Hi,
I am leaving for a 3000 mile road trip next friday. I have done all my normal pre-trip maintenance (fluids, tires, filters etc). I wanted to re-pack my front wheel bearing, which I have never done before. My understanding is that I remove the front rotor by popping off cap on the rotor and removing the nut holding it on. The rotor should then slide off and expose the bearing (the back side of the rotor is the race for the bearing). A few questions:
1. Is what I stated above accurate?
2. Does the bearing simply slid off after removing the rotor, allowing it to be cleaned and repacked?
3. What type/brand of grease is recommenced to use when repacking? I don't need anything super high end, but I would like something that will last a decent time....possibly a synthetic?
4. What is the size and torque spec for the nut holding the rotor on? I don't want to over or under tighten and kill the bearing.

I have a new set of rotors and pads that I will be installing at the same time.

Vehicle is an '88 e250 2wd.

Thanks

 

Disclaimer: my knowledge of 2wd hubs is from an F-150, but I believe the procedure are the same or very close for an E-250.

First, hope all goes well with your trip! And bearings aren't that tough, especially on 2wd.
Second, get a vehicle manual! It would have answered all these questions and had pictures and procedures to boot. $20 chiltons is fine.
1. Not really. There's a castle "nut" on top of the axle nut, that has a cotter pin through it, that needs to be removed. The purpose of that is to keep the axle nut from moving as it is not torqued, but gently snugged up. There are also two bearings per rotor, outer and inner.
2. The bearings do slide off, but I can't remember for 2wd if the inner has a similar seal like 4wd. That's relevant because you can't re-use the 4wd seal, and would need a new one during this process.
3. I use Schaeffer 221 Moly(LOVE IT), but for parts store stuff I think the Chevron hi pressure moly is a good pick. Pretty sure most greases these days are synthetic but I could be wrong.
4. Wish I had that info. But it's good-sized. Over 1" most likely, Harbor Freight has a good cheap set of deep impact sockets that has come in amazingly useful for me.
13 Pc 1/2 in. Drive SAE Impact Deep Wall Socket Set
They actually come on a plastic carrying thing, compact and useful. For whatever reason it's not pictured.

4. Cont...the process to seat the bearings is usually some version of: Tighten the axle nut down while moving the rotor back and forth with your off-hand. Always keep it moving while tightening. Once it's tight to the point you feel significant resistance or a "gritty" feeling, stop moving and loosen the nut 90*. But the castle piece on top and line it up to the hole for the cotter pin, insert pin, bend it.

 

From another site, the directions i used it's been fine for 3,000 miles. I used Royal Purple synthetic grease to pack mine.

Tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut to 23-34 Nm (17-25 ft lb) while rotating the disc brake rotor in the opposite direction. Back nut off approximately one half turn.

Tighten nut to 2.03-2.26 Nm (18-20 in lb) while rotating the disc brake rotor.

o End play should be 0.006-0.127mm (0.00025-0.005 in) .
o Torque required to rotate the hub should be 1.13-2.82 Nm (10-25 in lb) .

most in. lb torque wrenchs are 1/4" so you'll need a few few adapters to get it to 1/2" for the wheel nut socket. I cant remember the size, a impact socket from my set fit it so its less than 32mm, maybe 27mm?

The races are pressed into the hub, atleast on my 2wd dually they were. I ALWAYS replace the races when i replace the bearings but if you are just repacking them then you dont need to if the bearings are races are good. You will need a new grease seal though

 

As mentioned all ready, there is a good chance you will need new inner grease seals as you often need to remove them to extract the inner bearing and they will not be re usable after.


I would strongly recommend getting the new seals and confirming that they are correct before pulling the old ones out, I've been screwed by this before and ended up having to wait for the parts store to get the seals in while my truck sat.

 

Thanks for all the info. Got home and got the driverside done along with new pads and rotor. Planning on finishing up the passanger side tomorrow.

Following it up with a transmission flesh and i should be ready for the trip on friday.

 

Bearings repacked, new pads and rotors, transmission flushed and back on the road......should be ready for the trip.

 

Great, have fun!