Hot no start
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Hot no start
I have a 302 efi that runs well when it starts, but after running for 15 minutes or so it will not even turn over. If I wait 20 or 30 minutes it will fire right up.
Today, I started it, forgot something in the house and shut it off and came back out and it didn't turn over after only 30 seconds of running.
What in the world is wrong?
Today, I started it, forgot something in the house and shut it off and came back out and it didn't turn over after only 30 seconds of running.
What in the world is wrong?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
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From: Angier, NC
Need a little more information. You say will not turn over do you get anything like a click or lights on the dash that go out when you turn the key?
Also time to pull out you multi meter to check voltage.
On the batt posts what volts do you get when it will not start?
Same thing but on the batt. term/cables volts?
Neg batt to pos. cable on the solenoid?
Neg connection at motor to pos. cable on solenoid?
This will be a little harder because you need to turn the key to start to check this but any ground to the starter cable side of solenoid when no start?
Same thing but at starter from any ground when no start.
I am in favor if all the batt cables are old to just replace them. You can not tell if good or bad by looking at them only if you cut them open.
You could also just try cleaning all the batt cable connections & batt. posts as they may just have a bad connection.
Dave ----
Also time to pull out you multi meter to check voltage.
On the batt posts what volts do you get when it will not start?
Same thing but on the batt. term/cables volts?
Neg batt to pos. cable on the solenoid?
Neg connection at motor to pos. cable on solenoid?
This will be a little harder because you need to turn the key to start to check this but any ground to the starter cable side of solenoid when no start?
Same thing but at starter from any ground when no start.
I am in favor if all the batt cables are old to just replace them. You can not tell if good or bad by looking at them only if you cut them open.
You could also just try cleaning all the batt cable connections & batt. posts as they may just have a bad connection.
Dave ----
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The lights stay on and (the seat belt buzzer continues to buzz in fact) no clicking when I turn the key.
The weird thing is I started it and it ran for 30 seconds and then I turned it off. When I came back out to restart it the lights stayed on and no clicking, no turning over, nothing. 30 minutes later, it started like nothing had happened.
The weird thing is I started it and it ran for 30 seconds and then I turned it off. When I came back out to restart it the lights stayed on and no clicking, no turning over, nothing. 30 minutes later, it started like nothing had happened.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I agree with Fuzzy in that the primary connections & cables are good to investigate & ensure are clean and in good shape.
BUT
You say "...the lights stayed on and no clicking, no turning over, nothing" I am assuming you're referring to the dashboard indicators. And you say the seat belt buzzer continued to buzz... and I'll bet a factory-wired radio would even continue to play... all of that smacks of ignition switch problems... the ignition switch itself, located on top of the column behind the dash and NOT the key cylinder/tumbler.
Ford had designed these systems such that virtually ALL battery power except for the headlights & markers (safety issue) is directed to the starter motor & ignition/fuel delivery with the key in START.
BUT
You say "...the lights stayed on and no clicking, no turning over, nothing" I am assuming you're referring to the dashboard indicators. And you say the seat belt buzzer continued to buzz... and I'll bet a factory-wired radio would even continue to play... all of that smacks of ignition switch problems... the ignition switch itself, located on top of the column behind the dash and NOT the key cylinder/tumbler.
Ford had designed these systems such that virtually ALL battery power except for the headlights & markers (safety issue) is directed to the starter motor & ignition/fuel delivery with the key in START.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
I was thinking if an auto the NSS being out of adjustment but now that you bring up what stays on when trying to start you may be on the right track with the switch.
Dave ----
Dave ----
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From: Virginia
One way to test the other guys theory; Go out under the hood when it won't start, and look for the starter solenoid(relay) in the picture below. With the key in run, and the TRANSMISSION IN PARK OR NEUTRAL take a small wire and jump #3 to #5 in the picture below and see if it will crank, and it might even start if the key is in run.
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One way to test the other guys theory; Go out under the hood when it won't start, and look for the starter solenoid(relay) in the picture below. With the key in run, and the TRANSMISSION IN PARK OR NEUTRAL take a small wire and jump #3 to #5 in the picture below and see if it will crank, and it might even start if the key is in run.
Loose connections perhaps?
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Do you have a voltmeter or test light? If so, disconnect the small red/light-blue-stripe wire (#5) from the relay and hook up your meter/testlight to a good ground and that red/blue wire. Then turn the ignition key to START, what reading do you have? You should have battery voltage at that wire.
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From: Virginia
Like was said in the previous post, you have a problem getting voltage to point #5. This gets voltage from the neutral safety switch and the the neutral safety switch gets voltage from the ignition switch. All on a red/blue wire. If you suspect the neutral safety switch, play with the tranny lever the next time it won't start.
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