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Hey guys...still trying to track down the following electrical issue, 74 f250:
First off, the truck has a new painless harness, a 3g alt upgrade and a pretty hefty stereo in it. I don't know if any of these are the issue, but possibly.
On startup, all the of the electrical works fine. 14.2 at the battery with all accessories running. As long as I sit at idle, everything is A-0K.
When I pull away, the headlights will start to dim and sometimes completely go off for just a split second. While this happens, the voltmeter is dancing all over the place, sometimes as low as 10.
The number at the battery seems to indicate an OK charging system, so I'm thinking a wiring issue in the headlight circuit, but here's the thing....after about a minute of driving everything is fine....voltmeter is steady between 13-14 and the headlights are strong and solid. Based on that, I would think voltage regulator, but I've had the same issue with two different 3g alternators.
Basically I'm lost at this point...any help would be greatly appreciated.
+1 on the relay system...instead of relying on the harness and switch to carry all the current to the headlights, you put in a coupel of new, short heavy gauge wires to carry the load. I would estimate an easy 50% increase in headlight brightness when I did mine. Even though you put in new harness, you are still running current through the old headlight and dimmer switches. I suspect one of them has an iffy contact which starts with a bad contact, and the intermittent contact heats up after a few seconds to the point where it is making good contact. Just a theory.... One other thing to check - when you installed the new harness did you actually clean the grounds or just install the wires to the old screws? If the latter, a little sandpaper at the contact points to shine things up would also improve the circuit.
I got clean grounds on all my new wiring. Tonight I'm going to replace the main ground from battery to block and clean up my block to frame ground to see if that helps.
As a side note, I noticed my front marker lights are not illuminating now, so I'm sure that's related. I'll keep you posted, but any other ideas are appreciated.
Hey guys...still trying to track down the following electrical issue, 74 f250:
First off, the truck has a new painless harness, a 3g alt upgrade and a pretty hefty stereo in it. I don't know if any of these are the issue, but possibly.
On startup, all the of the electrical works fine. 14.2 at the battery with all accessories running. As long as I sit at idle, everything is A-0K.
When I pull away, the headlights will start to dim and sometimes completely go off for just a split second. While this happens, the voltmeter is dancing all over the place, sometimes as low as 10.
The number at the battery seems to indicate an OK charging system, so I'm thinking a wiring issue in the headlight circuit, but here's the thing....after about a minute of driving everything is fine....voltmeter is steady between 13-14 and the headlights are strong and solid. Based on that, I would think voltage regulator, but I've had the same issue with two different 3g alternators.
Basically I'm lost at this point...any help would be greatly appreciated.
Originally Posted by 2_Tone
I got clean grounds on all my new wiring. Tonight I'm going to replace the main ground from battery to block and clean up my block to frame ground to see if that helps.
As a side note, I noticed my front marker lights are not illuminating now, so I'm sure that's related. I'll keep you posted, but any other ideas are appreciated.
Good day! I am in the same boat. It has done it since I bought it. Have upgraded to 120 amp alternator, new dimmer, and new headlight switch. Cleaned up wiring and soldered new connections. I installed a voltmeter and it will dip to 10 volts, headlights flicker, blower motor will draw down...But just as yours, after a few hundred yards down the road, it stops! I have the relay harness I am going to install tomorrow and I am hoping it fixes it. I tried turning on the headlights and wiggling all the wiring I could get to but was unable to make lights flicker. I was wondering if the harness fixed your issues or not. Thanks for your time.
The relay fixed mine. At least I'm pretty sure it did. I also cleaned up a block to frame ground and added a ground from the inner fender to the underside of the hood, which is supposed to be there...but mine wasn't. So, one of those things cleared it up.
The relay fixed mine. At least I'm pretty sure it did. I also cleaned up a block to frame ground and added a ground from the inner fender to the underside of the hood, which is supposed to be there...but mine wasn't. So, one of those things cleared it up.
Good luck on yours!
Thank you 2 tone! I bought a tube of dielectric grease for the connectors, and I also thought about adding more grounds as well...It can't hurt. I am going to work on it later today and see whats up. I appreciate the info!
Check the tension and condition of the alternator drive belt.
It can slip on acceleration and cause those very symptoms.
Michael
Well I just finished installing the relay harness...Holy cow are those lights bright! True test will be tomorrow morning at 6:00 to see if they still flicker. I took it for a spin and I still see the voltage dropping a bit and I might have heard a little belt squeal, so i think i will change the belt. I have a hard time tightening it because i have to tug on the alternator with one hand and tighten the bolts with the other. My radio is cutting out when I accelerate or hit a bump. It doesnt lose its presets or anything, just powers off then back on. I may pull the dash and check it out or remove it altogether. Do they still make the headliner with speakers in it?
I think I've seen a headliner or maybe a thing that fits along the top of the windshield that has a radio mount and speakers but since I can't see stop lights due to the height of the windshield, I'm sticking with the radio shack cheapo installed in the late 90's
If the boss on the alternator that the curved bracket is bolted to is a biggish square lug, I usually put a 10" or 12" Crescent wrench on it and pull hard. But not too hard. I look for about 1/2" deflection in the middle of the longest run when I push hard with one finger.
I think I've seen a headliner or maybe a thing that fits along the top of the windshield that has a radio mount and speakers but since I can't see stop lights due to the height of the windshield, I'm sticking with the radio shack cheapo installed in the late 90's
If the boss on the alternator that the curved bracket is bolted to is a biggish square lug, I usually put a 10" or 12" Crescent wrench on it and pull hard. But not too hard. I look for about 1/2" deflection in the middle of the longest run when I push hard with one finger.
Michael
Michael
Thanks, Michael...I hadn't thought to grab that with anything. I did find a headliner with speakers built in but its near $300. I will just have to pull the Retrosound unit out and see what kind of wiring job the previous owner did. I have to replace the instrument cluster lens so that would be a good time to do it.
I have the LMC cluster lens. It's OK but the mold maker put the ejector pins just left and right of center on the speedo section. Drives me crazy to see 2 1/4" circles in the middle of my otherwise perfect speedo!
The radio may be as simple as a poor ground. If the installer counted on the volume and tune shaft nuts making a good connection, they chose badly. Same goes for using the antenna as a ground.
I have the LMC cluster lens. It's OK but the mold maker put the ejector pins just left and right of center on the speedo section. Drives me crazy to see 2 1/4" circles in the middle of my otherwise perfect speedo!
The radio may be as simple as a poor ground. If the installer counted on the volume and tune shaft nuts making a good connection, they chose badly. Same goes for using the antenna as a ground.
Michael
I could see the ground when I took the dash apart and it looks to be in a good spot, but I am wondering if the power wire or inline fuse holder is bad. I have a Garmin tapped into the same fuse as the radio, and that never loses power.
I could see the ground when I took the dash apart and it looks to be in a good spot, but I am wondering if the power wire or inline fuse holder is bad. I have a Garmin tapped into the same fuse as the radio, and that never loses power.
Well guys...Still flickering. But since I have a working voltmeter I noticed something interesting. As I was pulling into the gas station this morning, there was a slight incline in the pavement. When I hit it, voltage dropped. As I pulled back into the roadway, same thing...Roadway dipped, so did my voltage. Thinking my body grounds are shot so I am going to do some serious grounding tonight. Block to frame, frame to body, firewall to hood. Whatcha think?
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