plug n play" unit - it needs to have all the air bled out of it first. Just bleeding the brakes won't do it.
If the booster is leaking, the diaphragm in it went south and the unit needs replacing. Have you noticed any smoke from the tailpipe(s)? If so, that would be brakes fluid getting sucked into the intake from the booster vacuum line.
At any rate, since you need a new booster, you can bench bleed the M/C when you take the booster off. Once its off you may notice more brake fluid in it than just a small leak.
If the booster is leaking, the diaphragm in it went south and the unit needs replacing. Have you noticed any smoke from the tailpipe(s)? If so, that would be brakes fluid getting sucked into the intake from the booster vacuum line.
At any rate, since you need a new booster, you can bench bleed the M/C when you take the booster off. Once its off you may notice more brake fluid in it than just a small leak.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,247
Likes: 5,815
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
X2 on you need to bench bleed the new master cylinder and X2 on if there is brake fluid leaking on the steering shaft/out the back side of the power brake booster, you need a new power brake booster..
You do know there is an adjustable rod between the 2? If you get a new master cylinder and brake booster (set) no need to adjust the rod.
You do know there is an adjustable rod between the 2? If you get a new master cylinder and brake booster (set) no need to adjust the rod.
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Freshman User
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You need to bleed the M/C before slapping it on. It's not a "plug n play" unit - it needs to have all the air bled out of it first. Just bleeding the brakes won't do it.
If the booster is leaking, the diaphragm in it went south and the unit needs replacing. Have you noticed any smoke from the tailpipe(s)? If so, that would be brakes fluid getting sucked into the intake from the booster vacuum line.
At any rate, since you need a new booster, you can bench bleed the M/C when you take the booster off. Once its off you may notice more brake fluid in it than just a small leak.
If the booster is leaking, the diaphragm in it went south and the unit needs replacing. Have you noticed any smoke from the tailpipe(s)? If so, that would be brakes fluid getting sucked into the intake from the booster vacuum line.
At any rate, since you need a new booster, you can bench bleed the M/C when you take the booster off. Once its off you may notice more brake fluid in it than just a small leak.
Yes actually it is smoking now that you ask. If I buy a new m/c and brake booster as one unit will I still need to do that since it's all new and has air in it? How do I bench bleed? Never done it before
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 687
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From: CT
Rock auto has great prices on the combo.
YouTube can explain how to bench bleed much better than I can
YouTube can explain how to bench bleed much better than I can
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Freshman User
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I'm looking on there as we speak. Thanks so much. Any other reasons it could be doing it?
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Elder User
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From: CT
Most common issues with brakes are a leak somewhere introducing air where it shouldn't be. A stuck wheel cylinder or caliper piston will make a really hard pedal without stopping much. The pedal creeping to the floor would be a leak, master cylinder oops, air in the system, low vacuum or vacuum leak.
But you'll be surprised what happens with a new booster master cylinder set up and a properly bleed system.
But you'll be surprised what happens with a new booster master cylinder set up and a properly bleed system.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,247
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
X2 on u tube, level in a vice, separate from the power booster, use the 2 side caps before you bleed it and the lid after you bleed it to create a vacuum to hold the fluid in there.
Push the piston back and forth slowly and let the air work its way out.
I bet the reason the brake pedal is fading is you are losing pressure thru a blown power brake booster diaphragm.
Push the piston back and forth slowly and let the air work its way out.
I bet the reason the brake pedal is fading is you are losing pressure thru a blown power brake booster diaphragm.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Agree with all of the above -- good info there. YouTube vids are ok to help. Bench bleed the M/C, set up the M/C and booster, bleed the brakes and you should be good to go.
Get back to us with your results..........good luck.
Get back to us with your results..........good luck.
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Freshman User
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Awesome! Thank you all so much. Brakes arent really my forté. I'm going to wait till next paycheck and order my new m/c brake booster setup. Soon as I possibly can I will get em on there because like I said, I'm ready to drive her!!!!! Thanks again
And here's the beaut I'm workin on if you were curious
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 534
Likes: 27
From: North Texas
fyi: If you are getting a replacement booster and/or MC, spend the xtra few dollars and buy new (not remanufactured). Most auto places sell those parts New. I went through 2 remans (leaked in different places) before I spent the extra $9 for a NEW MC. Never looked back.
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