System Pass for KOEO tests and System Pass for CM (stored) codes ((means no stored codes)).

 

Yes there are screen filters inside each injector. In light of the previous hacking done by the prior owner it may be worth pulling the injectors for an inspection. While they are out, you could rebuild them.

A link for a DIY injector rebuild: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...to-thread.html

 

For the sake of clarity, and to tie off the loose end, I DID run the KOEO self-test after the test drive, and I drew a pass.

Thanks and props to rla2005. I'm pretty sure I have never been treated so well as a a newbie under ANY circumstances.

If you get to Austin, Texas and you don't say 'Hey", you're gonna miss a mighty fine plate of barbecue!

John

 

I was in Galveston TX 4 weeks ago. Almost there....

I'll toast to you the next time I have some Tito's

Mmmmmm....Texas bbq

 

Back atcha, hombre!

With any luck, I'll be able to contribute something here.

 

Ugh.

One of my principal character flaws is a misguided optimism.

I have not yet rebuilt the injectors, just so y'all know.

I did purchase a fuel pressure tester, and performed a test. She reads 32 PSI at idle, and 40 PSI with the vacuum hose to the regulator disconnected.

I did find out how to do an engine running test, but I'm not sure that I'm doing it right.

I SEEM to be drawing codes 653, 853, 66 and 32, but I feel the flashes are not quite 'adding up', so to speak.

The 'system ok' is the initial 11 11 followed after a long pause by a single flash, correct?

Then I draw 653 (repeat) then 853 (repeat).

After that, it gets a little hard for me to grasp what the machine is showing me.


I was going to look up those codes just now to add their descriptions to this post, but the link y'all supplied earlier in the thread says it is down for maintenance.

What I am being shown is either 66, 32, 11, or 663, 211 or some other combo I can not even imagine.

The fly in the ointment is that some of these codes should not show up in the engine running test, according to the literature.

Do I have a prayer?

Thanks.

 

That is within specification under those conditions listed.


Go back to Post# 9: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16344433

You will not have a mix of two and three digit codes. It's one or the other. Your truck will display three digit codes. The ONE exception is some code readers interpret the "separator flash" between KOEO and CM as Code 10.

That's why I highly suggest you invest in a real code reader. The Equus 3145 is very affordable and eliminates counting the flashes.

 

OK!

I got the reader.

I had 543 (fuel pump secondary circuit failure) in memory.

This was after I had driven the truck for a while and the same old problem started up again.

I cleared the code. did KOEO, came up clean 111.

KOER test, came up clean. 111.

The garbled mess I was coming up with before was a combination of the '8', as in cylinders, and ignorance of the necessity of cycling the power steering, brake and WOT.

Clean codes.

I'll bet that good ol' 543 comes back after the truck misbehaves again.

I searched Google for answers to 543, and came up with a pretty informative thread on the Mustang forum (diagnosing DTC 543 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum).

I read that thread and about two dozen other 'hits'. The other two dozen yielded squat.

If you go to that thread, the author was going strictly by the service manual, and he started out by saying he was going to see it through and post results.

That's been two years ago and, as far as I can tell, his Mustang is still stumbling.

I refuse to accept that fate.

I actually borrowed money to buy this truck.

I need this truck.

I have been trying to get to the bottom of this for several months, and have found at least two dozen threads on various forums citing this exact set of symptoms, and NONE of them have ever been resolved, if the threads themselves are any reliable indication.

I pulled the relay, nice and shiny, functions perfectly.

Would a fuel pump act this way if it were failing? It still makes 40 PSI, with the vacuum off the regulator.

Any ideas?

THANKS!!!

 

OK.

I took the truck out for a spin yesterday, and drove it pretty hard.

For the first 10 miles it ran like the injectors were clogged, which they almost certainly are.

Then, the same ol', same ol'. Hesitation, complete lack of power . . . I headed back to the house, and limped along for several miles. Then things started to pick up a little, which has never happened before. It is usually the case that the truck stumbles home, then 'recovers' after being parked.

Remember that this truck has made 10 and 20 mile trips without showing any of these symptoms, and has done so multiple times in sequence.

Now for the kicker.

I went out this AM to do the KOEO boogie, and she has no stored codes.

Straight 111 all the way.

