Slight Timing Problem....
First time from my phone, hope it works.
Really folks, I've been at this since '62. The Engineer in me uses a torque wrench whenever possible and I know not to overtighten by hand..... but apparently I did........Truck wouldn't start, thought I flooded it. Changed plugs and attended to a small coolant leak. Suddenly noticed the dizzy hold-down an stud laying in the valley under the carb. (Air Gap Manifold). The stud broke flush and was installed with Loctite Blue. Gave a half-hearted try with a small hammer and sharp punch. No room to heat/drill/easy-out and I ain't yanking the Manifold. Yes, before you start, I know a Ford dizzy would be a snap:-). I don't know why, but Edelbrock casts/threads 2 hold down bosses which makes me a happy boy. Was using the other boss as a ground junction for Alum Heads and Manifold to the Block. SIGH........ could have been worse.
I have one of those air-powered right-angle drills, bought it to get at a broken exhaust stud on the front side of a Fiero V6. They are really handy for tight spaces.
The Dizzy had indeed spun. Nothing holding it. While I thought I flooded, timing was actually a mile out.
Follow up to a previous post - Had just installed an aftermarket 14 degree mech advance limit bushing in my MSD Pro-Billet HEI. With my Cam was told to set the Initial at 22-28 degrees. I set it at 22 initial, changed springs to have 36 total "all in" by 2800RPM. What a vast improvement! Especially at idle. Idle RPM and Mixture adjustment had been finicky. Mixture now adjusts perfectly to 14.7 and while still very lumpy, idle is stable at 1000. As a starting safety measure, I installed a kill switch on my dash. I kill the ignition, get the Starter rolling a few seconds, and bring the ignition back on. No problems.












