Wix filter is wix?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
I have been driving since the day they started the Mustang production line, and have changed oil and filters a fair number of times over a lot of miles.
If you sell oil and filter changes, you will recommend shorter intervals.
If you call cars and trucks, you will recommend intervals that are a bit longer, yet should keep the engine happy at least for ~100k miles with little problems.
One model of Mercedes does not have a dipstick, and with a synthetic lube specified, has a variable change interval, at the direction of their computer monitor system. Given that it takes a LOT of synthetic to fill the sump (10+ and maybe more), and the filter cartridge fits into a canister and is about the size of a roll of paper towels, I can understand leaving the change interval to a computer.
If you drive, you get to pick. I have a quarter million miles on a Vulcan 3.0, and used, HORRORS!!!, Fram filters, purolator filters, motorcraft filters, and any other brand that was on the market for the last 30 years(almost). Still running, uses little to no oil between changes, and I have no complaint. I drove pure freeway speed going in to work, about 35 miles, and freeway to 'traffic' on the way back. I would change at the 5-6k mile interval.
So, Fram filters ( a lot), any brand of oil that was on sale, and longish(by the above posters standards) intervals, and the engine runs fine.
My take: Special, wondrous brands of oil are pure marketing. Extra special filters with exotic labels are also marketing.
If your engine has 'stuff' floating around that the filter is picking up, such as metal particles, after the first one or two changes post manufacture, there is a problem that the best oil and filter will not fix. The only things that get into a good, sealed, crankcase are oil, and blowby gases from the pistons/combustion chamber. Metal from the bearings and reciprocating parts should be minimal. If you want to spend $30 a pop, you can know your oil does not need changing, and the bearings are not denuding them self of lead, indium, etc., OR find out they are, and your engine life is going to be shorter. I did not bother, as an oil change was cheaper, and gave me enough reassurance it would continue to function and carry me back and forth without some unexpected failure.
In short. Anecdotal stories(the guy who had a filter explode, etc) are just that, anecdotes. Statistical data shows, in general, the brand of oil and filter don't make a heck of a lot of difference. If they did, makers would flock to those particular brands, and we have not seen that. If they can get a .03mpg difference using 0W20 vs 5W20, they may do that. It may help their bottom line, but cause the owners to have a shortened engine life 100k miles down the road, or not. Who knows? 0W20 will sure flow better in cold winter than 5/10/20W oils, but I don't live there. Synthetic may be required by the maker, but that is not 'advertised' in the manual beyond stating 'a good oil of 0W20' .. etc. When the engine requiring full-synthetic dies, they will be long gone, even though the manual did not make the 'synthetic' requirement apparent without fine-tooth combing the manual.
Buy what you want, change when you want. I won't stop you. I just report that I have done OK with all my engines so far using a 'mish-mash' mental image of what kind of driving I do, and what it does to the oil. If your oil smells BAD on the dipstick, it likely needs changing. Really. Good oil will not have a bad odor. It will have a slight odor, but not obnoxious. FWIW. And, here's a grain of salt: . make that two: ..
tom
edit: I like purolator and motorcraft filters. Oils? Whatever brand is on sale. In the long run, either it won't matter, or you will have sold the vehicle before it makes a difference. Who holds onto cars/trucks any more besides me?
BTW, synthetic 'blend' is 20 to 40% synthetic mixed with mineral oils. You can mix your own to get good synthetic properties when cold and hot or buy a pre-mix. FWIW.
If you sell oil and filter changes, you will recommend shorter intervals.
If you call cars and trucks, you will recommend intervals that are a bit longer, yet should keep the engine happy at least for ~100k miles with little problems.
One model of Mercedes does not have a dipstick, and with a synthetic lube specified, has a variable change interval, at the direction of their computer monitor system. Given that it takes a LOT of synthetic to fill the sump (10+ and maybe more), and the filter cartridge fits into a canister and is about the size of a roll of paper towels, I can understand leaving the change interval to a computer.
If you drive, you get to pick. I have a quarter million miles on a Vulcan 3.0, and used, HORRORS!!!, Fram filters, purolator filters, motorcraft filters, and any other brand that was on the market for the last 30 years(almost). Still running, uses little to no oil between changes, and I have no complaint. I drove pure freeway speed going in to work, about 35 miles, and freeway to 'traffic' on the way back. I would change at the 5-6k mile interval.
So, Fram filters ( a lot), any brand of oil that was on sale, and longish(by the above posters standards) intervals, and the engine runs fine.
My take: Special, wondrous brands of oil are pure marketing. Extra special filters with exotic labels are also marketing.
If your engine has 'stuff' floating around that the filter is picking up, such as metal particles, after the first one or two changes post manufacture, there is a problem that the best oil and filter will not fix. The only things that get into a good, sealed, crankcase are oil, and blowby gases from the pistons/combustion chamber. Metal from the bearings and reciprocating parts should be minimal. If you want to spend $30 a pop, you can know your oil does not need changing, and the bearings are not denuding them self of lead, indium, etc., OR find out they are, and your engine life is going to be shorter. I did not bother, as an oil change was cheaper, and gave me enough reassurance it would continue to function and carry me back and forth without some unexpected failure.
In short. Anecdotal stories(the guy who had a filter explode, etc) are just that, anecdotes. Statistical data shows, in general, the brand of oil and filter don't make a heck of a lot of difference. If they did, makers would flock to those particular brands, and we have not seen that. If they can get a .03mpg difference using 0W20 vs 5W20, they may do that. It may help their bottom line, but cause the owners to have a shortened engine life 100k miles down the road, or not. Who knows? 0W20 will sure flow better in cold winter than 5/10/20W oils, but I don't live there. Synthetic may be required by the maker, but that is not 'advertised' in the manual beyond stating 'a good oil of 0W20' .. etc. When the engine requiring full-synthetic dies, they will be long gone, even though the manual did not make the 'synthetic' requirement apparent without fine-tooth combing the manual.
Buy what you want, change when you want. I won't stop you. I just report that I have done OK with all my engines so far using a 'mish-mash' mental image of what kind of driving I do, and what it does to the oil. If your oil smells BAD on the dipstick, it likely needs changing. Really. Good oil will not have a bad odor. It will have a slight odor, but not obnoxious. FWIW. And, here's a grain of salt: . make that two: ..
tom
edit: I like purolator and motorcraft filters. Oils? Whatever brand is on sale. In the long run, either it won't matter, or you will have sold the vehicle before it makes a difference. Who holds onto cars/trucks any more besides me?
BTW, synthetic 'blend' is 20 to 40% synthetic mixed with mineral oils. You can mix your own to get good synthetic properties when cold and hot or buy a pre-mix. FWIW.
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