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Good morning everyone. I've got always 2001 Ex which the previous owner installed a BDS lift on. It sits at 28" center of hub to fender lip in the front and 30.75 in the rear. I really don't care for that look and am wondering if I could fix it by simply removing the rear blocks?
IIRC stock is a 2" so it should in theory sit level. For the love of God, buy new u-bolts if/when you do remove the block.
Something else to keep in mind, the roof does have a slight downward taper as it moves towards the back of the vehicle. So from afar you may look a tad low in the butt, but it'll actually be level. It's more pronounced when the lift front/rear is identical as opposed to a slight rake.
The blocks are 2" or at least pretty close which is why I figured they were stock. My main concern was that it wasn't safe to not have blocks. Would I need something different then new stock u-bolts because of the lift?
Depends on how thick the lift pack is honestly. I just bought oversize ones and cut them to size after install for clearance, and more importantly so I could throw a torque wrench on them.
Just asking to cover the base, you know for a fact it's the all spring lift and not the AAL out back?
Yes. I was told by the seller's son that it was a 4" all spring superlift but I ran the numbers on the springs and it's actually a 6" BDS all springs lift.
That's good to know, nice job being proactive on that!
I dont know enough about the suspension configuration to speak with much confidence, however I believe the bolt that holds the pack together will function as the centering pin for the spring perch on the axle. The block should have a nub on the lower side that fits the perch pocket, and an indent on top for the aforementioned bolt. New u-bolts of the proper size (diameter) of any over-length will work fine. I just double-nutted mine, cut the excess u-bolt threads off flush with the top nut, and then removed said nut to clean off the threads. Torque the remaining nut to spec (I used graduated increments until spec was reached, but that's a carry over from engine building for me) and done.
I may be wrong here it but isn't the factory block tapered ?
You may need a tapperedwedge to correct pinion angle.
Easiest way to find out is probably remove block and mount axle direct to springs using new ubolts. Test drive and correct if any vibes.
Use an inclometer to determine what degree correction wedge is needed.
I may be wrong here it but isn't the factory block tapered ?
You may need a tapperedwedge to correct pinion angle.
Easiest way to find out is probably remove block and mount axle direct to springs using new ubolts. Test drive and correct if any vibes.
Use an inclometer to determine what degree correction wedge is needed.
Pirate - do you know why the tapered factory blocks have the thicker part at the back? That goes against everything I have read about this and using shims with the procomp set-up. Everyone says out the fat part of the shim facing forward on the rear.
Pirate - do you know why the tapered factory blocks have the thicker part at the back? That goes against everything I have read about this and using shims with the procomp set-up. Everyone says out the fat part of the shim facing forward on the rear.
So your pinion angle isn't pointing towards the ground?
So your pinion angle isn't pointing towards the ground?
My question is everything I’ve read says put the thick part of the taper towards the front. But the factory block has the thick part at the back. Just trying to understand why that is.
on a lifted rig the tapered shim tyipically has the angle tipping your pinion down in the front to match pinion angles.
using the pinion tipped up method usually results on mismatched angles depending on the joints used in the driveshaft
My 2002 has factory tapered blocks with the bumpstop ears. The taper is only 1/4". It depends on which drive line your rig has. My double cardan is like the pic @rockhounds4x4 posted, so it need to be in line with the drive shaft. Yes, the block taper goes rearways to drive the pinion angle up and flipped around frontways to drive the pinion angle downward.
