Hello All,

I know I have seen these posts before. I did some searches but was not able to find the ones I was looking for. So here it goes..... Again. sorry.

My 2006 F-250 6.0PSD has a new hitch. Tonight it would not start once hot. It cranked and cranked but no start. My scanner showed ICP readings of 366PSI during cranking. Far below the 500PSI needed before the computer will fire the injectors.

So is this the STC fitting at the HPOP that is failing? If so how long will she start cold and drive normal before she leaves me stranded? I have the fittings and new dummy plugs and stand pipes as well. I was waiting to to do this work until I had the money for an new EGR cooler and oil cooler.

I know my oil cooler is failing as my deltas are showing a 15-19 degree spread over my coolant temps.

So can anyone give me quick advisement on the no hot start?

Thanks,
Bruce

 

I forgot to mention. It idle when is running I am getting 580PSI and she will still reach 3940+PSI at WOT.

 

What's the IPR at idle?

 

At idle when it is running is right around 584PSI. It has been at the reading for a year now when I really started to monitor her. B.

 

Randy was wondering that the IPR was hot...........not the ICP
Makes me wonder if you had something goofy happen with the IPR that was a fluke, wasn't let the oil full on that it needed to fire.

Was this just the one time? Or every time it's a hot start?

Your ICP at idle, while ok, it on the low side of ok IIRC.

 

Today was the first time no start hot. For the past few weeks it has been starting differently when hot. What I mean is when I start it hot it cranks like two cylinders are firing, the a half second later two more cylinders kick in then two more cylinders kick in then last two kick in and she fires right up. So it is a staged start up. Let me see if I have the IPR listed in my OBD2 app.

 

I would start with the dummy rail plugs. You don't need to touch anything on the top part of the engine to change those out. Only the valve covers need to be removed. Being a 2006 engine, I wouldn't be surprised at all, if the lower d-rings have deteriorated, causing your no-start hot issue. 580 psi at hot idle in park or neutral is dead on where it should be. Your IPR duty cycle at hot idle should be between 21 to 23%. Any much higher than that indicates a bigger high pressure oil system leak somewhere.

 

Okay, got some additional numbers. Fired up AE. The cold reading is as cold as she got sitting for 5 hours. The hot is after a two mile drive.
Cold 121F Hot 187F
IPR 697PSI 580PSI
ICP 26.95% 23.4%
ICPV .98v .86v
ICP cranking 84% 84%

50MPH road test near hot (185F) I was getting IPR 1050PSI and ICP 33%. What next? Dummy plugs and stand pipes or STC at the HPOP?

Bruce

 

After the drive back home she started hot like she has been for the last few weeks. A crank of about 4 seconds and she hits on all 8 at once. I already have the dummy plugs and stand pipes. Should I try those this weekend and she how she responds? I'm worried she will leave me on the road. B.

 

23.4% shows a leak... installing them this weekend is a good plan.

Some of your labels are wrong;
IPR 697PSI 580PSI.... this is ICP
ICP 26.95% 23.4%.... this is IPR and not good.
ICPV .98v .86v......... this is correct
ICP cranking 84% 84%... this is IPR and not good.

 

What Mike said....

The above symptoms were what was happening on a 2007 F350 I worked on. It would almost reach the required pressure to start then fall on it's face and never start.

New dummy plugs and standpipes fixed it right up.

If the ICP didn't go much past 100 psi, you'd be looking at a STC fitting.

 

Thanks for the input guys. Kind of funny, as I bought the new style stand pipes and dummy plugs some months ago along with the updated STC fitting. I had planed to change them when I do the oil cooler in a few months. BUT, I guess I get to do the stand pipes and plugs this weekend. YAY!!! Not.

I was worried it was going to be the STC as I don't have a new EGR cooler yet. As I planned to do it in one shot. So I guess I'm safe on that front for now. B.

 

What size wrenches or special tools may I need to do this job? I have a lot of my stuff at work and want to make sure I bring the right stuff home Friday night.

