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I used to carry a 15 amp battery charger on my truck. When folks just wanted a temporary fix until they got back to their dealer, I loaned it to them and they would ship it back to me. Finally someone stole it. The 15 amp ran everything in everything.
I have put my clamp meter on many a power converter. What impressed me most was how little power they actually drew. Some times when I am checking a system I put my clamp on the main or else just put my Progressive box on at the shoreline. That way I can watch what draws what.
Furnace is the big DC draw at about 8 amps. Boards are next to nothing. A slide motor ramps up the draw, but comes right back down and if you have a working battery it shares the load. Having a good battery makes a difference.
Folks worry a lot about this stuff, but in the field it is mostly a non-issue. All converters eventually fail, but usually they live a reasonable life before they croak.
I used to carry a 15 amp battery charger on my truck.
Originally Posted by RV_Tech
All converters eventually fail, but usually they live a reasonable life before they croak.
Steve
Our camper's charger side of the converter was not working. I used a car charger to get the battery alive and make a test run at a campsite until my replacement converter arrived and was installed.
If I had a little more electrical knowledge I'd figure out what failed.
Folks worry a lot about this stuff, but in the field it is mostly a non-issue. All converters eventually fail, but usually they live a reasonable life before they croak.
Steve
Originally Posted by LeoJr
Our camper's charger side of the converter was not working. I used a car charger to get the battery alive and make a test run at a campsite until my replacement converter arrived and was installed.
If I had a little more electrical knowledge I'd figure out what failed.
I betcha most of the failures have something to do with the solder joints. My FIL was telling me that about 10 years ago the solder composition changed it doesn't bond as well. When was looking at my board, there were cracks everywhere on all the major joints. He just put his magnifiers (a set of head gear with magnifying lens. ) down and went to work after checking the diodes and other electronics on the board. Literally in 20 minutes he was done. There was also a small arc patch on the metal structure that holds the board up. However, when he tested it, there was no trouble found.
FYI, my FiL works in the electronics industry dealing some interesting electrical control components. Resoldering and testing the board was child's play for him. As he put it, 120 volts goes in, 13.6 volts should come out. it is a battery charger. We will had this big resistor to generate load. Then measure for voltage drop and and amps with amp clamp. It passed the test bench. Handed it off to me and said if I can reinstall and give it a whirl with a full load.