Hey guys! I just wanted to say thanks for all of the help you guys have given me in the past. I'm kinda at a peculiar spot.
I have a 1995 F250 4x4. I bought it not running and I have been slowly working on it along the way. So far I've done the following:
1. Rebuilt turbo
2. Rebuilt IPR
3. Rebuilt the fuel bowl
4. Rebuilt fuel pressure regulator
5. New fuel pump
6. New Cam Position Sensor
7. New glow plugs
8. New glow plug controller
9. New glow plug and injector wiring harnesses
10. New valve cover gaskets
11. New fuel filter
12. New fuel lines
13. Fresh oil change

So, I just did the oil change today and I wanted to see if I could at least just see if it was going to start up. I had a smaller battery in my shop, so I hooked it up to the passenger's side terminals. It turned over but it sounded slow and never would fire. Also, I DID NOT get a "wait to start" light. I also pulled my 2016 F250 over and hooked battery cables to the one battery. Again, it would turn over, but never seem to catch. The tach did bounce slowly. I had the "water In Fuel" light on.

When I did the fuel bowl rebuild, I just plugged the "water in fuel" port on the bottom of the fuel bowl. Also, I removed the fuel heater in the fuel bowl as well.

Ok, guys. Let's hear it. Am I jumping the gun here or does something else seem wrong?

 

Check fuse #22 under the hood fuse box.

 

Get 2good batteries. It will never start on one. The system voltage will be too low to operate the idm.
It sounds like you need to get the PCM working also.

 

No "Wait to Start" light means that the PCM isn't powering up. Like z31 suggested, check Maxi Fuse 22 under the hood. That fuse runs the pCm but also runs the fuel bowl heater so if it had shorted at some point, it could be blown, rendering the whole shebang a paperweight.

Here's a link to a no start flowchart I developed a couple years back. Hopefully it will help.

And yeah, you're gonna need 2 good batteries in it to crank it fast enough to make it fire. If the system voltage dips too low while cranking, the injectors won't fire (no white smoke out the tailpipe means no fuel is being injected).

 

Ok. So, I was suspicious of the one battery. I had an IDI that, in a pinch, would start with only one battery. I know these two are not apples and apples, but I was just hoping I would get lucky and hear it run.

 

Ok fellas! Here's where I'm at. I replaced the maxi fuse #22. It looked good but I still replaced it. So, I figured I would make sure that I was getting power to the fuse. Well, I'm not. I'm not getting anything to it. So, now I've got to figure out why. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for tracing the power back from the power distribution block back?

 

Check Fuse number 9 then, as well.

Fuse 22 powers the relay that turns on the PCM, fuse 9 is actually the circuit for the PCM.

Here's the PDC layout and legend.






If that doesn't do it, try swapping the PCM relay with another one from the PDC (horn relay is a good test).

 

I checked the fuse #9 and it was good, but I replaced it anyway with no results. I'll try to switch the relay's around later.

Do you think the diode could be the problem?

Should the #22 fuse have power even when the key is off?

 

I don't see it being the diode, but you can check it with a multimeter if you like. It should show continuity in one direction.

I don't think fuse 22 should be powered until the key is on, but I'd have to look again to be sure. I can't find the schematic right now.

 

Ok. So, I moved relays around and same scenario. Also, I turned the key to run and checked fuse #22 and now it's hot. So, that tells me that the diode, fuse, and relay are all good, right?
So, now does that mean I need a new PCM or do I need to trace the power from the distribution block to the PCM? I think I already know the answer to this, but I figured I would ask it anyway.

 

Have you checked to see if it has a chip ?

 

Well, I removed the PCM today and it didn't have a chip in it. However, it looks like the back side of it has been altered. The contacts on the back look like they have been sanded down some.

So, I guess the next logical question is where should I look to get mine repaired or replaced?

 

It probably just had a chip in the past and the po took it off

 

So, I have a TS 6 position programmer. Are you staying that I should try that or are you staying that perhaps the PO boned it with his chip?

 

He probably removed the chip while on a tune, instead of returning to stock then removing the chip.