Thanks again, Bruce

 

To replace the rail plugs won't involve too much disassembly. For starters, you will need to remove the hot side CAC pipe off the turbo. I like to remove the pipe with the rubber ends attached to both ends. You will need a 7/16" (or 11mm) deep socket and suitably sized extension. Once removed, I like to remove the air deflector over the fan stator, which is easily achieved by gently prying over the clips individually and pulling them off one at a time. Then the oil filler neck which just spins off with a good pair of channel lock pliers. You will need a 10mm (preferably deep) socket to remove the four nuts which secure the glow plug controller and bracket assembly to the passenger side valve cover. Then to remove the ICP sensor, you'll a 24mm (or 15/16") wrench. Once removed, a flexible closed end 10mm Gearwrench will come in handy to remove the one 10mm nut securing the transmission fluid dipstick tube to the one of the valve cover studs. Once the dipstick tube is out of the way, you now have unobstructed access to all eleven bolts/studs for the passenger side valve for which are all 12mm. A deep socket comes in handy for the studs. There are I believe four bolts and seven studs for the passenger valve cover. A stubby 12mm Gearwrench will be very useful for the two lower ones adjacent to the evaporator housing. Once removed, a 10mm allen head in a socket will be needed to remove the original standpipe and dummy rail plug. The standpipe will need to be removed in two pieces by separating the upper and lower half of the pipe, due to clearance issues with the evaporator housing. Ditto for installing the new standpipe. Once you have the new rail plug and standpipe installed, you will now need a 12mm allen head in a socket to tighten and torque them to 60 ft-lbs. Now installation of the valve cover is just the exact reverse of the steps detailed above.

Moving onto the driver side, remove the air cleaner assembly by loosening off the worm clamp connection to the air inlet. Now disconnect the MAF sensor connector from the air inlet housing. Pull the airflow restrictor hauge out of the air cleaner housing and lay it aside hanging by its electrical connector. Now disconnect the coolant hose at the coolant degas bottle above the air inlet and lay aside. Pull the engine oil dipstick out of the tube about two inches. Now to remove the air cleaner, grab it by the outlet end that you disconnected from the turbo inlet and YANK upward using finesse to remove the whole assembly (with both ends attached to the filter) from the truck (DO NOT disassemble it). Disconnect the small hoses to the coolant degas bottle (you already disconnected one of them during air cleaner removal) and find a suitable cap to cap off the openings on the degas bottle to prevent coolant from leaking out during the process. Ditto for the ends of the hoses disconnected from the bottle. Now remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the coolant degas bottle from the cowl area and lay it aside and out of the way, taking care not to yank too hard on the hose at the bottom of the bottle. Depending on whether you have an early build '06 or a late build '06 you will remove the FICM by either removing four "spaceship" shaped 10mm nuts, or have two 10mm nuts and two 8mm bolts that secure the front FICM bracket to the air inlet to be removed and with two more 8mm bolts that secure the rear FICM upper bracket. Once the FICM is unattached from the bracket, you will need to SQUEEZE AND PULL all three FICM electrical connectors (there are two sides to be squeezed on each of the three connectors). Be careful with the connectors, they are brittle from the heat and can break very easily. Now disconnect the EBP sensor connector and lay the wire over the top. You will now be removing a total of six 10mm nuts (one securing the engine oil dipstick tube, four that secure the FICM brackets to the valve cover studs and one that secures the EBP tube to the front FICM bracket). Now with unobstructed access to the driver side valve cover fasteners, simply repeat the process as described in the first paragraph (five studs and six bolts, all 12mm). With the valve cover finessed out, repeat the process described above for rail plug and standpipe removal and installation with the only difference being that you do not need to separate the standpipe halves on this side (10mm allen head to remove, 12mm allen head to install and torque to 60 ft-lbs.). Reverse the removal process to assemble.

HOPE THIS HELPS. GOOD LUCK.

 

Good stuff Mike
I was beating my head against the wall trying to find something in the tech folder....some things are better done with someone else's write up