2004 f150, comedy of error (codes)
#16
So the ******* dropped the coil bolts into the plug holes... This was the rear pass side hole... Toom me about half an hour to dig that thing out of there!
Put on all my coils and fired it... Got a little stumble out of it but nothing amazing.
Tried starting with vct solenoids unplugged but no result.
I think its still not getting fuel? Theres a valve on the firewall with a green cap that i tried pushing in and nothing came out... Is that a sign?
#19
#21
Do yourself a favor and change the VCT solenoids first. You should do this if your replacing the timing components anyway. Get the latest revision and have new valve cover seals handy. Chances are the old one will be damaged on removal. SEAL PART# 3L3Z-6C535-AA, SOLENOID PART# 8L3Z-6M280-B (latest revision) Also, don't skimp on quality with the timing components, meaning do not use Dorman crap.
#22
My understanding is that since mine is an o4 i can change the vct s without removing the valve covers... Is that what you recommend?
I left the truck on the charger overnight and all day. Just went and gave her a crank, it sounds "uneven" as it cranks, like fast slow fast slow.
Yesterday i was able to feel the pulses of gas out the tail pipe, but i guess if my intake timing was knackered that wouldnt tell me anything, right?
I am still clinging to hope . I have you guys and another friend who dont seem to want to let me give up... Thank you!!
I left the truck on the charger overnight and all day. Just went and gave her a crank, it sounds "uneven" as it cranks, like fast slow fast slow.
Yesterday i was able to feel the pulses of gas out the tail pipe, but i guess if my intake timing was knackered that wouldnt tell me anything, right?
I am still clinging to hope . I have you guys and another friend who dont seem to want to let me give up... Thank you!!
#23
#25
#26
Did the OP not say it would run, just with all the codes? If an oil screen has failed and wedged into the plunger portion of the solenoid, blocking it's function, then unplugging will not help. That happened on my last truck about 2000 miles after a complete re-timing job. That was using genuine motorcraft parts, including the solenoids. The engine was bucking and would barely run, multiple misfires, one bank lean, one bank rich, over-retarded cam, etc., etc. All I'm saying it's much less involved to change the VCT solenoids than a complete re-time, and doesn't require the specialty tools to tear the front off. Also, to do the timing properly, the oil pan should be dropped and the pickup screen cleaned. It is also beneficial to install a better oil pump at that time, such as the Melling or Ford racing with a steel back plate. He's looking at at least $800-900 with the timing components, gaskets, seals, oil pump, and tool (rental/purchase). Changing the VCT solenoids should be done anyway- a little over $100 with new valve cover seals...
#27
#28
So i didnt get much done this weekend. I pulled the coils back off the truck because i had it for sale and everyone was lowballing, so I figured Ill keep the good stuff and sell it seperately. I found a set of plugs for cheap, might grab those and attempt my plugs. Just soaked em in pb blaster for the 2nd time... Come on, get in there and loosen those *******s for me!!
#29