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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Differential issues

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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 09:23 AM
  #16  
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Nice pics Xavier. Reps on their way.
Seems crazy that this problem just started with a tranny and transfer case replacement, when the issue is really, rear end related.
Maybe the e brake line got pinched or crimped when replacing the tranny?
It's got to be e brake or limited slip differential related. Do you change diff gear oil at the same time?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 12:57 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by r2millers
Nice pics Xavier. Reps on their way.
Seems crazy that this problem just started with a tranny and transfer case replacement, when the issue is really, rear end related.
Maybe the e brake line got pinched or crimped when replacing the tranny?
It's got to be e brake or limited slip differential related. Do you change diff gear oil at the same time?
Yeah, I hear ya there. I just had pinion seal an u joints done at the dealer. Well, wouldn't you know it. I now have a slight Vibration. Called them up and their going to check it out.

I'd check those backing plates before tearing it down. It should be visible once you start poking around back there.

if that's the case, there's a couple tricks pass down to me from Jack (TooManyToys), on holding the parking brake cable to remove it from the bracket on the back of the backing plate.

There's some great people here!!
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 02:40 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
I would still check the brake assemblies on the locking side, both disc and DIH parking.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2016 | 05:28 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Superdutyangel219
Correct. Got a idea. The carrier is out and everything looks and sound great but what's your thoughts?
It's not your transmission or transfer case, and I'd bet money it's not your diff. My guess is it is brake related. Some have mentioned parking brake issues...I've seen this on vehicles where going forward the brake activates but reverse allows wheel to roll, or vice-versa.

Also sometimes a stuck caliper will lockup in only one direction due to pad wear, but will allow wheel to move somewhat in other direction
 
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 01:24 AM
  #20  
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From: Spanaway
Originally Posted by xaviar
^^^^^^^^^^^
What he said.
Backing plates rust out and holding pins for shoes comes out. Resultin in pins rolling around in drum of rotor and shoes coming loose. Ask me how I know?

Mine kept making a poping noise everytime I made a left turn and could here it if I had the window down. Pins were laying inside drum when I took them off.

I would say to look there like what's been mentioned above. It's a big job. You'll need special socket to take nuts off and you'll end up replacing seals on hub. Get all your parts and tools first. You'll see in my pics my seals were shot. I replaced shoes and pads, 6 cans of brake clean and Ford seals only. Repack bearings. 187K on my rig.

Crawl under truck and check the backing plate with a screwdriver or punch and see if it goes through. Have a good light to check them. Auto Zone had the backing plates in Dorman. 70 bucks for both. Ford wanted 225.00 a side!!!

No more poping noise.

Sounds like a bad case of Me 2.

I need to do mine. I have all the parts now all I need is the ambition.
If you happen to see my ambition please tell it to get home so I can get things done.
Right now I am running right rear with no parking shoes in place do to it
getting stuck and hot going down the road.


xaviar what did you use for packing the bearings when installing them?
Any hints you think are good to share?


I got lucky on the tools. I happened to be at the local pawn store and found
the special socket in there discount bin. $9.00 and it an OTC one.


Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 06:06 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko

Sounds like a bad case of Me 2.

I need to do mine. I have all the parts now all I need is the ambition.
If you happen to see my ambition please tell it to get home so I can get things done.
Right now I am running right rear with no parking shoes in place do to it
getting stuck and hot going down the road.


xaviar what did you use for packing the bearings when installing them?
Any hints you think are good to share?


I got lucky on the tools. I happened to be at the local pawn store and found
the special socket in there discount bin. $9.00 and it an OTC one.


Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder
Hi Sean, I ended up using premium hi temp bearing grease from AZ. It was a recommendation from someone who does these all the time. A premium type. If I had to do it over again I would probably go back to my old reliable valvoline bearing grease with moly? Ive been using the valvoline for 35 years with no issues. But the premium version is what I went with on this one. I'll post a pic of the two.

Now archoil has premium bearing grease i would have used also, but I didn't want to wait 4 more days for it to get to me. I will be ordering a tube of the archoil grease to try out though. I still need to do the front end bearings (nothing wrong with them, just so time for some maintenance up there) so see how well it hold out. I like the write up on it.

So far so good right now. No leaks and she stops and hods her place well.

I would encourage you to not wait on this repair no longer. Your ambition has returned to you as of this writing I feel. You mentioned you have all the parts now. Get her done
 
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Old Jun 11, 2016 | 03:31 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Superdutyangel219
I have a 04 F250 6.0 and change transmission and transfer case. Now all of a sudden the rear passenger tire is locking up but the rear driver side still moves. Any ideas? I've dropped the carrier and the ring and pinion looks great and so does the spider gears any ideas guys before I dump more money then need on whole new rear....
Hey Superdutyangel. Did you check those backing plates for rust through? Was that the problem?

Wondering?
 
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