automatic shifts hard into second
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automatic shifts hard into second
hello all
I got this 89 ranger xlt with a 2.9 and automatic transmission off a guy for 500 dollars. I mainly bought it because it was in such good shape and I was planning on putting a 5.0 in it. everything works on it. the a/c, radio, lights and it runs real nice. the only problem it has is it shifts pretty hard going into second gear. every once in a while it will shift smoothly into second but only like once or twice a day. he said he had recently changed the trans filter and fluid and the fluid does not smell burnt. any suggestions? thanks
I got this 89 ranger xlt with a 2.9 and automatic transmission off a guy for 500 dollars. I mainly bought it because it was in such good shape and I was planning on putting a 5.0 in it. everything works on it. the a/c, radio, lights and it runs real nice. the only problem it has is it shifts pretty hard going into second gear. every once in a while it will shift smoothly into second but only like once or twice a day. he said he had recently changed the trans filter and fluid and the fluid does not smell burnt. any suggestions? thanks
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
Likes: 39
From: suburban atlanta
Two things come to mind: linkage and modulator.
If there is a 'throttle pressure' linkage that connects the carburetor/throttle body to a lever on the side of the transmission, it may need inspection and adjustment.
If there is a vacuum line to a diaphragm mounted on the transmission(right rear, I think), it may be leaky or sticky.
Both will affect shift, and shift speed, keeping the transmission in lower gears for a longer time when vacuum is low, or the throttle more open than 'normal'. It could also be something in the valve body, as was suggested by Pawpaw.
A third(4th?) would be an incorrect install of the filter, leading to peaks and valleys in the fluid flow and thus oil pressure operating all the gizzards.
I think you have an A4LD. Do you have an OD gear selection at the lever? Most times, the OD parts break before the other things. It has a modulator where I mentioned it.
You could also have sticky servo pistons, or a governor that binds and then releases all of a sudden.
tom
If there is a 'throttle pressure' linkage that connects the carburetor/throttle body to a lever on the side of the transmission, it may need inspection and adjustment.
If there is a vacuum line to a diaphragm mounted on the transmission(right rear, I think), it may be leaky or sticky.
Both will affect shift, and shift speed, keeping the transmission in lower gears for a longer time when vacuum is low, or the throttle more open than 'normal'. It could also be something in the valve body, as was suggested by Pawpaw.
A third(4th?) would be an incorrect install of the filter, leading to peaks and valleys in the fluid flow and thus oil pressure operating all the gizzards.
I think you have an A4LD. Do you have an OD gear selection at the lever? Most times, the OD parts break before the other things. It has a modulator where I mentioned it.
You could also have sticky servo pistons, or a governor that binds and then releases all of a sudden.
tom
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
^+1 I like tomw's ideas. The vacuum modulator & vacuum line to it are common problem parts in shifting woes & the vintage of this puppy causes them to have earned a spot high up on your suspect list. If the modulator diaphragm is dry rotted & leaking vacuum, it can suck tranny fluid up the intake manifold vacuum line fitting & into the engine. If the tranny has been slowly using fluid & you can't find a external weep/leak, pull the modulator vacuum line at the modulator, or its intake manifold connection & look to see if its damp/wet with tranny fluid inside. If its wet with tranny fluid, the modulator located mid way back on the passenger side of the tranny needs to be replaced. If the vacuum line to it is dry, hard, cracked, or soft & mushy, especially at its fittings, it needs to be replaced too, as the hose run & it's connections on Both ends need to be vacuum tight, no leaks.
Has the shift problem come about suddenly after some event, or slowly over time???
Has the shift problem come about suddenly after some event, or slowly over time???
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Before I ncould find time to check the modulator and vacuum lines I had to go down to the truck shop that is working on my semi tractor. The rear end differential with power divider was pulled out and I took it to a rebuilder to be repaired. The mechanics said it weighed about 800 pounds. I think it probably was more like 400 to 500 pounds. Anyway, after hauling it back and forth, when I left the shop and drove maybe 10 miles the transmission started dumping fluid. I checked the fluid level and was still on the stick barely. So now it is sitting in the drive and I am waiting to let it cool down some. The motor temp did not go past half way. it usually runs at about 1/3. Wonder if this is linked or two separate problems.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
How/Where was it "dumping" fluid? Was the tranny overheating, or was it that it wasn't properly filled/under/over/filled & the fluid became aerated, expanded & foamed out the tranny vent, or have you developed a line, fitting, or gasket leak?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,907
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From: suburban atlanta
The transmission was likely hotter than usual.. and the fluid expanded, and did a little foaming, which leads to more foaming. Long and short is that the pump bushing drainback behind the front pump seal was not drilled and matched as well as it could have been at the factory. For 99% of the time it will get by, but get it hot, and look out.
At least I think that is what happened. There are articles on the web about 'relieving' the flow channels to allow better drainback of the fluid that gushes past the bushing(the torque converter hub).
I would get it back to normal temperature, and re-fill the transmission fluid to the proper level. A true reading must be taken at full operating temperature on flat and level ground. If you have to add, add in little increments. Take your time.
If you are more concerned, take it to a shop. Is the fluid burned or darkened?(cooked) If so, it has really gotten hot for more than a 10 mile trip, or is old fluid, and likely a change and filter renewal would be a good attack.
tom
At least I think that is what happened. There are articles on the web about 'relieving' the flow channels to allow better drainback of the fluid that gushes past the bushing(the torque converter hub).
I would get it back to normal temperature, and re-fill the transmission fluid to the proper level. A true reading must be taken at full operating temperature on flat and level ground. If you have to add, add in little increments. Take your time.
If you are more concerned, take it to a shop. Is the fluid burned or darkened?(cooked) If so, it has really gotten hot for more than a 10 mile trip, or is old fluid, and likely a change and filter renewal would be a good attack.
tom
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