So, the dreaded 543 did not return, but the symptoms did. Then the symptoms dissipated.

For what it's worth, I now have enough confidence that clogged injectors are at the root of this issue that I will proceed to rebuild them pronto.

It may be that the damage to the fuel filter preceded Ol'Gooberhead's gentle attentions, and that the injectors were clogged to begin with.

In the words of the Dalai Lama, "More will be revealed."

 

If you want to check the PCM, loosen the wheel well liner on the driver side.
Then unscrew the 10mm bolt that holds the PCM in.

Remove the PCM and look inside for possible capacitor(s) failing.

The injector screens being filled with garbage from a destroyed fuel filter could very well be the cause OR trash in the fuel tank clogging the screen on the fuel pump.

 

Thanks.

Am I to understand that a failing PCM would still throw a '111' to the reader?

Also, will the PCM be susceptible to damage from static discharge upon removal? If so, what steps should I take to prevent this?

I suppose that trash in the tank could move around enough to block/unblock the screen.

I do have the rebuild kit for the injectors, and it almost certainly could use that attention, so I am going ahead with that.

Due to my inexperience and limited budget, I think the one-thing-at-a-time approach is best.

I will certainly chase this thing to the end.

Thanks again.


John

 

A common failure mode is no codes at all (not System Pass) or a slew of them.

Highly unlikely you will damage the PCM when removing it. i would suggest to remove the negative battery cable first.

Very plausible theory that could be confirmed by keeping the fuel pressure tester on while driving. Tape it to the windshield or stick it under the wiper arm. Very careful doing this!

Not a bad idea.

 

OK. Just to clarify, this is the first time the reader has shown a System Pass.

Further, that thread on the Corral (Mustang Forum) indicated that one possible cause of a 543 was a poor connection between B(+) and the fuse block/Relay. During my latest wrangle (day before yesterday) I attempted to pull the fuse panel off its mounting. I could only get the side nearest the firewall to disengage from the mounting clips, but I heaved on it something fierce in the attempt. I believe that it is marginally possible that this moved the wire enough to close the contact properly.

It wouldn't be the first time I have done something stupid with positive results.

Don't ask me how I met my wife!



Thank you for that .


I will make that a part of my next test drive.

Thanks, Randy. You are a kind and a patient man.

 

And the saga continues.

I have started tearing down the intake so I can access the passenger side fuel rail, and I have removed one of the fuel injectors.

I decided to give the under-hood part of this operation a break, 'Cause it's dang near 100ºF here, today, and there's no shade to be had.

I took the injector inside the shop, just to have a look, and a few details just sorta jumped out at me.

1) The kit I got does not include the little screens.

I don't like that.

2) I was under the impression that the business end of that thing was supposed to come off, and it does not seem so inclined. It will turn in relation to the rest of the injector, but it won't come off. I don't want to force it, if it's not supposed to go.

3) I took a couple of small, insulated alligator clips and connected them to the terminals, then connected the other ends to a 9v battery.

I am told that 9v should activate the coil and open the injector. Should I be able to hear it?

'Cause I can't hear it OR feel it open when I an holding it up to my ear.

Next, I will arrange a tube full of B-12 Chemtool to run through it if it opens. Just to see.

Thanks for any answers,

John

 

So 9v was not enough to open the injectors, even though the thread referenced said it was.

I made a 12v battery out of a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe, parts from a flashlight, and 8 AA batteries.

I taped that whole works to piece of Western Red Cedar which I had whittled down for a perfect fit against the injector terminals, ran a couple of 22 gauge wires through little drilled holes to line them up with the terminals, and PRESTO! the injectors open when I say so.

Next, I took the fuel filter that Ol' Gooberhead ruined (the one I cut off the truck and cut open to find the rattle) and used it as a funnel.

I made a stand for this contraption so I could fill the funnel with B-12 Chemtool, and run that stuff through a tube stretched over the injector.

Once the injector was in place and the funnel was charged, I plgged my 12v Injector Activator into the injector, and allowed the cleaner to run through it and into the mason jar reservoir.

Some of them started out VERY poorly, but picked up as I went along.

Never energized an injector for longer than about 5-10 seconds.

After I ran the cleaner through, I blew each one out with the air compressor.

Rinse and repeat 3 times.

They're all spiffy, now.