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I have this e150 302 v8 tfi fuel injected automatic with just under 100,000 miles.
It idles great and revs fine in park, but as soon as you put it in gear and touch the gas pedal it dies. put it back in park. starts right up again.
it is a custom van set up for use by a handicap driver. I purchased the van a few months back because a relative had surgery that left him paralyzed from the chest down and has kinda lost his zest for life. hasn't really left his house other than dr's visits for the last 5 years. thought that this van might give him something to look forward to. so i really want to fix it if possible. I can't afford anything else for him,
well it is proving to be a struggle. when i got the van ,the guy i bought it from drove it about 20 miles to me. he said that the alternator died on the way so he replaced it. the mid tank does not work and the fill pipe has been cut and capped. the guy that sold t too me was not driving it but using it for storage at the marina where he lives on a boat.
I changed the fuel filter on the drivers side rail. the spark plugs, wires, distributor. pvc valve. cleaned the iac. air filter.
any thoughts on whats next.
i tried jumping the wires to get codes but there is no cel or service light on the dash -just break and turn signals.
any advice would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!
I have this e150 302 v8 tfi fuel injected automatic with just under 100,000 miles.
It idles great and revs fine in park, but as soon as you put it in gear and touch the gas pedal it dies. put it back in park. starts right up again.
it is a custom van set up for use by a handicap driver. I purchased the van a few months back because a relative had surgery that left him paralyzed from the chest down and has kinda lost his zest for life. hasn't really left his house other than dr's visits for the last 5 years. thought that this van might give him something to look forward to. so i really want to fix it if possible. I can't afford anything else for him,
well it is proving to be a struggle. when i got the van ,the guy i bought it from drove it about 20 miles to me. he said that the alternator died on the way so he replaced it. the mid tank does not work and the fill pipe has been cut and capped. the guy that sold t too me was not driving it but using it for storage at the marina where he lives on a boat.
I changed the fuel filter on the drivers side rail. the spark plugs, wires, distributor. pvc valve. cleaned the iac. air filter.
any thoughts on whats next.
i tried jumping the wires to get codes but there is no cel or service light on the dash -just break and turn signals.
any advice would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!
This is a 1986 model? I would test the TPS for openers.
thank you guys for the quick reply. I have an OBD II code reader. But it I think i need an OBDI correct. any advice on brand? Meanwhile i will try the test wildman posted. hopefully that's the extent of it. appreciate your time. will post back.
thank you guys for the quick reply. I have an OBD II code reader. But it I think i need an OBDI correct. any advice on brand? Meanwhile i will try the test wildman posted. hopefully that's the extent of it. appreciate your time. will post back.
You didn't post what year the van is?? That would help direct you some.....
If your pre- 1996 (which the 302 is) you'll need a OBD I scanner to pull codes, or do the paper clip, jumper trick.
And.......jimandnena posted my favored Link for diagnostic's, Thanks Jim!
First thought, after reading your original post, you could have a disconnected, cracked, rotted out vacuum line, which mostly show up with an high idle, but not always, so, you should check, if not replace all the small vacuum lines with new 3/16" rubber lines, 6 feet of rubber vacuum line would do it, and check the hard plastic lines for cracks/splits.
From the point, that is starts, and stalls when you hit the gas pedal, you should test the TPS first, hitting the pedal, opens the throttle valves, the TPS sends a signal to the ECU, which controls the fuel injectors volume/pulses. A bad signal would not sent enough fuel to the injectors, causing a stall.
You could by-pass this with the air duct off, and turn the throttle valves by hand, running and idling, and spray some starting fluid or TB cleaner into the TB to see if it keeps running?
Besides that, read the link, and checking the fuel pressure regulator would be the next check. Checking the fuel rail for pump pressure should also be done.
The van is a 1986.
I just picked up that same scanner jimandnena today.
I tried the pin test but there's no light on the dash to check , unless in a 1986 theres a different light or sound to watch for. there is only a break light indicator and turn signal indicators. odometer, gas , oil, and battery gauges.
I did the test on the wires on the wires but got nothing.
by following wildmans instructions I did the tests on tps and got a bad reading on the black. so I replaced it. while doing so I cleaned throttle boddy and while doing so realized this engine is extreamly dirty. concerns me of course.
I will check for air leaks while I wait for that reader to come. you guys are great! thanks fir helping, will be back with results.
actually one of small vacuum lines to the throttle body (lower) was almost completely clogged
If this one is similar to my 88, those two vacuum lines are the charcoal canister pulling fuel tank vapors into the throttle body. Some years had a solenoid that opened to apply vacuum to pull vapors into the engine. Smog thing. Both my lines were packed with charcoal dust from the canister. Here's is my vacuum diagram.
You didn't post what year the van is?? That would help direct you some.....
If your pre- 1996 (which the 302 is) you'll need a OBD I scanner to pull codes, or do the paper clip, jumper trick.
And.......jimandnena posted my favored Link for diagnostic's, Thanks Jim!
First thought, after reading your original post, you could have a disconnected, cracked, rotted out vacuum line, which mostly show up with an high idle, but not always, so, you should check, if not replace all the small vacuum lines with new 3/16" rubber lines, 6 feet of rubber vacuum line would do it, and check the hard plastic lines for cracks/splits.
From the point, that is starts, and stalls when you hit the gas pedal, you should test the TPS first, hitting the pedal, opens the throttle valves, the TPS sends a signal to the ECU, which controls the fuel injectors volume/pulses. A bad signal would not sent enough fuel to the injectors, causing a stall.
You could by-pass this with the air duct off, and turn the throttle valves by hand, running and idling, and spray some starting fluid or TB cleaner into the TB to see if it keeps running?
Besides that, read the link, and checking the fuel pressure regulator would be the next check. Checking the fuel rail for pump pressure should also be done.
do think if the fuel injectors are clogged it would cause this? I mean the insides are so dirty I have think that would be suspect.
If this one is similar to my 88, those two vacuum lines are the charcoal canister pulling fuel tank vapors into the throttle body. Some years had a solenoid that opened to apply vacuum to pull vapors into the engine. Smog thing. Both my lines were packed with charcoal dust from the canister. Here's is my vacuum diagram.
smog sticker 88 e-150 302
see I have no stickers on this smog or otherwise, I did trace that line today and found the same location you have.
do you think clogged injectors might be culprit
see I have no stickers on this smog or otherwise, I did trace that line today and found the same location you have.
do you think clogged injectors might be culprit
Injectors would not be affected by those vent lines. And I don't think if they were clogged that it would be the main problem. The fuel tanks (mine had dual tanks) would still vent, just to the atmosphere.
If the injectors were plugged or partially plugged the engine would run poorly at idle and nearly every RPM. You stated it runs great at idle.
The concern listed was stall on acceleration. (You don't state on a cold, warm or hot engine)
I would agree with the above suggestion of looking for vacuum leak. On acceleration the engine needs a slightly richer fuel mixture. If there is a leak then the engine will run lean and may stall.
Other areas -
There is at least one oxygen sensor. If that isn't communicating the processor doesn't know if the mixture is too rich or too lean coming out of the engine. At 100,000 miles I would consider replacing just as a maintenance item. These O2 sensors wear and 100k it is likely worn to the point it does not send signals fast enough to the processor.
MAP sensor - make sure the vacuum line is connected! That sensor is on the right upper side of the engine compartment. If the MAP sensor is defective the processor again will not know to run leaner or richer.
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