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I am wondering if there is a way to look inside the coolant passages to see if the walls are cavitated. Maybe one of those inspection cameras. I would do a compression check but the guy who I bought the truck from had it pulled apart already. Basically the top of the engine is off. I will rebuid if the block is good.
I think you are more likely to see it on the cylinder wall side. If I were you, id reseal the oil cooler and get some new head gaskets, put it together, then fill it with water and pressure test it. Pull the drain plug or oil pan and the glow plugs and look for leaks. Cavitation is pretty rare.
Is there anything else I should check before putting it back together? Does the firing order look like that in the first picture. It just seems like it would not be balanced if it fired in the cylinders where the pistons are up. Is there a possibility some thing could be wrong with the crank. I'm going to put new main seals and micro sleeves if needed. This is going in my dad and my work truck I want it to run great ant last forever.
I have never had an engine apart this far, but i dont think that piston looks to happy.
Show me a closer picture of what you mean by "doesn't look too happy".
To me, this engine looks just fine. Consistent soot patterns, no rust or anything indicating coolant leaking into the cylinder, head gasket looks in good shape...
You could probably put it back together, fix the oil cooler and have it run for quite a while, if it has decent compression.
Closer and more detailed photos would help make a better prognosis. Obviously, the front passenger side cylinder is brighter than the others. The cylinder walls look good, from here, with no ridge at the top of the cylinders.
Since you have it apart this far, I would pull the lifters and check the rollers and the surface of the cam.
1. What is the white-ish ring on the piston above the oil dipstick?
2. Two of the pistons have finger marks on them, is the piston cracked or is that a casting flaw, or a hair on my computer screen?
3. Any idea why the po stopped the work?
4. Did someone draw a circle on the block using paint or chalk?
in 33 years, i have seen exactly 2 ford diesels with cavatation. and both were severly abused.
i have seen more 6.2 and 6.5 chevy engines cavatated, the bus company we serviced at the body shop had 9 in the 12 years we fixed their minibuses
Sorry i took a bit to get back. The only camera I had was a cell phone so i borrowed my dads. Upon closer inspection I think you guys are right there seems to be nothing wrong. When I said the pistons didn't look happy it was from my inexperience.
That spot that looked like a crack was only something that had dried on the piston. after i took the picture i wiped it off with my finger.
All of the cylinders that I can see are in about the same condition.
Years ago I had a 91 7.3 in a van that had coolant in #4 cyl. I pulled the head, cleaned the deck surface, covered the deck in duct tape and cut the tape at the top of #4. I could then put water in it and my crack in the cyl wall showed up. It didn't need pressure to show the crack, just the water level to the top of the block. In your case clean both sides, duct tape the deck and cut out around all cyls. It took only a few minutes for my leak to show up.
Thanks you guys that sounds exactly like what I was looking to do before i put it back together. I'll put the duct tape on and then turn the crank by hand while the water is in the coolant passages. Unless anyone thinks that is a bad idea. I just want to make sure that the engine will have a long life after I put every thing back.
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