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Ford has a couple different ways they wire their start circuits. Just took a look at the 1991 Bronco start circuit diagram & the way it's wired it looks like the contacts in your starter relay have welded themselves together.
Since the starter is disconnected set your voltmeter to read DC volts and reconnect the battery cables.
Connect the voltmeter between the black cable on the relay & the negative battery post, If you read 12 volts the starter relay needs replaced again. Try a Ford relay, some guys claim to have solved this with the Ford relay.
BTW i see that the sticker on your shiny new starter also calls the starter relay a starter solenoid, Go figure.
So I replaced the starter and the relay, it was starting fine. Started it a couple times and all was still good. Went to start it this afternoon, lucky me when I go to leave for work, and it did it again on start up. I popped the hood and pulled the Neg. battery cable, now normally when i pull the battery cable if i touch it back to the battery the starter starts squealing again. This time i touched it to the battery and it didn't start back up. Connected the battery cable back to the battery and the Bronco started fine. I haven't picked up a voltmeter as I haven't been paid yet, I get paid this week. Now I wondering if maybe it is a shim issue.... If it is a shim issue how do I shim a starter? It just sounds as if the flywheel is still grabbing the starter... could it be an issue with the flywheel? Also, when I pick up a voltmeter how do I go about trying to find the short in the electrical?- Sorry i've never used a voltmeter before lol so I have no idea where to start with that
What brand of starter are you getting, and from where? I'm thinking it either needs shims, your getting bad starters, or your flywheel is warped or something. The starter has to extend, spin, and the retract out of the way of the flywheel to work properly. Its kinda sounding like maybe it can't get out of the way. You can get universal starter shim kits from most autopart stores. Might be worth a try, the starter wont have to retract as far to get out of the way. Someone else chime in if you think i'm off the mark here.
Its from Napa Auto, its their brand of starter. I didn't have the money to buy a different one... and couldn't find where my mechanic got the first one from to do a trade in on the warranty.
The starter motor on a 91 Bronco only receives power when the rstarter relay is closed. If the relay is opening as it should the starter motor cannot run. This is different from some other Fords.
I'm wriiting this on my tablet If my PC was'nt crashed i would post the 91 Bronco wiring diagram on here
If you guys are interested in loolking at the diagram go to bbbind.com & sign up for a free account & then look up the start circuit wiring diagram.
For comparison look up a 97 Explorer start circuit wiring diagram. On the 97 the starter relay can be working as it should but the starter motor can still crank the engine if the starter gear is not retracting as it should.
Ford has a couple different ways they wire their start circuits. Just took a look at the 1991 Bronco start circuit diagram & the way it's wired it looks like the contacts in your starter relay have welded themselves together.
Since the starter is disconnected set your voltmeter to read DC volts and reconnect the battery cables.
Connect the voltmeter between the black cable on the relay & the negative battery post, If you read 12 volts the starter relay needs replaced again. Try a Ford relay, some guys claim to have solved this with the Ford relay.
BTW i see that the sticker on your shiny new starter also calls the starter relay a starter solenoid, Go figure.
You really need to do this quick/simple test
Just remove the heavy bllack cable iin yourpicture & connect the positive lead from your voltmeeter in it's place connect black lead from voltmeter to negative battery .
The only time you should read 12 volts is when someone turns the key to start.
Hopefully you now have a voltmeter
On my fender solenoid its only about a 10 AGW wire coming off and going down to the solenoid on the starter itself. Then there is a 4 AWG cable from the battery going directly to the starter solenoid, but mines a 93. The only reason my truck has a heavy gauge cable feeding the fender solenoid is that Ford feeds power of that same supply post to the under hood fuse box (92-96 anyway).
I agree with the test mentioned above. We already ruled out the ignition switch, now we need to completely rule out the solenoid on the fender and the starter. If those checkout, its some kind of mechanical issue with the starter /flywheel.
Yeah your 92 has the same start circuit setup as my 97 Explorer.
The difference on this 91 is it does'nt have the additional 4 AWG cable to the starter
The heavy black cable connecting the fender solenoid (AKA starter relay) to starter motor is all there is
Edit to add that what i would do on this is change the startrer relay (AKA fender mount sollenoid) and simply add a jumper from negative battery post to any handy spot on the engine. One side from a set of jumper cables would work perfect. It would have to be CAREFULLY routed to avoid moving parts.
If this simple little test solved the problem the ground cable would need to be replaced.
Hey, since we're discussing starter solenoids and what not, I have a question: I've recently found 2 different types of solenoids for our trucks:
This is the one on my truck
This is the other kind
I'm curious, since lately I've been able to find only the second type, will that one work in my truck without any problems? is there any other difference apart from the obvious physical difference?.
One of the small posts connects to the start pin in the ignition switch. IIRC the other small post sends an extra shot of voltage to the coil during starting only, but it's not always used
So since I've last posted on here some things have happened. Well I put the new starter in and noticed my oil pan was leaking. Took it back to my mechanic as they were the last ones to touch the oil pan. Turns out they had stripped the bolts and are refusing to fix it. Is it possible my starter issues are from the oil pan leaking oil all over it?
I started a new thread about my oil pan because basically I'm going to replace it myself if possible. So if anyone knows how to replace an oil pan without using a lift....������
Yeah your 92 has the same start circuit setup as my 97 Explorer.
The difference on this 91 is it does'nt have the additional 4 AWG cable to the starter
The heavy black cable connecting the fender solenoid (AKA starter relay) to starter motor is all there is
Edit to add that what i would do on this is change the startrer relay (AKA fender mount sollenoid) and simply add a jumper from negative battery post to any handy spot on the engine. One side from a set of jumper cables would work perfect. It would have to be CAREFULLY routed to avoid moving parts.
If this simple little test solved the problem the ground cable would need to be replaced.
Dont know if you saw my last post after i added to it but this is what i would do for the starting problemI. A little oil on the starter should'nt be a problem
If yuo're sure the mechanic screwed up the pan gasket job you should google Nevada auto repair problems and see what you get. Maybe the mechanic needs a little encouragement to do the right thing.
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