Timing adjustment step-by-step
#1
Timing adjustment step-by-step
Hi I have an 84 f150 I6 300. Someone told me to adjust the timing because it idles a little shaky. I'm hoping somone can show me pics step by step. I'm having trouble finding specifics and I've read a few threads where the timing marks are on the wrong spot. I've never timed anything so its all new to me. Tomorrow I'll be picking up a light at harbor freight. Thank you
#3
#4
Yeah, that has a TFI module on it, and the single yellow wire with the inline connector (depicted just below the oil dipstick) would be the SPOUT connector.
IOW that's computer-controlled and you can't adjust the timing, so more investigation on your part is needed... you can pull the computer codes to see what the computer thinks is happening, you can investigate fuel delivery, spark, etc. etc. etc.
IOW that's computer-controlled and you can't adjust the timing, so more investigation on your part is needed... you can pull the computer codes to see what the computer thinks is happening, you can investigate fuel delivery, spark, etc. etc. etc.
#6
Yeah, that has a TFI module on it, and the single yellow wire with the inline connector (depicted just below the oil dipstick) would be the SPOUT connector.
IOW that's computer-controlled and you can't adjust the timing, so more investigation on your part is needed... you can pull the computer codes to see what the computer thinks is happening, you can investigate fuel delivery, spark, etc. etc. etc.
IOW that's computer-controlled and you can't adjust the timing, so more investigation on your part is needed... you can pull the computer codes to see what the computer thinks is happening, you can investigate fuel delivery, spark, etc. etc. etc.
#7
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#8
The spout connector if unplugged eliminates any computer controlled advance of the ignition so the base timing can be set. For example my 94 351 recommended 10° advance with the spout connector disconnected. After the base timing has been set the spout connector is reconnected the computer does everything.
Edit, if it was my truck I would spend the time to unplug the sprout connector and check the base timing.
I don't have a lot of experience with the 300 I6, but all of the older V8s and V6s I've worked on have been down in the 4-6° range, 10° is generally where they are supposed to be. Adjusting it back to stock or if you're looking for more power bumping it up A couple of extra degrees if you know what you are doing can help bring back the original power and even slightly improve it with a small timing advance.
Edit, if it was my truck I would spend the time to unplug the sprout connector and check the base timing.
I don't have a lot of experience with the 300 I6, but all of the older V8s and V6s I've worked on have been down in the 4-6° range, 10° is generally where they are supposed to be. Adjusting it back to stock or if you're looking for more power bumping it up A couple of extra degrees if you know what you are doing can help bring back the original power and even slightly improve it with a small timing advance.
#11
The spout connector if unplugged eliminates any computer controlled advance of the ignition so the base timing can be set. For example my 94 351 recommended 10° advance with the spout connector disconnected. After the base timing has been set the spout connector is reconnected the computer does everything.
#12
#13
That's exactly what my sticker says under the hood, too. Except it says it should be a BLACK wire. Anyway, I'm thinking of unplugging it (the SPOUT), loosening the distributor, and slowly turning the distributor to see if it solves the rough idle. Is this correct? Have you done this?
For the 6 cylinder engine, rotate the distributor CCW to advance the timing. Once the timing is adjusted, tighten the hold-down bolt for the distributor and reconnect the spout.
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