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6 Volt Grounding Points

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Old Jun 1, 2016 | 07:16 PM
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6 Volt Grounding Points

On my 55 (6-v pos ground), I have a grounds located:
1. Battery grounded to frame.
2. A ground cable from starter mount bolt to battery ground post (which is grounded to frame).
3. Braided ground wire from one of the transmission bolts to the firewall.

Am I missing anything or should I be good to go? I was thinking of running one more ground cable from somewhere on the engine directly to the frame but that might not be necessary considering the starter bolt ground.

Appreciate anyone's feedback. Steve
 
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Old Jun 1, 2016 | 07:24 PM
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You can never have too many grounds...I use bonding straps all around the truck just to ensure that there is a good path for current in all areas of the truck. There is a term used in systems engineering called "single point of failure"...with only one grounding strap, any loss of that point will now cause a system failure.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2016 | 07:28 PM
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I happen to be wiring my '53 (6v- pos ground). I'm attempting a stock rebuild. I had been wondering where the connection was to ground the cab. Is transmission to firewall the stock setup? Also, I posted a query regarding which wires used the three posts on a three-post terminal block. I got no responses. Do you know? I'm also going to wiring up a small switched light in the rear to function as a back-up light. It sounds a lot like your fog lights, only on the back of the truck. Are you doing anything for back-up lights?
 

Last edited by jvmcc; Jun 1, 2016 at 07:30 PM. Reason: additional question
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Old Jun 1, 2016 | 08:00 PM
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To the best of my knowledge, the trans to firewall ground is the correct stock set-up. I am trying to visualize that 3 post terminal block-do you have a photo or describe where it's located? I am not using back-up lights but have seen switches that mount to the gear linkage arms for 3 speed column shift set-ups.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2016 | 08:59 PM
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Adding grounds never hurt. Also make sure there is no paint interrupting your grounds. I was having issues and ground off the paint around the battery to frame and starter to frame and it made a huge difference. I still have a couple more to add before I'm done.

Also, I had 00 cables made for battery and starter. They aren't cheap and I don't think you can buy them off the shelf, but they are worth it.
Here is new versus original started cables:

 
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Old Jun 1, 2016 | 11:23 PM
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With new 00 cables and good grounds that 6 volt battery will spin that starter like a top!
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Steves55
To the best of my knowledge, the trans to firewall ground is the correct stock set-up. I am trying to visualize that 3 post terminal block-do you have a photo or describe where it's located? I am not using back-up lights but have seen switches that mount to the gear linkage arms for 3 speed column shift set-ups.
Here's a not so great photo showing what I assume is the correct mounting location for the three post terminal block. It is immediately to the left of the horn relay. The block itself is hard to see, but all the yellow 10 ga. wires going to it are visible.



Fot my back up light, I was just going to put a switch in under the dash. It won't go on automatically when I put it in reverse, but it'll be better than just using the light from the tail lights and brake lights to see what's behind me.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 12:34 PM
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Right now, my battery is grounded to the frame; would it be better if it was grounded to the engine or does it matter? I do have a cable running from my starter mounting bolt to the ground post of the battery.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Steves55
Right now, my battery is grounded to the frame; would it be better if it was grounded to the engine or does it matter? I do have a cable running from my starter mounting bolt to the ground post of the battery.
I have my battery grounded to the frame and the starter mounting bolt grounded to the frame in another location.
I have heard suggestions to have a ground strap from engine to frame and cab to engine. It probably would be good to have a cab to frame ground as well. I will be doing at least two of these soon. (My truck is in the middle of wiring at the moment.)
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Steves55
Right now, my battery is grounded to the frame; would it be better if it was grounded to the engine or does it matter? I do have a cable running from my starter mounting bolt to the ground post of the battery.
I had donor e250 van it had a one ground cable that went from the battery and had a side clip that went to the frame and then the same cable went on to a bolt on the engine block
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 03:37 PM
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I've got my ground wire well connected to the frame at a point close to the solenoid. And, I have a ground between the starter and the frame. It is also a decent connection: I connected it to a clean bright steel spot on the frame. I still have to make a connection to ground the cab. If a ground strap was run from the transmission to the firewall, I guess that would do it.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 05:38 PM
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Back-up lights were never required by law (Fed or any state, at least at the last time I had to take a test) but most require that if installed they must be automatically switched. Simple enough to add a mechanical brake light switch to the linkage.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 11:37 AM
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Although the positive & negative cables from my battery and the cable from the solenoid to the starter are OO gauge, the additional ground cable running from the starter mounting bolt back to the positive ground battery post is the same gauge used for 12 volt systems. Should that cable be OO gauge as well or doe it not matter? I am also using a 12 volt type to ground the engine to the firewall as well. Always appreciate the help! Steve
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 02:36 PM
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There is nothing on the frame or body that draws as much as a starter. The ground cable should go from the battery to the block or bellhousing. Starters easily draw 400 amps or more. The sum of all the other loads in the truck is way under 100 amps.
 
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