To start Ill go with what i have replaced and tested- 1st-new ignition coil 2nd- replaced ecc with numbers matching. 3rd- tested power to coil on pos with dmm and neg side with test light. while cranking it flashes and stays on when no cranking. 4th- tested icm with tfi-iv tester and that showed fine.
I have been fighting this issue for a couple weeks now. The truck is aking up space in the garage and i really need it for work. Anyone have any ideas?

 

How do you know you're not getting spark? All 8 cylinders?
Will the engine turn over when you crank it?
Have you checked out the distributor cap and rotor button?

 

I pulled the wire off the center wire off the cap and used a test light. I have pulled cap and cleaned cap and rotor.

 

That tells you right there you should have spark out of the coil. Now it's time to verify it is getting to the distributor and out to the plugs.

 

Does the engine turn over?

 

^ Same question.

 

No its not lighting up with the coil wire. It's getting power into the coil with the pip signal and the key on. It's has no spark out of the coil.

 

Look at Post#1...."while cranking it flashes and stays on when no cranking."

 

New coil does not mean a good coil.

Good info here: http://www.aa1car.com/library/ignition_coils.htm

Check the coil secondary resistance.

 

And yes the motor does crank over.

 

I was talking about the neg side of coil. Or the pip signal. The negative side is on all of the time. While I crank it flashes.

 

That tell you there is power through the coil. The primary wiring is good.


That indicates the buffered PIP signal is triggering the coil On/Off. The PIP signal is buffered by the computer before it goes to the Ignition Control Module. The fact you get flashing indicates that circuity is intact. To me it appears to be a bad coil (secondary winding) if you cannot get spark out of it. Perhaps your tester is bad?

You can also validate the theory above by momentarily grounding the negative side of the coil while power is applied, you should get a spark out of the coil.

 

My tester has worked with all of the other tests that I have used it for it has worked so I don't think that the tester is bad.

 

What are you using to test for spark? A test light and a DVM are good for low voltage applications. Not so for high voltage.

Something like this is really handy for testing spark:

 

So after I got home today I changed the coil(Again). Now I'm getting spark. Just have to get it timed and get this old girl going again.