When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Cool! What power valve? This site says the CE132 or D9TZ-9A565-A valve (red w/ silver dots) is a two-stage and the 1st stage opens @ 9–11.5 in/Hg & 2nd stage @ 4.5–7.5 in/Hg.
It's always wise to inspect the carb innards after all these years, because previous owners sometimes do strange things. Even if the correct # Jet size appears to be installed keep in mind they may have been drilled out.
Gary, I've narrowed it down to 4 possibilities, 2 of which are the OD 4-speed, which I don't think I have. Would the shifter have 3 speeds numbered with the 4th labeled as OD?
Anyways, what I'm coming up with is:
4-53K-R10
4-53K-R11
(Both of the above have the same desc.: "F-250 - - 2/W/D-4/M/T- exc. Hi-Altitude carb", so I don't know what would be the differentiating factor)
The last two possibilities are for the two 4-speed OD trans:
4-53L-R10
4-53L-R11
(Both of the above have the same desc.: "F-250 - - 2/W/D-4/M/OD/T- exc. Hi-Altitude carb", again, I don't know what would differentiate the two)
The truck's jamb sticker says it's under 8500, conforms to federal emissions and it is a 2WD with a 4-speed that has the regular Reverse position (far right and down.)
Of course all 4 calibration codes list different part list numbers so I don't know what that's going to yield for possible carb numbers. With any luck, the jet sizes will be the same for all 4 carbs...
Yes, the shifter would probably say "OD". Does yours? Or, can you post a pic of the Certification Label on the door jamb? I can decode what tranny it came with.
Cool! What power valve? This site says the CE132 or D9TZ-9A565-A valve (red w/ silver dots) is a two-stage and the 1st stage opens @ 9–11.5 in/Hg & 2nd stage @ 4.5–7.5 in/Hg.
I am using a conventional (single-stage) economizer valve that came in an Autolite 4100 rebuild kit. The size is 6.5. Although I *do* have an NOS two-stage economizer valve that I purchased last year from Dennis Carpenter, part number CE135 or E0TZ-9A565-B. This one was *supposed* to be correct for 1980 - 1984 Ford F-Series/Bronco. The 1st stage opens @ 10.5", and the 2nd @ 5.0".
I was thinking about replacing the single-stage with the factory correct two-stage, but I don't have the deeper cover yet to use it. Being as I have a heavy, full-size truck powered by a relatively small engine, I think the two-stage economizer valve *may* be more efficient, especially considering I have an AOD.
The two-stage should give a bit better economy - assuming you open the current one fairly often. If not, then the two-stage could hurt. But, as you point out, the AOD is going to cause the vacuum to drop quickly - especially in OD.
My shifter does not say OD. I also see that those calibration codes are for 4WD but I double checked and they are the same for the 4- 2WD ones I posted. I took them off of the very first image you posted on this thread "model application to parts list cross reference".
The two-stage should give a bit better economy - assuming you open the current one fairly often. If not, then the two-stage could hurt. But, as you point out, the AOD is going to cause the vacuum to drop quickly - especially in OD.
I guess I need to get to swappin'.
You don't happen to have the part number for the deeper economizer valve cover that was used on the Motorcraft 2150 with the 2-stage economizer valve, do you?
That is why I love this site. You never know what you are going to learn next.
And, as luck would have it, one of the two codes you gave (4-53L-R10 & 4-53L-R11) is the right one for your truck, although we won't know which one for sure. However, both use carb E4TE-AMA and component list 95.2AK. And, that's the info I posted on the previous page as using jets 51F. And, the way I read the catalog, your carb should take the same power valve as Rick's carb - the CE-132.
As for when the valve opens, you tell with a vacuum gauge and driving, or pull the valve and read the numbers or paint dots on it - if they exist. To do it by driving, hook up a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum. As you drive, not sit in the driveway, the vacuum will drop as you give the engine more throttle. At some point the air/fuel ratio starts getting weak and the engine doesn't accelerate quite as well. Then, with a bit more throttle the vacuum drops enough to open the valve and that enrichens the fuel mix such that the engine has a new life. Make note of when that happens on the gauge and you'll know when the valve opens.
You don't happen to have the part number for the deeper economizer valve cover that was used on the Motorcraft 2150 with the 2-stage economizer valve, do you?
That is why I love this site. You never know what you are going to learn next.
The correct answer is "I dunno". That's 'cause I don't know what the following part # looks like. But EOTZ 9930-B looks to be the guy for the original carbs both of you had, and they supposedly had 2-stage valves.
HOWEVER, this site shows a TSB for the 2150 in Canadian F/L/M products, and say that cover is one that requires external vacuum. And, by the way, this page on my site explains how power valves work and discusses the external-vacuum covers: 2150 Internal Systems - ???Gary's Garagemahal
And, as luck would have it, one of the two codes you gave (4-53L-R10 & 4-53L-R11) is the right one for your truck, although we won't know which one for sure. However, both use carb E4TE-AMA and component list 95.2AK. And, that's the info I posted on the previous page as using jets 51F. And, the way I read the catalog, your carb should take the same power valve as Rick's carb - the CE-132.
Excellent! Glad you were able to help me solve this - now I can compare this info with what's in the carb. I know the PV was replaced on the last rebuild so who knows what is in there now, if it's even right.
Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
As for when the valve opens, you tell with a vacuum gauge and driving, or pull the valve and read the numbers or paint dots on it - if they exist. To do it by driving, hook up a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum. As you drive, not sit in the driveway, the vacuum will drop as you give the engine more throttle. At some point the air/fuel ratio starts getting weak and the engine doesn't accelerate quite as well. Then, with a bit more throttle the vacuum drops enough to open the valve and that enrichens the fuel mix such that the engine has a new life. Make note of when that happens on the gauge and you'll know when the valve opens.
So I'm wondering if the wrong, or even a faulty PV will cause the issue I'm having. I have somewhat decent acceleration in 1st gear but if I'm cruising around in 3rd gear and want to accelerate a little bit (now I know I can't floor it in 3rd and expect a surge of power), I have like no power whatsoever.
I guess I need to take the thing apart first and figure out what I've got but I'd really like to solve this freaking issue. I finally have the engine "running" good, now I'd like to get it driving good...
Thanks, Gary, for all your help in decoding all of my info and figuring out what I've got!
The wrong PV and/or jetting can cause that problem - to a point. I have a listing of power valves here: 2150 Power Valves - ???Gary's Garagemahal. And you'll see that some valves don't open until 2 - 3" of vacuum, which takes STANDING on the throttle in higher gears. So, if you are jetted too lean and have a PV that opens at a very low vacuum you'll have poor power until you get the throttle open pretty wide.
The wrong PV and/or jetting can cause that problem - to a point. I have a listing of power valves here: 2150 Power Valves - ???Gary's Garagemahal. And you'll see that some valves don't open until 2 - 3" of vacuum, which takes STANDING on the throttle in higher gears. So, if you are jetted too lean and have a PV that opens at a very low vacuum you'll have poor power until you get the throttle open pretty wide.
Ok, makes sense.
One last question. You mention I may need to use the same PV as Rick, but when I look at the image you posted of the part numbers for the Valves, my carb tag wasn't there, just the E4TE-AFA. Is there a continuation on the "next page" of the parts catalog?
I have a parts book at home, I suppose I can just look when I get out of work. Just wondering in the mean time.