I just replaced my front rotors and bearings and the drivers side caliper. After test driving I put the front end up on jacks to check and the passenger side wheel spins with some resistance that I would expect with the new rotors and pads. The driver side was extremely hard to spin. Let it sit untill this morning and both wheels spun normally. Did a test drive and checked again. The driver side is extremely hard to move again and HOT. The truck did not pull to one side or the other while driving or breaking.
Any one have any ideas what I may have done wrong?
Thanks. john

 

Sounds like you either got the bearings to tight or you have a bad sticking caliper ,,, my money is on the caliper,,, just guessing

 

oh and did you bleed all the air out of new caliper ???????

 

I believe I got all the air out. Would that cause that kind of problem?

 

bearing too tight would be my guess,,

 

yep could be bearing to tight or bad caliper,,, i do not think air would cause the problem,,,, just checking to make sure you did a good bleed job

 

You may not have done anything wrong, just that the driver side caliper piston isn't retracting for some reason, like rust deposits on the caliper piston bore, as the piston has been in the extended position as the old pads wore. So what kind of condition is the old fluid in & did you flush the system of old fluid after the job???? If so, maybe some air in the fluid in the line, or caliper that's pushing the piston out when it's warm/hot, causing the pads to drag, maybe the caliper piston bore has some rust deposits that are causing the piston to hang & the pads to rub the rotor, maybe the caliper guide pins are hanging up from rust deposits, or lack of silicone lube, or maybe you forgot to lube the caliper guides, or the new ones don't fit right/are out of spec on dimension/too a tight a fit. Granddaughter had that happen with the inexpensive set of Advance Silver pads for her Altima. I had to custom fit the pad guide tab with a grinder to free it up so it wouldn't cause the caliper to hang up & not move. The anti-noise backing shim on it also made the pad too thick, so I couldn't even get it over the danged rotor, after removing the thin anti-noise shim, it went right on!!! Did a real good fluid flush/bleed job with 2qts of Motorcraft DOT-3 brake fluid, to make sure no air, or old water contaminated fluid remained in the system.
Some thoughts for pondering, let us know what you find.

 

Thanks for the response. For some reason I have duplicate threads going. I pulled the front calipers and rechecked the bearing tightness. The new rotors spin freely. I stepped on the break pedal to move the pistons and then compressed and reinstalled the driver side caliper. It was tuff to compress enough to reinstall. With the engine running I stepped on the breaks and let off and then checked for release. I could spin the passenger side but the driver side stayed tight. I think I have a bad (new) caliper. I was planning on doing a flush after I was done.

 

Pawpaw that would be true if the drivers side caliper was old. His post says he replaced the one that is getting hot,,, so either the bearings are to tight or he got a bad caliper right ????????????? If I read right there should be no rust on the new caliper.

 

For some reason I have a double thread going on. I removed the calipers and checked for bearing tightness. They spin freely. After reinstalling the passenger caliper I stepped on the breaks to work the new driver side pistons. Then compressed them and reinstalled the caliper. With the engine running I stepped on the breaks and released, Then checked for rotor movement. I could move the passenger rotor (old caliper) but not the driver side. I had a tuff time compressing the pistons enough to get it reinstalled. I think I got a bad caliper. I noticed that the pistons would't compress until they were flush with the surface of the caliper, Should they?

 

You could also have a rubber brake line that is deteriorating and acts like a one-way valve. I had this same thing happen to my F250 a couple of years ago. When the brake fluid is pushed to the piston, a restriction in the rubber line will not allow the fluid to come back to the master cylinder. One little clue that might point to this is that the wheel turns freely after it sets a few hours.
Just something to check out.

 

Wooooops, I missed that he had Replaced the drivers side caliper, so internal rust, corrosion, pitting shouldn't be a problem, but if he is having a problem pushing the piston back, I agree something doesn't sound right with the replacement caliper.

Was this a New, loaded caliper, or a reman with your choice of pads???

 

Good catch Kruse I have had bad rubber line collapse and cause simular problems. I just did not think of it,,,I guess I was busy blaming caliper. Would check the rubber line for signs of cracking and old age and squeeze ability

 

Rob's a tad busy so I merged the threads for you.

Stewart

 

Thanks for the prompt thread merging request response!!!