I have a 97 Explorer V8 XLT and the check engine light came on. Occasionally it flashes on and off. I replaced the air filter and the light went off only to come back on after a while.

Where I used to have excellent acceleration, now I have NO get up and go, and am even hesitant on those short freeway entrance ramps. The vehicle bounces in idle and seems to miss while driving. I first thought I was running out of gas based on the way it felt.

When I do put the pedal to the floor, I'll get an odor similar to a burned match that makes me cough and choke. I have to roll down the windows just to breathe.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what the problems are? I assume there are many. I won't be fixing it myself (wife's orders), but I also don't want to get ripped off. Also, any opinion as to going to the dealer vs. an independent mechanic?

thanks.

 

Go to AutoZone and get the codes pulled. Then you'll get an idea where to start.

 

Could be the cat converter. I agree with the previous post, pull the codes.

 

Hey!
I had the same problem. I just bought a 97 Explore AWD V8 a couple of weeks ago, and after test driving it I smelled the same sympton you described. Ford dealer couldn't figure it out other than saying that I had a major problem. I took it into my own hands and used the process of elimination.
Guess what? Check your plug wires!!! Mine had two plug wires that were melted up against the exhaust manifold on the passenger side and another that was getting close to melting on the drivers side. I am confident that's what the culprit is. Electricity arcing from the plug wires and heat from the manifold melting your plug wires equals "burned match" smell. That's why your engine check light flashes and probably stayed on, plus the lack luster power. I spent $86 for an entire new set of plug wires along with Bosch platinum +4 plugs. It was relatively easy to fix if you go through the fender well plastic cover. Don't even have to lift up the SUV or take the tires off...just need at least a 2 foot long ratchet extension. I also invested some $$ for some plug wire heat resistant wrap which you can pick up at any speed shop along with some header wrap since the manifolds didn't have a heat shield. Be careful to watch how you route the plug wires so they aren't so close to the exhaust manifold and have the same thing happen. Good luck!

 

Man, I hope you're right. I do not want to fork over almost $1,000 on this. I'll let you know what happens. As soon as I get the repair manual from our public library, I'll pull the codes and post the results here.

 

Since yours is OBD-II, you'll either need to purchase an OBD-II scanner (expensive) or have some place that already has a scanner, like AutoZone, pull them for you. AutoZone does it for free.

 

Thanks, I called AutoZone, and they'll do it just like you said. (OT: I noticed you're in Round Rock, are you a Jim Rome fan? He's supposed to be at Dell Diamond in Sept. for a tour stop.)

 

I was finally able to make it to AutoZone who pulled the codes. misfire codes on #4 and #7 (P0304 and P0307). From what I've read on numerous other posts, it sounds like I should start with replacing the spark plugs and all the wires.

Also, it appears from other posts that I should stick with Autolite or Motorcraft plugs and wires and avoid the Bosch products. Is there a particular type of plug that's more desirable (double platinum, single, other)? I have the 5.0 302 V8.

I can't do this myself, and the chains like Pep Boys want to charge for a whole host of other things I don't need. Plus, they install Bosch plugs and wires.

Any input or advice is welcomed.

 

with a haynes manual, a monkey could change spark plug wires...if you do decde to do t yourself...do it ONE WIRE AT A TIME! remove one wre..replace that wire with one of equal size and do the plug at same time. dont be afrad to save yourself a bunch of money..but if there is no other option buy the parts YOU want and find a shop that will install them for you expect to pay between 40 and 60$ an hour though..depending on parts expect on 50$ give or take a few bucks...hell if you lived close to me i'd replace the plugs and wires for 30$ and show you how to do it so next time you save 30$

 

If you live close to me, I'd do it for free! It's really that simple.

 

I always use the standard AutoLites. You don't need the platinums or anything like that.

 

O.K., I got the Haynes manual from the local library and will try replacing them myself. I'm not sure how I'm going to access some of the places where the wires are routed, especially on the passenger side.

I do have a question about gapping the spark plugs. Will AutoZone set them to the correct gap for me? I have the measurement tool, but will probably break the plug with my luck. What do you use to bend the electrode?

Thanks for the encouragement. BTW, I live in Tulsa.

 

Normally, the plug gap is very close, however you should always check each one before putting them in. If you have a gapping tool, it should have a bender on it. Just don't strong arm it. When accessing some plugs/wires, it may be easier to come in through the wheel wheel instead of the top. Also, you might want to consider putting some anti-seize compound on the threads of each new plug before inserting.

Mike

 

get a "ring style" not the disc looking one the best one is the knd that little loops on it. i have used the disc and the ring both using the dsc one and check it with the ring gauge the dsc was way off...if u get the ring kind simply push the ring size u need ibetween the plug tip and the electrode at end of plug...wires? do one at a time and route it the way it was when u pulled it off, also some DIELECTRIC grease would be good at the plug boots where they make contact with the plug (better connecton) also get some ANTI SIEZE to spread over the plug threads so that the next time plugs are changed they arent fused with the engine.

 

Thanks for the info. I look forward to doing this myself and getting some satisfaction knowing I didn't shell out a lot of money for things I don't need.