I have to dump the widowmakers and old bias ply's on my 49 f6 c.o.e. They feel like they are square! What year and size should I look for that will fit the 5 bolt setup? What will be the approximate cost to switch? Thanks in advance

 

Much depends on what replacement path you select, and how you go about it. The 5 lug on 8" pattern was used by Ford, Dodge, IHC, and Studebaker for all or part of their big truck product lineup from the 1930s to the late 1970s. Ford, Dodge, and IHC trucks all had stud piloted mounting during those decades. Studebaker went to hub piloted in 1950 and stayed that way until their end. Only Ford made near exclusive use of the widow maker RH-5° rims from 1948 until they were eliminated from the Kelsey Hayes product lineup in 1976 under government threat of recall.

If you wish then to stay with tube type 20" locking side ring wheels Dodge and IHC donors are your yard search targets. Used to be they could be bought dirt cheap in yards. Then the steel hysteria bubble wiped out much old yard supply. If you find them today yards might charge $50 each or more.

In 1956 Firestone's tubeless one piece rims were introduced and offered in the 5 x 8" pattern in 19.5" and 22.5" sizes by all manufacturers (Budd, K-H, and Motor Wheel). Later, around 1960, Firestone Steel Products Company began offering complete wheels in addition to their rims under the Accu-ride (later just Accuride) name. The last were catalogued by Budd in 1979, and Accuride in 1981.

Either the 19.5" or 22.5" will fit your truck. The 22.5" is the true replacement size for your stock 20s. The narrowest 22.5" tire today is a 9R22.5" which equates in diameter to an 8.25" x 20" at about 38" tall. The 19.5" rim takes an 8R19.5" (best option) tire at about 33.5" diameter.

Finding used 19.5s in yards is still possible because millions were fitted to 1970s era Dodge and Ford Class A motor homes. A popular wheel is the Budd 89340 19.5" x 6.00". Yards might charge $50+ each. Finding used 22.5s is another matter. Fewer sold, and will be expensive when found. Both of these are being newly reproduced overseas and sold through companies like Wheels Now in WI and American Wheel Specialists in WA. The new wheels have a wider face and different shaped hand holes than the originals but are readily available. I believe they are being sold in the $225 range for the 19.5s and somewhat more for the 22.5s. Tires will depend on brand, US or China, etc. That you can find on the web. Stu

 

What size tires do you have now? I am having new tires installed on my 17" widowmakers today. I am fully aware of the history of the wheels, and chose to continue using them. If you're looking for a yard in MN, French Lake auto parts may be worth checking.

Grant

 

I try to stay away from French Lake. They have so much exposure now that their prices are getting ridiculous. Mine are 8.25x20. The rims look to be in great shape. Maybe I will just use them. I would think if you use common sense, changing the tires would not be that tough.

 

I don't know what part of MN you're in, but most any tire store should be able to help you, or point you to one that will, to find the right tire for your needs. I met with Blake from Samaritan Tire in Minnetonka at Back to the Fifties. He has been helpful & they have the cage that is needed to work on these wheels. My truck was used in ND & was not on roads where salt was used. The wheels are in great shape with minimal surface rust. I'm putting radials on with tubes. I should be getting them back on Monday. Deflating and inflating the tires needs to be done in a cage. You can check out tire options on the Coker site too.

Grant

 

All we can do here is provide information, and suggest you do a web search for stories of spontaneous RH-5° separations. A cage is essential, yes, but of no help once the truck is rolling down the road. I had a guy come to me a while back for a set of 19.5s for his F-4. As the proud new owner he was winching his new truck onto his trailer when an inner dual blew. Thankfully it wasn't an outer dual. He became an immediate believer. Between lawyers and insurance companies it's no wonder most shops won't touch the things anymore. Stu

 

Radials would seem to be a bad idea on WM's

 

Great to know, the shop I work for has a lot of tire work done by those guys so I bet I would get a deal too.

 

Yeah, Ross, you are remembering the SAE paper we discussed a while back that shows radials transmit lateral loads to a rim not seen with bias ply tires. The joint of the RH-5° is prone to failure anyway, radials can't help things. Stu

 

I am not sure on the radials being safe for the split rims but I think it would be a non issue with tubes.

 

The tube doesn't prevent radial sidewall lateral movement. There is more flex in a radial sidewall than in a bias ply that could conceivably amplify the rim's preexisting nasty tendencies. Stu

 

Another place you can check on for wheels if you choose not to use widowmakers might be Joe's auto sales by Hastings & Vermillion. Joe only has Ford vehicles & parts at his yard.

Grant

 

I wholeheartedly agree. I think the bead profile on the tubeless tire doesn't mix well with the other wheels.

 

I have no idea how this will work out. My guess is part of the question is what the truck will be used for. In my case, chances are very slim that I'll put more than 100 miles on a year, 5 miles at a time, & not over 40 mph. I'm just enjoying the restoration.

Grant

 

The bead of a modern radial is somewhat shorter than that of a bias ply, which could result in abrasion where the old rim lip design extends beyond the height of the new tire's bead. In every way I'm amazed a commercial shop in the year 2016 would, first, agree to work on widow makers, and second, agree to mount tires that were never intended for use on the rims. Stu