A 9V battery should be more than enough to open a single injector. Your jig and results may solve your running issues. Good job.

 

I am guessing that there was enough sludge in there to keep a 9v from operating the valve.

I am going to re-test wit h a 9v, and will report back.

 

If you wouldn't mind I would like to see a pic of your injector jig.

 

Back side of probe, showing twisted junctions.
There's a hole drilled through the stick. The wire passes through the hole and around the end of the stick in extremely-fine saw-cuts in the end to positively locate the wire.




Front of probe. This side will be presented to the fuel injector terminals.




The butt-end of a 2-AA Mag-Lite will cut its own threads into the inside of a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe.

I tested continuity through the anodized finish on the cap, and found that the coating is non-conductive, so I abraded the surface around the lanyard hole to ensure reliable electrical contact for the twisted wire junction.

 

Well, those pics looked fine on my computer!

I'll see if I can do better, today.

 

Thank You!

 

You're welcome, Chris.

I have hit another bump in the road.

Last night I dropped the last upper-intake bolt.

You know the one.

It is the back, passenger-side corner.

I tried to retrieve it while my anger and frustration built up. Just as I was about to explode, my kind and patient wife showed up, and said I should consider waiting for morning to be a positive step.

A much, much wiser bear than I am.

I think it may be possible to illuminate the area behind the engine/on top of the transmission, and stick my cell phone camera in there to locate the cussed thing.

More will be revealed.

John

 

I got that bolt!

YES!

 

Cooler heads prevailed

 

She's a keeper!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Yup.

This truck, on the other hand . . .

Same o'l same ol'. . .

 

Next up: Fuel Pressure While Driving Test.

 

And the results are in!

I hooked up my fuel pressure gauge, and tailed it out the driver's side of the hood.

Then I drove to the store ~7 miles down a 2-lane State Highway.

30 PSI from here to the highway (bumpy, 1 1/2 lanes . . . the whole road is a speed bump).

I got on the highway, and hit maximum acceleration. The pressure climbed up to ~35, after a while. I was going 70 MPH, at that point, so I let off.

Long story short, if I was able to keep the pedal to the floor for long enough, the pressure would drop to ~22 PSI.

When I went into the store, the pressure was 30 PSI. No change when I came out.

When I parked the truck here at home, it was idling at 22 PSI, and if I goosed the throttle, it stumbled and popped.

I'll go back out in a few minutes to see if it is still holding pressure.

I AM FEELING VICTORIOUS!!!!

I have been reading a lot of threads (using the 'similar threads' links at the bottoms of these pages) and from what I can remember, the FP is supposed to go UP, when you put your foot in it.

I believe this new information will narrow down the list considerably.

I come up with two basic options.

1) Bad fuel pump.

2) Bad FP Regulator.

I am actually leaning towards 1), because I know the rear pump isn't working (it will blow the high-current fuse, if you leave it on long enough), and the fuel gauge isn't working on the front tank, either.

My next question is, can I test the FPR?

Some of you may recall that I pulled the vac line offa that thing, and the pressure went to 40.

I will re-do that test when I go check whether or not the system is holding pressure.

I'll go do that now!!

 

Ugh.

I feel like I'm on a roller coaster.

I got out to the truck, and the pressure was holding at 20 PSI.

I guess that's good.

Next, I cranked her up, and pulled the vac off the FPR.

Slowly, slowly she climbed up to 35.

Here's the kicker.

I decided that I would bleed the gauge, and I pressed the little button to do that. PSI dropped to zero, as expected, but when I let off the button, she stayed at zero.

The engine was running, and fuel pressure read zero. I'm pretty sure those two conditions are mutually exclusive.

The gauge was very slow to respond to anything during the road test. When you floor it, the FP is supposed to spike right up, right?

I am experiencing feelings of animosity and incipient hatred toward both Chinese manufacturers AND automotive engineers.

One more thing.

When I bled the gauge through the little clear tube, the gas that came through there was as yellow as urine.

Anybody know what gives?

 

I don't think gas is supposed to be that color.